Sliding Tablesaw vs Cabinet Saw

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by walkerwg posted 01-03-2012 10:52 PM 9918 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View walkerwg's profile


6 posts in 1757 days

01-03-2012 10:52 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

I am in the market for a new saw. I’ve owned a POS big box store contractor saw for the past 7yrs and am finally fed up with it. While in art school I daily used a Unisaw and enjoyed the fact that I could achieve accurate cuts with it time after time. My search has taken me towards either the Hammer K3 lineup and the huge sale on right now or getting a Powermatic/Sawstop Cabinet Saw. To those that have experience with sliders, can you review your experiences with them, those with PM’s or Sawstops well there are a great many reviews already posted on those already I know I’ve read a ton of them but humor me please with your thoughts. Thank you for responding Bill

11 replies so far

View childress's profile


841 posts in 2963 days

#1 posted 01-03-2012 11:02 PM

I got a deposit on a new K3 right now. In my opinion, a cabinet saw doesn’t even come close….

-- Childress Woodworks

View StumpyNubs's profile


6830 posts in 2222 days

#2 posted 01-03-2012 11:41 PM

Get the cabinet saw and then hose down the floor and turn off the heat so it ices up. Then you’ll have a sliding-cabinet saw!

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications:

View Loren's profile


8163 posts in 3069 days

#3 posted 01-04-2012 01:17 AM

I you have the budget and the space to get a slider, it makes so
many important table saw cuts easier and setups for many cuts
significantly faster.

That said, a slider can be difficult to resell if you tire of woodworking
and larger ones are not so easy to move either in the shop or to
a new shop. Significant bargains can be found on larger sliders
hogging up whole garages or a corner of a warehouse, unused.
Many big sliders get bought on credit and resold for a fraction, really
to the first guy with some cash and ability to take the saw away.

You won’t regret having a slider as long as you do woodworking
actively. I’d just recommend assessing your commitment to the
craft accurately since they can be hard to resell for anywhere near
what you paid when new. Just like cars, if buying new certain
brands hold their value a bit better than others.

If I had the space I’d get a used Altendorf probably. They are
huge saws that take lots of room, but the quality is way up there.

Holz-Her, Martin, Felder, are also excellent full-sized saws. A bit
of a step down would be the various Italian saws like SCMI,
Paolini, EMA, and so on. Then there’s Robland and so forth,
on which you can find some bargains.

View jusfine's profile


2405 posts in 2347 days

#4 posted 01-04-2012 03:33 AM

If you don’t want to go whole-hog with a slider, you can add an Excalibur sliding table to your Powermatic or Unisaw, etc.

I have had one on my Unisaw for the last 15 years or more, wouldn’t be without it!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View rum's profile


148 posts in 2007 days

#5 posted 01-05-2012 04:57 AM

Either will be vastly better than what you have.

I recently stepped up to a slider with a Hammer B3, I would concur with Loren that if you have the time/energy there are some decent used deals out there, check and google around for others (if you’re up to that :D). On the flip side the guys at Felder have been great to work with and answered all my questions promptly so I’m pretty happy to have bought new.

The sliders do take a TON of space compared to a traditional (even the “smaller” 79” hammer I have is a beast). I spent a fair bit of time doing mock layouts in my shop before I committed and still under estimated the actual effective footprint some.

Overall, worth the price delta? Hard to say, depends on what you do :D if I could fit it, I’d have both, since I can’t.. I’m keeping the slider until I can.

cr1: nice ZCI, good job there! It would be interesting to see a picture of your chainsaw slider setup. I would also concur – make your own shoe, the hammer one sits to far back from the edge of the slider for my liking.

View Logan Windram's profile

Logan Windram

289 posts in 1883 days

#6 posted 01-05-2012 05:33 AM

robland sliders have a 20% VAT on top of the price of the saw…. Lol

View a1Jim's profile


115177 posts in 2998 days

#7 posted 01-05-2012 06:12 AM

It’s going to make a big difference what kind of work your going to do. In my opinion a slider is a good tool but only if you have the room and the budget. From my experience companies that have sliders specialize in cabinet work. If you have used a good quality cabinet saw and like it ,that’s what I would suggest you go with,say the 5hp sawstop.

-- Custom furniture

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


930 posts in 1776 days

#8 posted 01-05-2012 06:40 AM

Sliders are great, in some circumstances, in others they aren’t. They’re really different tools and have different applications.

Sliders are good with sheet goods, but they do take up alot of space and making ripping long lengths ackward.

Tables are great for ripping long lengths but tend to be less than ideal for cross cutting long lengths, such as sheet goods.

My thought is though, you can pretty much work around not having a slider, it’s really difficult to get around not having a tablesaw.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Loren's profile


8163 posts in 3069 days

#9 posted 01-05-2012 06:54 AM

I bought my slider used, and it’s not a big one; it crosscuts a
sheet of ply on the slider but won’t rip one as the big sliders
will. I don’t need the 52” rip fence it has and would be just fine
with 25” or 30”, which would reduce the footprint of
the machine considerably. When you have a slider you don’t
need the big rip capacity much since full sheets are halved on
the slider and pantry sides are squared on it too. The rip fence
does give you a working stop to the right as well as the left
of the blade, which is an interesting way to work with stops.

I pivot the machine on a pallet jack. It goes one way for
crosscuts and I just turn the saw about 70 degrees if I want
to make long rips on it. The sliding carriage reduces or eliminates
the need for outfeed support for the offcut site of rip cuts
since the infeed support table moves into into an outfeed
support position effortlessly during the cut.

Still, nothing less than a full-sized slider is a full-sized horizontal
panel saw. That’s why I am building a vertical panel saw for
full sheet breakdowns and straightline ripping long boards.
A tracksaw can serve a similar function.

View walkerwg's profile


6 posts in 1757 days

#10 posted 01-09-2012 04:51 AM

After touching the K3 and Excalibur attached to a Unisaw at the Baltimore woodworking show I am definitely getting the K3 79×48. I also work with steel so making jigs and holddowns is not a problem. CR1 do you have any other pics of your K3/jigs and whatnot? Thanks guys for all your input.

View Donges72's profile


2 posts in 346 days

#11 posted 11-14-2015 04:54 PM

I have an old Delta contractors saw that us strictly a rip saw. I use a Festool track saw to cut down sheet goods, and a Makita miter saw for crosscutting,

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics