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What would you do to fix this?

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Forum topic by 308Gap posted 12-29-2011 12:38 AM 1102 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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308Gap

332 posts in 1750 days


12-29-2011 12:38 AM

I made a bunch of cutting boards for family and friends for xmas. These two boards didn’t measure up so I kept them. Heres my question. How would you fix these so they are usable ? , epoxy fill, or drill and plug with similar wood dowel, or paint it and make a dart board. Both boards are maple and walnut with salad bowl finish.

This first one has bug holes only in the 3/4’’ ripped walnut.

The second board has one knot hole on the back.

More pics here if it helps. http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa207/johnpebley/stuff/

-- Thank You Veterans!


15 replies so far

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5449 posts in 1346 days


#1 posted 12-29-2011 12:45 AM

If you were to drill it and dowel it with the same woods, it would be a functional fix. Doing that or leaving them as is, would be my top 2 choices at this point. Dart board would be pretty far down on my list. Maybe you will get some better suggestions, good luck.

View live4ever's profile

live4ever

983 posts in 1757 days


#2 posted 12-29-2011 12:47 AM

I vote for drilling and doweling each small block of walnut in the same spot – at least that way you keep a pattern. Or mortising if you have a mortiser…

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1324 days


#3 posted 12-29-2011 12:49 AM

Drill and plug with dowels.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Greg..the Cajun Wood Artist's profile

Greg..the Cajun Wood Artist

5264 posts in 2056 days


#4 posted 12-29-2011 12:53 AM

Add my vote to the drill and dowel solution.

-- Each step of every Wood Art project I design and build is considered my masterpieceā€¦ because I want the finished product to reflect the quality and creativeness of my work

View pvwoodcrafts's profile

pvwoodcrafts

226 posts in 2669 days


#5 posted 12-29-2011 02:10 AM

I fill voids with sanded sawdust and saturate with superglue. I have several ziplock bags full of different sanded dust just for that purpose

-- mike & judy western md. www. pvwoodcrafts.com pvwccf1@verizon.net

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

811 posts in 1891 days


#6 posted 12-29-2011 02:17 AM

I made a cutting board in a class and there was a void on the back. The instructor had me fill it with a glue and sawdust mixture and while it never looked perfect, it did fill the void and made that side usable.

View sgtsprout's profile

sgtsprout

69 posts in 1518 days


#7 posted 12-29-2011 06:37 AM

Beautiful boards! Looks like you could plane out the top board; No?
Bottom one seems like best to fill with dowel/plug. Since these are cutting boards your probably using natural finishes so I typically avoid epoxy and that kind of stuff. Anyway that is my 2 cents. Some others may have better ideas.

-- "There are no gains without pains." -Benjamin Franklin

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1102 days


#8 posted 12-29-2011 06:47 AM

First one, re-size and re-finish.

Second one, does the knot go clear through? If so, then there’s a problem, if not, then the hole will not be exposed to meats and will not gather bacteria.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View 308Gap's profile

308Gap

332 posts in 1750 days


#9 posted 12-29-2011 06:48 AM

drill and dowel sounds like the safest way. I also thought of glue and sawdust, but the sald bowl finish wont penetrate the glue. Thanks for the input everyone.

-- Thank You Veterans!

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1102 days


#10 posted 12-29-2011 06:54 AM

Well, if you want to try glue and sawdust.

There is a product called wood cement, you mix this with wood dust and it is usually permeable to finishes and stains.

But a method I came up with for filling cracks and blemishs in aromatic cedar is to get clear trim carpenter’s glue, which is white. Fill the hole with it, take a damp rage and wipe it so that the glue is just below the surface then sand. The glue wasn’t on the top, just the dust, so the cracks did not turn black, so “maybe” a finish would penetrate? It’s kind of hard to tell. Personally I use a butcher block finish so it’s a lil different.

I’m also experimenting with using wood patch on some that I recently made, to see how it will hold up, but I don’t think it comes in purple heart, though it can be tinted or stained.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Furnitude's profile

Furnitude

346 posts in 2254 days


#11 posted 12-30-2011 06:21 AM

I’m in a similar situation. I made a walnut and maple cutting board, and the maple had quite a few little holes from insects. I’m wondering if super glue/sawdust would be safe. The holes are big enough that I am concerned about bacteria.

-- Mitch, http://furnitude.blogspot.com Also blog at http://www.craftsy.com/blog/author/mitch-roberson/

View dannelson's profile

dannelson

151 posts in 1118 days


#12 posted 12-30-2011 04:23 PM

make a jig to cut the pieces out with a trim router and do a inlay patch with the same material /glit—- glue and s**t mixed together doesnt ever come out right .

-- nelson woodcrafters

View 308Gap's profile

308Gap

332 posts in 1750 days


#13 posted 12-30-2011 11:35 PM

Furnitude thats my concern also. I do have an inlay set though…....hmmm. But plugs from the same stock might just fit.

-- Thank You Veterans!

View tom427cid's profile

tom427cid

294 posts in 1218 days


#14 posted 01-02-2012 08:32 AM

How about random shapes in contrasting colors that are let into the surface to create a different effect?
Just an idea.
tom

-- "certified sawdust maker"

View mtn_goat's profile

mtn_goat

11 posts in 1643 days


#15 posted 01-04-2012 06:52 AM

I see your angst. A beautiful board like that is worth an effort to save. I think I would cut out the offending defects out as strips and then try to glue the ends back on, flipping of course to keep the alternating pattern. I cant tell where the second defect is in relation to the board, but A similar strategy would work. Please, let us know how it turns out.

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