Help for New Table Saw User

As a starter, I’d recommend Kelly Mehler’s book:

-- -- Neil

I second Neil’s recommendation.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Neil’s suggested reading is spot-on … I bought Kelly Mehler’s book when I got my first table saw, and it has been the go-to source for just about any question I had.

You’ll always get better results with a good quality, sharp blade.

Dull blades can cause burning, so I would pick up a decent quality blade (I have had good luck with a thin kerf Freud Diablo, but there are many choices available), then go through a thorough alignment to first make sure the miter tracks are parallel to the blade, and then make sure the fence is parallel to the blade and the miter tracks.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

Yes, a good book and probably a new blade is a good place to start.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

Much thanks all. I have gotten a very warm welcome here so far!

Ill pick up a copy of that book if Santa happens to leave me some extra change in my stocking this year. As far as blades, I sent the one that was in the saw out to get sharpened, so that should hopefully eliminate that variable for now. Its not a blade with carbide teeth, just the steel. I know that means it will dull relatively fast, but it should work for me for a while, right?

It shoudl work for a while i dont see why not but if you want to get into a decent blade check out the freud diablos and the CMT’s available at the blue big box.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

By all means get a decent blade; it will be much safer and will make a huge difference in your work. Safety first: learn the safety rules before you learn techniques!

Sharp blades are always safer. In the steel blade days people had a huge stack of blades with some sharp and other to be sharpened. With carbide the blade count has come to a few blades. Yes they cost more but the sharpening charge on the steel blade goes a long ways toward a Freud Diablo. I am always looking for a bargain on a decent blade. Learn the safety rules as the other have mentioned. Equip yourself with push sticks and push blocks and keep them nearby. Welcome to LJ and enjoy.

Im needing to obtain (or make) myself a feather board and I already have the push sticks handy.

My first order of business is to mount a switch that is reachable from the working side of the saw, currently there is no easy way to turn off the saw at all without unplugging it, which I know is not safe. I have put any use on hold until I get that taken care of.

I was also thinking it would be handy to keep a few of the steel blades handy for if I am ripping some of the random boards that came with our house down. Im sure some have nails or other sorts of things hiding in them, and I would rather not trash a nice carbide tipped blade, since that sure eliminates the savings that could be had from re-using the lumber.

Thanks again, Im looking forward to learning more!

I have several of the power switches from Rockler. I have had some of the switches for a few years and they work fine.

They are currently on sale:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=power%20switch

This is a 120V switch.

-- "Too much hurry ruins the body. I'll sit easy … fan the spark" - I. Anderson

To help keep from ripping in to nails get yourself a metal detector wand.
HF has them for $40 and if you can get their flier, they have 25% off coupons for 01-Jan-12

They also have one for $17, but it’s probably not as good.

It adds up to being a whole lot cheaper than buying throw-away blades.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

Grizzly also has a switch that is much like those from Rockler and maybe cheaper. Depends on how good the sale is. Position it so you can bump it off with your knee. Don’t gut the old Sears switch as some have tried. Sometimes there are capacitors included in that little box on the front.

That may be the best Craftsman saw made. IMO it’s a keeper and worth investing in – if it needs it. -Jack

Im hoping to keep the saw for the rest of my days, since they just dont build stuff like that anymore.

I dont think it needs much other than some love, cleanup, and safety mods.

My thought was to wire in a regular toggle switch on the front that could be reached, but Ill look into the switches like those posted above.

Thanks again for all of the tips all, much appreciated!

I hope someone here has that saw and can speak about it. I bought this switch from Grizzly. I called their customer service to find a box, flange and strain relief. Basically look for a saw with a motor the same size and buy that switch assembly. I began to feel I was spending too much on my contractor saw. I wouldn’t feel that way if I had your model saw. Think about PALS. Blow all the dust out of the motor. I’d buy a cheap carbide blade for you recycling. -Jack