Milling problems

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Forum topic by flatboarder posted 12-22-2011 01:15 AM 1596 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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100 posts in 3095 days

12-22-2011 01:15 AM

Topic tags/keywords: oak

Hello all woodworker’s, I have had the biggest problem here trying to mill out some Quater Sawn White Oak. This wood has been in my shop now for over a year. I have been working on building a Buffett now for a year, I’m disabled so I can only work real slow. The problem I’m having is I have cut out some 2” wide boards 56” long 6/4 ” thick rough wood. I flatten out one side on the jointer and when I run the other side through the planer the board bows like crazy the opposite direction. In other words the concave side I flattened the other side was slightly convexed . After running the convexed side through the planer with a lite cut it came out concaved almost 1/8” in the center. This was very beautiful and expensive wood.

My jointer is a General International 8” with a byrd head I put in, after I purchased it. I haven’t had this problem but once before last year and I never did figure out the problem. It should’t matter that the board I’m trying to flatten on the jointer is longer that the jointer tables.? Should It?. It was raining today also but that shouldn’t be the problem either I don think.
Does anybody have any insight on what this could be? Thank you very much for your help. Christopher

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

7 replies so far

View Nomad62's profile


726 posts in 3197 days

#1 posted 12-22-2011 01:22 AM

That is a problem with oak, it tends to case harden if kiln dried incorrectly. It will develop a pull on the edges because of incorrect drying rates. There are two ways to deal with it, one is to steam the wood real well, that will release the case hardening; you will then need to clamp it flat until it dries. The other way, and maybe it will work and maybe it wont, is to trim 1/4” or so off each side in an attempt at cutting off the case hardened wood.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3886 days

#2 posted 12-22-2011 03:12 AM

Mill slow. Joint one face then let the wood rest overnight. Then plane 1/16”
off the other face and let the wood rest again. Then look at what you’ve got
and joint again and repeat.

I find a 78” level is a must-have tool for milling wood as it gives me a good
idea how straight I’m getting my edges and faces.

Sometimes a board has so much crazy tension in it that it becomes unusable
for larger furniture parts and you just have to cut it up and use if for other

Just because a board warps as soon as it comes off the planer doesn’t mean
it will stay that way either. Give the wood time to readjust to the new
balance of internal stresses.

View twiceisnice's profile


95 posts in 3065 days

#3 posted 12-22-2011 03:22 AM

Is this for your table top on the buffet ?

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2593 days

#4 posted 12-22-2011 07:36 AM

I’ve seen do some pretty radical things. From having to shim the end of a cut, so that the board would quit binding, to having it curl s shaped while cutting it on a table saw, To exploding while using a machine to cut a tennon.

Wood does have a mind of it’s own, we must learn to gently coax it to do as we wish. Or some sagely advise like that.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View flatboarder's profile


100 posts in 3095 days

#5 posted 12-22-2011 08:14 AM

It’s not for the table top, However it was one of the two pieces that was going to be the table top but I’m having to replace three rails so I decided to change all the rails and stiles on the front using just these two boards so that all the front was from the same tree. I had to but lumber twice for this project. Heres the kicker. I just milled out a nice piece of walnut that Ive also had in the shop for a couple of years and it also did the same thing. I think Im going to have to slow down ., cause I’m able to get one side flat on the jointer I think maybe I’m taking out too much on the planer thus causing all these problems. I’m going to try that tomorow. I have some more new lumber coming net week. Yhis lumber used to be on stickers on shelves but the shelves were not good and flat so I took it down and cut it down to smaller lengths and started standing it up. Before, I could tell that the lumber was taking the shape of the stickers, it looked like a snake. I was told that this would be ok to do this. I’m a real bad amature at this but I’m trying real hard. I really do love woodworking better than anything Iv’e ever done. The biggest problem Iv’e been having is getting to many wrong advises. Heck I buy new books all the time, I subscribe to every woodworking magazine thats out there but everytime I have a problem with a machine It takes me so long to get if fixed I forget everything Iv’e learned, What a mess! I wish I knew one person that I could talk to when I have problems so that I wouldn’t get so confused. Being disabled doesn’t help either Thanks for all the help with this problem. Christopher

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

View markplusone's profile


81 posts in 3194 days

#6 posted 03-08-2012 02:11 AM

I had a similar board from my sawyer that was straight as a pin when I got it. It was a stick of maple 8” wide and 120” long 10/4 stock. I was making a dovetail slide for an expandable table. First cut after running around the board (face joint, edge joint, plane, rip) was a rip 2” wide. It bowed almost 4” and 1.5” up over 10’. Did another cut, same thing. Know what I did? I turned it into about 3 hours of heat. With casehardened wood, you have to pick and choose your battles. I dont even bother trying to wet it and get it out. Usually, Im dealing with too thick of material to effectively get the moisture deep enough to release all the internal tension nor do I have the time to dry it correctly (most dehumidification kilns take roughly 0.3% moisture content per day below 20% m.c. measured for red oak around 130deg. F. Less than that the thicker or more dense the material). In fact, the case hardening can be so extreme the actual cells of the wood could rupture in wich case there is nothing you can do at all. Too much warp is just not worth the effort to correct and have it come back. Check your source of lumber and verify their drying techniques. If your not sure, ask someone what it should be or research a little and compare drying schedules. Could be just a rogue board. It happens. Just save yourself the frustration and get another stick to play with.

-- Dont carry that which you dont hold with.

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Mainiac Matt

8615 posts in 2567 days

#7 posted 03-08-2012 03:17 AM

Maybe it’s compression grain….

Lost cause if so

-- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

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