Best Way to Transfer Design From Computer to Wood

A DIY CNC Router! Lol.

Print out on paper attach with spray adhesive, trace with exacto then carve. Just a thought.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow!

One option would be to print out the design on paper and apply it to your wood with a light coat of spray adhesive. If you tear away the paper while carving/routing, apply another piece of paper.

OK, so funny, DIYaholic…. you LOLd your suggestion, but I am totally going to make that CNC router… after I am done with the current project. How hard could it be, right?

DIY CNC Router: http://buildyourcnc.com/default.aspx

-- Steve, Michigan - "Every piece of work is a self portrait of the person who accomplished it - autograph your work with excellence!" - Author unknown

I did not want to OFFEND anyone’s sensibilities!!!

Have you checked out www.cnczone.com ? a GREAT site for anything cnc, metalworking, woodworking and even some other stuff. I plan on building a 3’ x 4’ moving gantry router, once my basement shop is up & running and the budget will allow, CNCs can (but don’t have to) get expensive!

Do/will you have a build log of your CNC router? Inquiring minds want to know!

Good luck with your carving.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow!

I think I remember reading somewhere that laser or toner based photocopies, not inkjet, will somewhat transfer to wood with medium to medium-high heat, like clothes iron or a heat transfer tool that comes with some wood burning kits. never tried it myself, but a $0.25 xerox and the wife’s iron, might be worth a shot.

If other members think it would be interesting, sure I will post a build log.

Seems like a very interesting project, and if don right and well, potential to make some $$ doing custom engravings…

Has anyone else attempted a CNC router build?

@casual1carpenter – I will try your suggestion tonight.

-- Steve, Michigan - "Every piece of work is a self portrait of the person who accomplished it - autograph your work with excellence!" - Author unknown

There are a number of folks who have posted shop made cnc units on Ljs just search in under the Ljs search button.

Like this

http://lumberjocks.com/search_results?cx=016283335483199634424%3A4na88symhay&cof=FORID%3A9&safe=high&q=CNC+build&sa.x=6&sa.y=12

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Do you have an LCD projector? I use one to transfer drawings to sheets of ply for holiday lawn ornaments that I cut out with the jig saw. Just project the image, trace with a sharpie, then get busy with the jig saw and sander, paint and detailing is sort of like a kid using a coloring book at that point…

-- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations!

Hmmm, no LCD projector, but also a very good method. Thanks for the input. I wonder if I can borrow one from work? :)

-- Steve, Michigan - "Every piece of work is a self portrait of the person who accomplished it - autograph your work with excellence!" - Author unknown

spray on adhesive

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

You might have difficulty finding it, but carbon or graphite paper still work. Staples had some. I use either that or spray adhesive, depending on how complex the design is. I haven’t had much success with the iron-on method, but I haven’t purchased one of the special transfer irons either! You do have to reverse-print your design if doing the iron-on, depending on the design.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mpounders1.blogspot.com

a little different than what you’re wanting to do, but still a cool technique:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/52249

If I’m carving from a computer drawing, I will print actual size and glue it right to the face of the board I am carving. 3M’s Spray 90 adhesive works well for this, as well as, watered down white glue.

Any flat areas in that remain uncarved in the final product need the adhesive sanded off, but carvings are typically sanding-intensive anyways.

If you don’t want adhesive on the face, you could trace your paper pattern over carbon transfer paper to get the drawing on your work-piece.

The only better way I am aware of, is to transfer via g-code and CNC router. (Which several have already mentioned.)

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

Try this. Print on the veneer, glue, nail etc. to what you are going to carve, carve, good to go.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/52249

-- Government does not solve problems; it subsidizes them.

OK, I ended up going to the office store and grabbing a set of “iron on” transfer paper…

It worked OK. Essentially sticks the design to the wood (mostly). There’s a bit to clean up and sand, but it did essentially what I needed it to do.

I started defining the outline of the design last night (Scottish clan crest) and started carving out the easy bits. I am new to carving altogether, so this should be interesting…

Thanks everyone for your input. After this project, I am going to start the CNC

-- Steve, Michigan - "Every piece of work is a self portrait of the person who accomplished it - autograph your work with excellence!" - Author unknown