|Forum topic by David Craig||posted 933 days ago||2199 views||5 times favorited||7 replies|
933 days ago
I have read a number of postings on here in regards to the WS 3000 lately. Opinions vary and my intention is not to change anyone’s mind regarding the tool. My post here is mostly in regards to the Wide blade attachment and the range of advice and concerns that seems to have been raised regarding it.
I had already purchased the table before stumpynubs had put together a very creative video offering an alternative in a previous thread. If you haven’t already purchased the attachment, it might prove beneficial to check it out. If you have the table and are stuck, then what follows might help.
Leveling the table - I have heard some interesting comments regarding the ability to make the table portion of the attachment co-planar. I have read in a few spots where Work Sharp support had been engaged when customers were unable to get the table co-planar and the response seemed to be that it was not necessary to make the table co-planar as long as it is level with the sanding surface. Now I have no intention in slamming the abilities or character of the individuals dispensing this information, I just do not agree with it. Here is a picture of the table -
Despite the bad quality of the image, one can see there there are four corners of a table, each corner raised or lowered by leveling screws. Aside from using a dial indicator and making adjustments based on multiple readings, I do not see how one can easily level the table with the plates when it is hovering over the sharpening area. This tool is designed for quick setup and repeatability and that requires the table to be co-planar.
When checking the reasons why the table would not easily set lower in the slots it fits into, I believe the issue is related to the bolts being just shy of the proper length. The table is adjusted by two nuts that slide into slots and two bolts that attach between the nuts and the slots. The bolts are just a little short which causes the table to stop shy of being co-planar. I resolved this by retracting all the leveling screws and laying a flat board over the table and sharpening area and using a soft faced ball peen hammer to tap the table in position. Please note the word TAP. No 3 lb. sledges were used in the allignment of the table.
At this point, the table was co-planar to the existing sanding sleeves and only mild adjustments with the leveling screws were required when different discs and abrassives were used.
Setting the bevel angle
When you look at your roller gauge, on the top there will be little rubber feet. Take them off ASAP. They are only there for shipping purposes and will only cause errors in determining beveling angle when you set up the jig. Lay the gauge upside down in the slots created for it in the jig and set your cutter bevel up in the gauge. There are angle settings on the left and on the right. When using the yellow digits, rest your blade on the plastic separators. If you use the white numbers, set the blade down on the floor of the jig, making sure the blade is pressed against which ever area the blade rests. The arrow on the metal pin that is used as a stop on the angle is pointed away from you when setting the intiial bevel, and pointed towards you when you set a micro-bevel angle.
Not the best photo of the process, it was difficult to try to hold a square…welll…square when taking a pic with the other hand. But I do keep a small 6” combination square on hand to make sure the blade is square, on both sides, inside the jig. If there is any skew, I go back and reset the angle again.
1. Always check the table for co-planar between grits and wheel changes. These can sometimes cause shifts. Any shift will change the degree of the bevel or skew the blade.
2. Lap the back of the blade on all grits before putting it in the jig. Do not take the blade out of the jig until using all the grits. There is enough exposure in the jig to lightly lap the back edge on each grit to remove burrs. Frequently removing and reinserting could cause minor bevel adjustments that will make the sharpening process run much longer than necessary.
3. When running the jig over the sandpaper, if you notice one hand getting hot while the other is still warm, the table is not co-planar. Sharpening causes heat transference to the blade. Uneven transference means the blade is not being sharpened evenly. Stop sharpening and immedately check the table against the sanding disk.
Hope some of this proves helpful for anyone experiencing issues with the worksharp attachment.
-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.