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Forum topic by richgreer posted 01-04-2012 07:19 PM 6890 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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richgreer

4541 posts in 2534 days


01-04-2012 07:19 PM

First, let me say, that I really don’t like to use wood filler. When I use wood filler, it is because I did not get the tight joint I was striving for. Nonetheless, I need to use at least a little wood filler on many of my projects.

Originally, I used a brand called Famowood. I didn’t like the fact that I usually had to stir it before using it and I didn’t like the fact that it tended to dry out in the can quite quickly. What I liked is that it dryed very quickly after being applied. I could sand it within 30 minutes of when I applied it.

My second brand was Elmer’s, which comes in a plastic tube. It does not have to be stirred. I think it is a little easier to work with. It also dries out in the tube, but at a slower rate than the Famowood. After applying it, it takes at least an hour before you can sand.

Lastly, I tried a can of MinWax. I found it hard to apply and I had to wait until the next day to sand it. I don’t know fast it will dry out in the can since I just bought my first can of it. Note – MinWax calls their product “Wood Puddy” as opposed to “Wood Filler”.

At this point in time, Elmer’s is my favorite of the 3.

How about you?

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.


27 replies so far

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

1406 posts in 2445 days


#1 posted 01-04-2012 07:22 PM

I am not a huge fan of Elmer’s, but have not tried the other two. I have used Timbermate and quite like it. It’s water-based, so if it dries out in the can, mix in some water. If it freezes, thaw it in the mircrowave and mix in some water if necessary. It works very nicely.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

930 posts in 1815 days


#2 posted 01-04-2012 07:30 PM

I use Pl Woodpatch which is very similiar to the famowood, cept it’s just better…

You don’t have to stir it as much though, if you store the cans upside down, flipping over a few minutes before you use it. They are a two part mixture that seperates in the can. The heavier filler will settle to the bottom, while the lighter catalyst will settle to the top, when you flip the can, it causes the two to re-mix by their natural settling motion.

Bad joints aren’t the only reason to use wood fillers, sometimes it’s good to fill those defects in the boards, or just flat out highlight what you know you’ll miss when sanding.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4541 posts in 2534 days


#3 posted 01-04-2012 07:44 PM

TCC – You are right about needing wood filler for applications other that joints. Just yesterday a pocket hole screw went all the way through the wood. I backed it out, replaced the screw with a shorter one and used wood filler to fill the hole.

It was not a typical joint issue but I was still using filler to hide a mistake.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Dan's profile

Dan

3630 posts in 2340 days


#4 posted 01-04-2012 07:54 PM

Rich, is Minwax “Wood Puddy” the same as the Minwax “Wood Filler”?

I am pretty sure they are different but I have never used the Wood Puddy so I don’t know.
I use the Minwax Wood Filler and I find it to work rather well. It will bleed into the wood so I usually tape off around the area I need to fill. Dry time will depend on the amount that you use but I know the last time I used it was to hide a bunch of nail holes and I was able to sand it after a couple hours.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8236 posts in 2888 days


#5 posted 01-04-2012 07:58 PM

Another satisfied Timbermate user, here.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4448 posts in 3420 days


#6 posted 01-04-2012 07:58 PM

TimberMate is great stuff, and beats the heck outa MinWax.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3678 days


#7 posted 01-04-2012 08:27 PM

Believe it or not, I use all three of the types you mention, Jim. I find they all have pros and cons… it just depends on the particular situation.

The Elmer’s also comes in a tub, and you can add a little water when it starts to dry out.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

856 posts in 2714 days


#8 posted 01-04-2012 08:29 PM

TimberMate.

Pricey but well worth it.

c

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2037 days


#9 posted 01-04-2012 08:32 PM

I’ve been using water based famowood and it works great for me. No drying issues for me, but even if it did, you can add a bit of water to renew it.
I plan to try the timbermate very soon.

I used elmer’s a long while back on painted projects and it worked fine. Availability is it’s strong suit.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Don Johnson's profile

Don Johnson

651 posts in 2241 days


#10 posted 01-04-2012 09:19 PM

Over in the UK when I was a lad, THE product was Brummer

It is still around, and (before the tin dries out) is very effective and fast drying – in minutes not hours.

I think it needs cellulose thinners – or something similar – to moisten it, but I await correction.

Certainly, water ruins it!

-- Don, Somerset UK, http://www.donjohnson24.co.uk

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2528 days


#11 posted 01-04-2012 09:49 PM

I use Famowood and will sometimes mix colors to get the shade I need. A bit of Acetone stirred into the can brings it back to like new.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View Don Niermann  's profile

Don Niermann

214 posts in 3432 days


#12 posted 01-04-2012 09:52 PM

Hide glue and sawdust

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

2657 posts in 2644 days


#13 posted 01-04-2012 09:57 PM

I use either DAP Plastic Wood, or just regular Titebond glue mixed with sawdust (sometimes I just smear the dust in with my finger after spreading glue over a crack/gap/etc).

-- Allen, Colorado

View Dennis Fletcher's profile

Dennis Fletcher

467 posts in 2514 days


#14 posted 01-04-2012 10:00 PM

Hmmm, I prefer the Elmer’s wood filler that you get in the little canisters. It goes on easily, dries quickly and doesn’t seem to dry out in the container.

I often use it when i do “paintable” trim work, where I just need to fill in holes or such. I have also used it for repairs, when a chunk of wood has been broken off. I will glue it back on and reshape the area with it, then sand it to the correct shape.

Works really well for me.

The minwax wood putty I use doesn’t get hard. It is used to fill in after the stain and such is on. It is meant to cover up nail holes and such and blend in with the color.

-- http://www.ahomespecialist.net, Making design and application one. †

View Woodwrecker's profile

Woodwrecker

3925 posts in 3035 days


#15 posted 01-04-2012 10:09 PM

Minwax wood filler.
I don’t like using it either, but sometimes it’s unavoidable.
Good topic Rich.

-- Eric, central Florida

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