Work Sharp 3000 Wide blade attachment

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Forum topic by David Craig posted 01-07-2012 11:12 AM 5067 views 9 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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David Craig

2137 posts in 3075 days

01-07-2012 11:12 AM

Topic tags/keywords: ws 3000 work sharp 3000 wide blade attachment sharpening jig sharpening

I have read a number of postings on here in regards to the WS 3000 lately. Opinions vary and my intention is not to change anyone’s mind regarding the tool. My post here is mostly in regards to the Wide blade attachment and the range of advice and concerns that seems to have been raised regarding it.

I had already purchased the table before stumpynubs had put together a very creative video offering an alternative in a previous thread. If you haven’t already purchased the attachment, it might prove beneficial to check it out. If you have the table and are stuck, then what follows might help.

Leveling the table - I have heard some interesting comments regarding the ability to make the table portion of the attachment co-planar. I have read in a few spots where Work Sharp support had been engaged when customers were unable to get the table co-planar and the response seemed to be that it was not necessary to make the table co-planar as long as it is level with the sanding surface. Now I have no intention in slamming the abilities or character of the individuals dispensing this information, I just do not agree with it. Here is a picture of the table -

Despite the bad quality of the image, one can see there there are four corners of a table, each corner raised or lowered by leveling screws. Aside from using a dial indicator and making adjustments based on multiple readings, I do not see how one can easily level the table with the plates when it is hovering over the sharpening area. This tool is designed for quick setup and repeatability and that requires the table to be co-planar.

When checking the reasons why the table would not easily set lower in the slots it fits into, I believe the issue is related to the bolts being just shy of the proper length. The table is adjusted by two nuts that slide into slots and two bolts that attach between the nuts and the slots. The bolts are just a little short which causes the table to stop shy of being co-planar. I resolved this by retracting all the leveling screws and laying a flat board over the table and sharpening area and using a soft faced ball peen hammer to tap the table in position. Please note the word TAP. No 3 lb. sledges were used in the allignment of the table.

At this point, the table was co-planar to the existing sanding sleeves and only mild adjustments with the leveling screws were required when different discs and abrassives were used.

Setting the bevel angle

When you look at your roller gauge, on the top there will be little rubber feet. Take them off ASAP. They are only there for shipping purposes and will only cause errors in determining beveling angle when you set up the jig. Lay the gauge upside down in the slots created for it in the jig and set your cutter bevel up in the gauge. There are angle settings on the left and on the right. When using the yellow digits, rest your blade on the plastic separators. If you use the white numbers, set the blade down on the floor of the jig, making sure the blade is pressed against which ever area the blade rests. The arrow on the metal pin that is used as a stop on the angle is pointed away from you when setting the intiial bevel, and pointed towards you when you set a micro-bevel angle.

Not the best photo of the process, it was difficult to try to hold a square…welll…square when taking a pic with the other hand. But I do keep a small 6” combination square on hand to make sure the blade is square, on both sides, inside the jig. If there is any skew, I go back and reset the angle again.

Other Observations

1. Always check the table for co-planar between grits and wheel changes. These can sometimes cause shifts. Any shift will change the degree of the bevel or skew the blade.

2. Lap the back of the blade on all grits before putting it in the jig. Do not take the blade out of the jig until using all the grits. There is enough exposure in the jig to lightly lap the back edge on each grit to remove burrs. Frequently removing and reinserting could cause minor bevel adjustments that will make the sharpening process run much longer than necessary.

3. When running the jig over the sandpaper, if you notice one hand getting hot while the other is still warm, the table is not co-planar. Sharpening causes heat transference to the blade. Uneven transference means the blade is not being sharpened evenly. Stop sharpening and immedately check the table against the sanding disk.

Hope some of this proves helpful for anyone experiencing issues with the worksharp attachment.


-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

9 replies so far

View b2rtch's profile


4851 posts in 3015 days

#1 posted 01-07-2012 01:35 PM

David ,
Thank you for all this information.
I have worksharp 3000 but I rarely use it because of the cost, I use scrary sharpening with sand paper. I was thinking about switching to diamond stones when my stock of sand paper is exhausted because again of the cost. ( a diamond stone last your life time)
I saw stumpynubs’ video, it sounds very interesting and I might modify my 3000 like he modified his, then I might use it more often and then also use your instructions.
Happy New Year.

