Need Help Heeling (Paralleling) blade on Ridgid R4512 Table Saw

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Forum topic by ChrisK622 posted 12-27-2011 07:35 AM 11590 views 4 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2 posts in 2372 days

12-27-2011 07:35 AM

I am still a novice, but really enjoy woodworking and improving with every new project.
Just purchased my Ridgid R4512 about two months ago and love it. Started a new bookshelf project and noticed my blade is 1/16th out of parallel, measuring from the miter gauge slot. I did as the instruction books says and loosened the 4 bolts on the bottom of the unit and moved the back of the blade until it was square. When I re-tightened the bolts, it went back to the old position.
I tried to adjust my fence, but that did not work too good either. I ripped my wood and am not square. This is concerning me because I was having so much fun and my wife really wants a few projects done.
At the end of the day, I can’t make a square cut.

11 replies so far

View Lifesaver2000's profile


551 posts in 3141 days

#1 posted 12-27-2011 09:14 AM

Hi Chris. I don’t have a 4512, but have a Craftsman 21833. This is a very similar saw, and I believe the adjustment is very similar. I will give you a few points that I have picked up. I can’t promise you can get everything perfect, but I will say that my saw is well within the recommended tolerances as best as I can measure.

First, on the blade to miter slot alignment. On the top of the saw, there are two allen screws recessed into the top. These are the 45 and 90 degree bevel stops. These should be backed off while doing any alignment. The 90 degree one especially has caused a lot of problems for people in preventing them from getting the blade adjusted as far as they need it to go. Backing this off (I don’t remember which way to turn the screw, you will have to check your manual) will allow you plenty of room for adjustment.

Next, be sure you are NOT making your adjustments with the blade at its absolute full height. If you crank the blade all the way up, it will “rack” the blade to a slight angle when the crank handle stops. This isn’t a phenomenon isolated just to this saw though. I was reading the manual for the SawStop professional cabinet saw the other day, and it recommended also that the adjustments not be made with the blade at the full height for the same reason. If it can happen in a $3000+ saw, I don’t think having it in a $450 saw is surprising. I suggest making the adjustments with the blade down about a half inch from maximum, and if you know you will normally only be cutting 3/4 to 8/4 stock, then maybe even adjust it with the blade height at two inches.

When making the adjustment, be sure that you loosen three screws off, and then just slightly loosen the fourth. Even the three loose screws don’t need to be actually backed out loose, just enough to allow movement. That way there isn’t much movement when you tighten them. It might even be useful to slightly go past the zero point in your adjustment, so that when you tighten the screws it moves to where you want.

As for the fence, there is a recent thread about the fence on this saw, you might look there for some hints. I am not sure if the 4512 fence is exactly like mine, but I did not have any trouble adjusting it when I first got the saw, and have never had to readjust it.

Hope some of this helps.

View knotscott's profile


8057 posts in 3404 days

#2 posted 12-27-2011 03:04 PM

Lifesaver’s tips are excellent. When you retighten the trunnion bolts, don’t tighten each one fully one at a time. To prevent unwanted movement, tighten each one a little at a time, progressing towards fully tightening them.

What prevented you from getting the fence aligned with the blade?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ChrisK622's profile


2 posts in 2372 days

#3 posted 12-27-2011 06:45 PM

Thanks. Your advise did the trick and I am back in business.
I wish the world had more people in it that is so willing to help.
Thanks again and will send pictures when done.

View Lifesaver2000's profile


551 posts in 3141 days

#4 posted 12-27-2011 07:08 PM

Great news Chris. Glad to be of help

View kommon_sense's profile


14 posts in 2370 days

#5 posted 12-28-2011 11:35 PM

Great tips! I just purchased a 4512. Finished setting it up last night and found the saw blade is 0.036” out of alignment with the mitre slot. Manual doesn’t mention any of the tips you guys mentioned, so you saved me a lot of headache and frustration!!!

-- Expert Sawdust Maker

View 731Loadmaster's profile


3 posts in 1274 days

#6 posted 10-17-2015 03:49 AM

Thanks guys for all your assistance, however I’m still having a huge problem getting mine to become true. I have done all the items that are in the instructions and I slacked off all but one bolt and that one was loosened. It would appear that the trunnion nearest the access panel are not moving at all, and the one’s father back underneath the front end has room but will not move at all.
My blade is off by an 1/8th of an inch which is incredibly frustrating. I do have the updated model II and have no issues going up or down I just cant get mine lined up to the miter track.

Frustrated in Colorado Springs.

View Kurt T. Kneller's profile

Kurt T. Kneller

126 posts in 1393 days

#7 posted 10-17-2015 04:14 AM

I have a Rigid 2424. I bought it new in the late 90’s. I think it has been a great saw. I can run it with a nickle on it edge. With that said, it is a bear to tune, like most contractor saws. Last year I put a pair of pals on it. They are pretty helpful in adjusting the trunion, however when tightening the bolts, even when alienating sequence, the trunnion would creep ever so slightly at the end. I then put 2-3 steel washers on each bolt and put lithium grease grease between the washers. Man, that did the trick. It would allow the bolts to be fully tightened and allow enough slip so that the trunnion would not get pinched and move before the bolts were tight. Blade is .0005 – .0008 to the miter slot.
That took some time but without the pals and washers I would never expect to be less than .002-.0015

-- Start with ten, end with ten.......

View RobS888's profile


2417 posts in 1874 days

#8 posted 10-17-2015 04:29 AM

How are you trying to move the trunions? I loosened the 2 bolts closest to the back panel and I think the front left. I then used a big clamp and slowly moved it over with tightening and measuring, then retightening. I found that aligning the blade to the left miter gauge and the fence to the right was pretty bad, I had to be sure to align them both on the left. I got very good at aligning them to <.010, but raising or lowering the blade heeled it over toward the fence and bound up any rip cuts.

It used to trip a breaker when it bound up. I used the raise it after lowering the blade to remove backlash, but still it moved. I eventually gave it to the restore and got a sawstop.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View 731Loadmaster's profile


3 posts in 1274 days

#9 posted 10-18-2015 09:53 PM

I finally got it to work! Used the woodworking clamp and got it within eyeshot…tomorrow I’ll have the caliper gauge to fine tune it.
Woodworking time!!!

View MikeSpanky's profile


179 posts in 1392 days

#10 posted 10-19-2015 03:29 AM

Have the same saw. It was out only .035 when I checked it but got worse in a couple of weeks. Found out one of the trunnion bolts was a little loose. I tried using a square but it was not accurate enough. Bought a digital angel gauge and had no trouble at all. I have to do this maintenance routine about every 2-3 months to keep it tuned up.

-- There's no crying in woodworking. Just measure and cut again.

View 731Loadmaster's profile


3 posts in 1274 days

#11 posted 10-25-2015 08:00 PM

I just purchased the dial indicator and rigged up a miter gauge mount….the difference came out to 0.015” off. I am proud to be only this far off compared to the start. parts are coming soon to make it better, but right now, I am on to making an outfeed table extension, router wing, and many, many projects….thanks all for your help


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