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Forum topic by NicholasS posted 12-20-2011 05:54 AM 1406 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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NicholasS

23 posts in 1051 days


12-20-2011 05:54 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer plane

I just got a Record no7 Jointer Plane on ebay. The first thing I did when I got it was take it apart and clean it.

There was a little rust on the body and there was dirt and gunk all over that was easy to clean off. There are some stains on the cutter iron and the cap iron and I’m not sure what to use to get them off without creating a lot of scratches on the iron.

Other than that I think it’s almost ready to use. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what I might want to do to the plane before putting it back together? I know I need to oil the lubrication points. What kind of oil do you use?


12 replies so far

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1281 posts in 1694 days


#1 posted 12-20-2011 07:03 AM

Well, honestly, I have never thought about it. They don’t get moved very often and I have never done it other than a bit of whatever I cleaned up with (usually WD40).

I guess I would put a drop on the adjuster screw, the adjuster yoke pivot, the lateral adjuster pivot, and the lever cap pivot since those are the only moving parts. A little 3in1 or a little beeswax should last a long time.

The rust stain should scrub of with a scotchbrite pad or steel wool.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

View wingate_52's profile

wingate_52

219 posts in 1266 days


#2 posted 12-20-2011 05:19 PM

A nice English Record there. How well does it work? Here is mine with a Smoothcut blade from Axminster and a Quangsheng chipbreaker from Workshopheaven.

View Don W's profile

Don W

15286 posts in 1264 days


#3 posted 12-20-2011 06:42 PM

I use Fluid Film I’ve even started using it in place of wax on the sole. (I just started this, so jury is still out) kind of like Paul Sellers uses 3 in 1. Fluid Film stops and prevents rust, easiely sprayed on and seems to work really well. To me its similar to Break Free that I used for my firearms.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View andrewr79's profile

andrewr79

33 posts in 1049 days


#4 posted 12-20-2011 09:52 PM

After giving a plane a clean up I always give the screws a few drops of machine oil. I use beeswax on the rest of the tool because it prevents rust without getting everywhere, plus it makes the plane work better when used on the sole.

-- Visit my blog @ thewoodworkgeek.wordpress.com to see what I've been up to

View wingate_52's profile

wingate_52

219 posts in 1266 days


#5 posted 12-20-2011 09:56 PM

I always keep a tealight candle handy for a quick wipe over the sole.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1390 days


#6 posted 12-20-2011 09:57 PM

^Very nice plane. You’re going to love it. I’ve become a fan of the PB Blaster penetrating lubricant (not the yellow degreaser evil stuff). It’s got a bit of a foam at first, kind of a cross between a penetrant and some quality oil. I think it’s $5 a can or so at the automotive joint. I tend to spend an inordinate time getting the depth adjuster threads nice and clean. I’ll give a little toot of oil to anything that moves or rotates. I wax the soles with cheap paraffin from the grocery store canning aisle.
.
Now don’t be offended…but…you don’t expect to use it with the blade in its current state, do you? It could be an optical illusion but there seems to be a tremendous backbevel on the iron (?) The chipbreaker looks bent as well (?) Both are easy to fix, of course, and well worth the fixin. There’s tons of life left on that blade. Once you make sure the end is square, flatten/polish the back, and put a nice edge on it, you’ll have a joy of a plane. Good luck!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View NicholasS's profile

NicholasS

23 posts in 1051 days


#7 posted 12-22-2011 03:12 AM

Bertha: thats just dirt from the cap iron, not a back bevel but it does look like it on the picture.

I think ill clean up the blade with a scotchbrite pad, put some paraffin on the sole, and lube up the moving parts and put it back together. Can’t wait to start flattening a Bench top with this (if I ever get around to making my bench).

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112367 posts in 2274 days


#8 posted 12-22-2011 03:21 AM

Nice work enjoy you new old tool.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Viking's profile

Viking

857 posts in 1892 days


#9 posted 12-22-2011 03:32 AM

Has anyone tried spray dry lube? It does not attract dirt / dust after it dries for a few seconds.

I started using on my table saw gears and it is great. I just blow dust off every 6 month or so and give everything a good shot. Blade lift and tilt work very smoothly.

Should work on hand plane moving parts as well?

Best thing I have found for rust is Evapo-Rust. You can find it at Tractor Supply (best price about $20 / gallon) and Harbor Freight. And it is very environmentally friendly. I know that most things that are EF don’t work but Evapo-Rust seems to be one of the exceptions. You can pour it down the drain after it wears out without a guilty conscience. I filter mine through a coffee filter every so often and it really extends the life.

Good Luck with your plane refurbishment!

-- Rick Gustafson - Lost Creek Ranch - Colorado County, Texas

View drfunk's profile

drfunk

223 posts in 1373 days


#10 posted 12-22-2011 05:40 AM

On my planes in good working order I use prodigious amounts of beeswax and jojoba oil. I’ve never had any problems with stain interference and I mean I REALLY use the beeswax and jojoba – on soles, saws, everything. If I have any concerns, a quick wipe with mineral spirits and I’m good to go.

On my more stubborn planes I use penetrating oil in a bottle (Liquid Wrench I think – WD-40 would work, but it gets everywhere) on all moving parts. On freshly de-rusted and polished parts I use Johnson’s Paste Wax, but I wish I had something less smelly – anybody?

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 1051 days


#11 posted 12-22-2011 06:48 AM

to do list

Check sole is flat

Check iron is ground correctly and is sharp.

check that the chip breaker is flat where it meets the blade so that shavings don’t get trapped underneath it.

clean to your desired level of cleanliness

assemble, run over board to see how it peforms

P.s Nice plane, I’d probably have bid on it myself, if I wasn’t waiting on the end of a job (when I get paid)

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View marcfromny's profile

marcfromny

45 posts in 2056 days


#12 posted 12-27-2011 07:04 PM

my record #7 is my favorite long jointer. As far as oil, lie nielsen recommends camelia oil for a light rust preventative coat. for wax, I sometimes use a regular piece of white candle on the sole just to make the plane slide better. I’ve read often that beeswax is not what you want to use because it is slightly sticky. It is also an ingredient in some finishes so you may not want to get it on your wood. The whole idea is to keep it simple. Maybe a tiny bit of dry lube on the threaded adjuster once in a blue moon and wipe the plane down after use. thats it.

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