-- Bert

View ellen35's profile


2734 posts in 3399 days

#2 posted 01-07-2012 02:04 PM

Thanks for the info. My wide blade attachment arrived in the mail yesterday. I’ll be printing this post and bringing it to my shop.

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 3162 days

#3 posted 01-07-2012 03:37 PM

Excellent post, David. maybe this will give me encouragement to try my wide blade attachment again. Its just been collecting dust lately although I still use the ws3000.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4170 posts in 3131 days

#4 posted 01-07-2012 04:48 PM

I will put this in my favorites. Haven’t tried the attachment yet, but I have it. I use the WS3000 regularly for chisels, however.

Have a good one…........

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View rustynails's profile


744 posts in 2495 days

#5 posted 01-07-2012 05:14 PM

I will keep this in mind when I install mine (haven’t got to it yet) thanks for the tips.

View ACP's profile


32 posts in 3178 days

#6 posted 01-07-2012 05:50 PM

Good Tips! I’ve been watching all the posts here with great interest regarding this tool. It is my primary sharpening system and I use the wide blade attachment almost exclusively. I’ve just been using a ruler and checking it across the front and diagonal but I may try your leveling technique. I have also thought about taking out the disc retaining nut and retracting the leveling screws all the way and loosening the horizontal screws that lock in your setting. Then I was going to turn it all upside down on my table saw, a known flat, and then tighten the horizontal screws before flipping it and then advance the leveling screws to bottom. I’ll try that later today and let you know how it works. It can be finicky but when set it adds a lot to your capability.

I also got a new glass disc the other day and added a fourth by taking the leather off my leather hone. The leather hone was worthless. I kept the leather for handstropping stuff, but the disc is for sandpaper now. I also went to the automotive store and bought 400, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 wet/dry sandpaper. I cut it to size using a disc and my marking knife and then used 3M 044 spray adhesive to put it on the disc. It works great and at .30 a sheet it is much cheaper than the WS stock paper. I also used the inside of a cereal box with the leather hones green crayon for my knew hone. Much stiffer and less chance of dubbing the edge.

View Gene Labbe's profile

Gene Labbe

3 posts in 2768 days

#7 posted 03-11-2012 07:54 PM

Thanks for the post David. I’ve been struggling with sharpening in general, and the WS 3000’s table in particular, for a long time. One thing I noticed during my trials is that the far end of the table tends to lift as the horizontal screws are tightened.

Has anyone had issues with blade slippage in the honing jig? How tight does this thing need to be? As I stated in the beginning of this post, I’m having major issues with sharpening. I’m embarrassed to say that I spent my entire Saturday (yesterday) TRYING to sharpen a single plane blade on my WS, to no avail. I never get to the edge of the blade. I had similar issues using water stones, with both the Veritas MK II jig and an Eclipse style jig. I know the problem must be with me, but I cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong. Very frustrating.

-- Gene, Tuscaloosa, AL

View Jason9102983's profile


4 posts in 1018 days

#8 posted 09-17-2015 03:39 AM

My wide blade adapter was unable to go low enough form my taste so I modified it to go level with the glass platters.

While using the my new Veritas MK II jig I had uneven beveling while sharpening but it wasn’t consistently off which had me confused until I put a straight edge across the table. The darn thing was concave. With the eclipse honing guide the wheel was small enough to still stay within the dipped section and stayed fairly consistent, however the much wider wheel on the MK II was riding in and out of the dip. I am lapping the plate now.

I contacted the manufacturer, after a bit of a runaround they are sending a replacement. Hopefully it is flat. The shelf is really expensive for what it is and most don’t want the guide that is included. Had a feeling I’d be better off making a shelf for it but was wanting something metal and easy. I was very disappointed.

View Jason9102983's profile


4 posts in 1018 days

#9 posted 09-26-2015 03:00 AM

I got the replacement table and it is better, however when putting a straight edge across diagonally there is still a noticeable dip. Haas anybody else had the same issue?

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