another jointer problem

Jeff,

Merry Christmas.

Are the infeed and outfeed tables co-planer?

You said that you did not adjust the outfeed table height. Did you test it? It should be either at the top-dead-center of the blades or slightly below (there are differing opinions on this). I set my outfeed table so that a 12” rule placed on its side with 9 inches on the outfeed table will be moved 1/8” toward the infeed side by the blade when rotated by hand (with the machine unplugged!). I test this nine times. For each of the three blades, I test it on the two ends and the center.

Good luck.

-- I was walking down the street, something caught my eye, and dragged it 15 feet.

Jeff , Question, are your feed tables, i think the word is coplanar? if you set the infeed and out feed tables at the same relative height would a straight edge touch at both outside ends and at the ends near the knives? I believe the infeed and outfeed tables need to be on parallel planes, just different in height for the amount of material you desire to remove.

I hope this gives you some thoughts till one of the smart guys wakes up or checks in. Also hope I understood your problem right

It could also be that you are pressing too hard at the start and not enough at the end.
That looks like pine and it will flex a lot in this case.
Here’s a test you could do. Try doing the edge of a board with the fence all the way to the back.
Check the width before and after and see if you get a consistent cut from one end to the other.
Then move the fence to the middle and run it again, and again with the fence to the extreme front.
That will give you an idea of how much if any the tables are out from being coplanar.
I’d also suggest that you try it flat again with the cup down as you have been. But do not put too much pressure downward. I’m assuming here that you do not have a planer as that would be the best way to flatten this board.

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I feel special, because you didn’t go back and read my last response on your last thread that adresses the issue you are still having.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

d-allen i did that test u said to do my results were as follows. when the fence was all the way in the back only the first half of the board was edge jointed same with as the fence moived to the middle. However, when i moved the fence all the way foward the board was edge jointed perfectly! so know how do i make my tables co-planer?

I might be wrong but I think you need to rule out the table alignment.

then do the rule flip one eighth thing with the rule and knife edges as ChuckV suggested.

Hope this helps, if the tool is out of whack you get out of whack results dude, might not be operator error except in the fact that you believe the tool to be correct.

If the tables are out of wack, front to back. This can be fixed byadding machinest shims to the low side under the table. Add a small amount at a time and go back thru to check for flatness.

-- Owner of custom millwork shop

ok. they are definatley not coplaner. i raised the infeed table all the way and then raised the outfeed table until it was in lign with the infeed. it seems to be that the outfeed table is saggin in about .009. So all i have to do is shim both sides of the outfeed table at the high side (since the table is saggin inward) with .009 feeler gauges?

Been a while since I have been here But hers it Goes

Pic 1 Cup is noticeable but also a slight twist is in the board is visible

Pic 2 Cup is being Planed off on first two Corners

Pic 3 Note set jointer to deeper level 1/16 passes 12 passes is too many

Pic 4 This is why you need a wood Planer humans cannot feed wood like machines and this is why you have the taper, ( take note) also working with Lumber like framing lumber takes a little more effort like making sure it is dry and storing it properly while doing so Even after bringing it home from the home center!!!!! along with cups twist mus be taken out before the jointer this is by finding the flattest part of the 2x and cutting it off on the mitersaw and then working out the twist this way ( not do not do this if it is too twisted Grab a circular saw first !!!!!)
Hope this helps :)

-- Proverbs Ch:3 vs 5,6,7 Trust in the lord with all thine heart and lean not unto your own understanding but in all your ways aknowledge him and he shall direct your path elmerthomas81@neo.rr.com

Jeff does this jointer have adjustments with the gib things on the dovetail slides? Saw somewhere that adjustments were possible on new fangled machines without resorting to cigarette filters and packing tape. Now my monster is old and has no means of adjustment for coplanar that I have found. I do have to use feeler gauges to get even a reasonable cut, one of these days I intend to remedy this with drilling and taping and hope not to destroy it in the process.

If both(front and back) of the table are sagging then yes, shim both. I usally use brass shims that I get from local machine shops. They carry them in different thicknesses. Grab a few of each thickness and then you can mix and match to get it at proper level.

-- Owner of custom millwork shop

Back off on the amount of pressure you are applying to the boards to start with. Take skinny cuts until you achieve flat.

-- TNJames

Come to think of it, I had an issue planing boards straight just a week ago – my euro style planer thicknesser was planing a bow after a chip had settled on the mount under the outfeed table. When the outfeed table was locked back down the chip was raising the end of the table so it wasn’t co-planar, causing a bow. Just goes to show that even the slightest misalignemt can cause problems.

-- Do or do not, there is no try