triton vs. lift

The Milwaukee routers have a hole in the base that allows
adjustment through the table. Simple, inexpensive solution -
a fixed-base router with a lift system built in.

The answer is first precision and, second, quick bit changes.

At one time, I used a Porter-Cable 890 in my router table and it allowed me to adjust my router height from above the table, but it was a very crude and imprecise height adjustment. Furthermore, bringing the router up for an above the table bit exchange was a tedious process.

I bought a Woodpecker PRL-V2. What a difference!! Precise, micro adjustment of the bit height is a breeze. Furthermore, I can pop the router to the top, change the bit quickly and drop the router back into position in only a few seconds. I’m ready to race anyone on bit changes.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

Thanks guys..
Rich, soo the triton or milwaukee doesnt do the same thing ?

-- Bueno...Nacho..

I’ve got the Triton in my router table and I’ve used the popular lifts. My Trion has a tremendous amount of slop. It’s pretty easy to overcome; you just have to make sure the machine totally drops. My choice is clearly a router raiser with a big fat PC motor in it. But the price gets up there pretty quick.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

The Triton does the same things. The bit height changing might not be as precise as a good lift, but it’s pretty darn close. The bit changing is great. I have a Triton in my table and figured I’d upgrade to a different router and lift if needed. So far it’s been great and kept me from lusting after a lift. At $200 the 3hp Triton is a steal right now.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

Thanks.. good stuff, trying to avoid cheap being expensive and wanting to upgrade.

-- Bueno...Nacho..

On a random sidenote, I’ve come to the opinion that precision/repeatability of the fence (e.g. Incra system) is more useful than precision (over a decent enough router e.g. Triton) of the bit height, at least for me. My dollars went a lot farther investing in the Incra router fence system rather than a lift.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

HI. About 5 years ago I decided to purchase a router lift and table to supplement my plunge routers , after a few months of research… I fell in love with the Bench Dog 40-031/7518 ProMax Left with a Porter Cable adjustable speed router. The Bench Dog allows the motor to go fully above the table, alas it requires the removal of the bit insert.. two small screws, but worht the extra effort. The micro adjustment is just awesome and the fence system makes me very happy. The biggest issue is the huge price tag, but I got the top extension and I have not regretted it for a moment. The table does things I just can not accomplish for small tasks, special moments and long dado runs.

-- ~ Eric P Jorgenson: Jorgenson Design

I have used the Jessem router lifts (the original lift) for many years, well made, easy to adjust, I would highly recommend them!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

Thanks guys..Bertha’s mention of the word “slop” rings loud..

-- Bueno...Nacho..

^Well, perhaps I should have used a different term. Here’s mine:

I’ve got a digital meter on it and I always use test cuts. Once the lever is locked, it’s not going anywhere. I think the “slop” is more when you’ve got the shaft unlocked. If you’re careful that the motor is seated well with the lever unlocked, you shouldn’t have a problem. I’ve got a lot of routers and this one is my favorite so far under the table. At 3+hp and soft start, it’s plenty powerful.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I have a jessem master Lift and a Jessem Master Lift II. Both are great and precise with no slop. I have a Bosch 1617 in one and a PC 3815 in the other.

-- Every step of any project should be considered your masterpiece if you want the finished product to reflect the quality of your work. http://www.FineArtBoxes.com

I have a triton in my Table.
It’s OK, I can reach under and operate the plunge and I get along just fine. But my table is built with all that in mind.

A down side to the plunge Triton is the base itself. It’s not real sturdy and Often under heavy loading I can see deflection. It does have a whole inch more than many routers do in the travel so that may be why. I should check it and see of the travel they claim includes the half inch or so it uses to lock toe collet. That would put the 2” travel to something shorter in practice. A really good lift might not deflect. But it might be just too much to ask for that kind of sturdiness, I don’t know, I’ve never held any of them in my hands.

But if you have not purchased the Triton yet, I suggest you don’t. It’s not a very good router. It’s shot through with serious flaws, the machining and engineering is not sophisticated nor well thought out.
I paid the Show Price of $190 and if I paid a nickel more I’d feel like a fool.
Here is my review
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2224

There have been improvements to the Triton since I bought mine, but if they are as unsophisticated as the original machine I got, they are probably not all that.

Here are some side by side comparisons of features
http://www.finewoodworking.com/media/RouterTables.pdf

If I were going to replace mine I’d go for the new big dog Milwaukee 5625-20 3-1/2 HP router. It’s made for the table without any lift $250 at amazon
I think ya gotta buy the collets separately

I’d look at the Festertool but for the fact that the company offended me with a snooty arrogant representative, their prices are stupidly high ($825.00) for what you get (you get an enormous vacation and benefits package for some Europeans – that’s what you get), and I don’t give a damn about DC.

Now, if I were working on other people’s homes, I’d probably take the Fersteringtool line seriously because they do DC rather well.

Of course there is always this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7CnVJr332E
Drool Drool Drool
But I like Bench Dog’s mount for the guide posts much better than Woodpeckers

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

The real slop in my Triton router went AWAY when I got the metal gear upgrade. I reviewed that upgrade here:
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1983

Sure, you can spend 2 to 3 times the $179 that I spent to get a router Plus the lift, but why? If you got the big bucks then go for it. If you don’t then this is your best alternative for the money.

After using this router for a while I do have to say the the snazzy 1 1/4in hose DC is a farce. Looks great but not very useful IRL. However, the above table crank is reliable to 1/128in if you refust to do ANY test cuts. ;-)

ON THE OTHER HAND:
The 2 1/4hp Tirton I put in my mortising machine works like a champ and I used an alternative DC system that I developed that collect ~80-90% of the dust.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/56897

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."