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Forum topic by RinnyTin posted 12-28-2011 05:48 PM 2323 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RinnyTin

35 posts in 1278 days


12-28-2011 05:48 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router table power

I am building a cabinet for the Rockler router table I just bought (on sale for $199 plus a $75 gift card!) and would like to mount a safety switch that turns on both the router and a shop vac for dust collection. I’ve seen folks on this forum talking about this one:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8241

but it says it’s rated for 1/2 HP. My router is 2 1/4 HP, so isn’t this a problem?

Thanks in advance!


19 replies so far

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1892 days


#1 posted 12-28-2011 05:52 PM

My 3-1/2 HP Milwaukee router is rated at 15A.

That switch is rated for 16A.

I’d verify the actual current draw of your router, but … you should be okay.

-- -- Neil

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RinnyTin

35 posts in 1278 days


#2 posted 12-28-2011 06:02 PM

@NBeener, thanks for the quick reply. I have the Bosch 1617, 2.25HP, 12 amps. So the HP rating on the switch isn’t relevant then? Although now I’m wondering about triggering the shopvac off the same switch may be a problem.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2367 days


#3 posted 12-28-2011 06:12 PM

don’t get caught up with the HP ratings on those motors – those are universal motors and do not really match up with HP of induction motors which switches are usually rated for – just match up the AMP and Voltage like Neil suggested.

for the router you should be fine with that switch, but it will not support your shop vac as well. it is meant as a 1 tool switch.

If you want to incorporate a shop vac into the switching process you should use something like this which is designed to do just that:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/iVac-Switch-Box/T21636

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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RinnyTin

35 posts in 1278 days


#4 posted 12-28-2011 06:23 PM

@PurpLev, thanks for that. So with this I could I could trigger both from a single switch outside the cabinet, correct?

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1892 days


#5 posted 12-28-2011 06:24 PM

Sorry. I absolutely brain-farted the ShopVac part of your question :-p

PurpLev is right. The auto turn-on outlets are a better choice for what you’re trying to do, although it looks like that iVac comprises TWO 15A circuits that probably require you run each of its two power cords to separate 15A outlets, if the total load of router + ShopVac exceeds 15A (which it quite likely will).

-- -- Neil

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NBeener

4806 posts in 1892 days


#6 posted 12-28-2011 06:25 PM

But … yes … you could use that Grizzly paddle switch to switch the router, which would THEN be plugged into the iVac, along WITH your ShopVac, but … it surely looks like the iVac would HAVE to be plugged into two separate 15A circuits.

In my shop, that’s no big deal, but … you’d need to be sure of how you could accomplish that, in yours :-)

-- -- Neil

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1412 days


#7 posted 12-28-2011 06:31 PM

^Man, Purp, that accessory outlet is cheeeap! I’m I hearing you right that you want a big paddle switch also? I got a big 220V paddle off Amazon for around $40. With Purp’s suggestion, you could get this setup humming for around $80. Can’t beat that.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2367 days


#8 posted 12-28-2011 06:33 PM

I’ll chime in once more just cause I thought about it a bit more (ignorance is bliss).

the switch I linked to will turn on your shopvac WHEN you turn on your tool (router) but you’d still need another switch to turn on your router outside the cabinet so you’d probably need both what I linked to in addition to what you linked to for the ‘proper’ way to handle this as well as running 2 cables on 2 separate breakers (1 for router 15A and one for shopvac 15A).

so that would be the proper way to do this, but I personally have run both router and shopvac (as well as TS and DC) since I only have 1 breaker for my garage. Yes I tripped the breaker many times, but if you must – than you COULD try it although if I had 2 lines in my garage I would use both switches to do it RIGHT.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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RinnyTin

35 posts in 1278 days


#9 posted 12-28-2011 06:40 PM

I’m in my garage with one 20amp circuit. (sad trombone sound). That said I have never tripped the breaker with my miter saw/shop vac combo (and the miter saw alone is rated 15amps) so I think it should be OK. My understanding is that unless you start both tools simultaneously or work the tool extremely hard while blocking the vacuum hose, you are never drawing anywhere near the maximum amperage. I guess I’ll find out! I was planning on a 5 gallon/6.5HP shopvac. Would it pay to use a lower amp shop vac, or will it just not do the job? Thanks guys appreciate the help.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1412 days


#10 posted 12-28-2011 06:45 PM

^waa woo waa, lol. That’s going to be a problem, my friend. I had a 40 amp panel in my shop and added another 60A. I still trip breakers when I’m running everything (mostly electric space heaters). You might be due for a visit from the electrician. It might not be as bad as you think. I thought mine was going to be much more than it was. Good luck!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4524 posts in 1793 days


#11 posted 12-28-2011 06:51 PM

I would discourage you from putting your shop vac on the same switch for 2 reasons: (1) Ideally, you put any two tools running at the same time on separate circuits. Shop vacs can draw a lot of amperage. and (2) Ideally, your shop vac stays on for a couple of seconds after the router shuts down so you can clear the hose.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

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RinnyTin

35 posts in 1278 days


#12 posted 12-28-2011 06:52 PM

@Bertha, it’s definitely on my list, but it’s a standalone garage 50 feet from the house and NJ requires buried cables. My guy said he might be able to thread more AC through the existing conduit, but until he tries he won’t know. So I could be looking at a lot of digging. Maybe in the spring…

View buschywooder's profile

buschywooder

17 posts in 1229 days


#13 posted 12-29-2011 07:08 AM

NBeener….My pop-in-law’s son decided the Craftsman with 1/4” collet in the new Kreg table with lift wasn’t enough so bought the 5625-20 for the Kreg table. Alas, it needs different motor pads than I have. Did you have to buy new pads to get yours installed? RinnyTin, what design are you following for the cabinet? I’m just starting to enclose my Kreg stand, and for sure want a good dust collection box…....have 4” to hook it up to.

-- Dana, Illinois

View ScottN's profile

ScottN

261 posts in 1398 days


#14 posted 12-29-2011 03:18 PM

I built my own. The switch turns the router and the shop vac on at the same time.

-- New Auburn,WI

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1892 days


#15 posted 12-29-2011 04:33 PM

Dana:

If memory serves, my 5625-20, and—eventually—the PRL1 lift—were both pure plug-and-play. No additional purchases required.

-- -- Neil

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