Wards powrkraft RA saw

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Forum topic by jimmac posted 12-20-2011 12:07 AM 2672 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 1774 days

12-20-2011 12:07 AM

Topic tags/keywords: saw wards radial switch

My Wards radial arm saw died in the middle of a project. The trigger switch went kaput and now I’m stuck till I get it replaced.
Does anyone out there have a trigger switch for the Wards TPC-2610C radial arm saw? The switch part number is
18-00205 (per parts list).
If no switch is around perhaps somone has a suggestion on another way to fix the on-off problem. I could by-pass the switch and just plug the saw into the wall, but that is not a smart way to go with a radial saw.
I did take the switch apart but it is beyond repair. After all the saw is about 45 years old, and I bought it new.


-- James Mack

12 replies so far

View Pimzedd's profile


561 posts in 3227 days

#1 posted 12-20-2011 12:17 AM

Why don’t you get a safety power switch from Rockler or Woodcraft and wire it in? Go to That will give you the paddle to hit in case of an emergency. And they are on sale now at Rockler. I have one that I use on an old Craftsman bandsaw and it works well.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

View Loren's profile


8168 posts in 3071 days

#2 posted 12-20-2011 12:48 AM

have you opened the switch and looked over its working
parts? Sometimes these things are easily fixed with a little

View Don W's profile

Don W

17882 posts in 1990 days

#3 posted 12-20-2011 01:51 AM

worst case just throw a light switch on it until a proper switch arrives.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. -

View Clouseau's profile


55 posts in 2456 days

#4 posted 12-20-2011 09:05 PM

1. Is there a number on the switch. The switch looks to be common “Skill Saw” switch. You might find a cross reference with Google.
2. Wire around it and use a power strip with a switch as part of it.
3. Purchase the switch mentioned above.
4. Make up a new switch box and mount it under the front of the table where is easy to reach. I use the 110-220 volt version from Grizzly ($13) in a 4×4 box with a plaster ring. Cut and wire in a new 14 ga extension cord so you have use of both plugs. You can then unplug the saw from the switch when the extra measure of safety is needed or when you need it temporarily for another machine. When wiring for 110 volts just use one side of the switch. If you burn out the contacts in the future, just move the wires to the other side.

-- Dan Coleman, retired Welding Inspector and past IA Teacher

View johnm59's profile


1 post in 1759 days

#5 posted 01-02-2012 06:09 PM

Try this place. My father-in-law had the same problem a year or two ago and was able to get the switch from them. The web site is but it only has contact info so you either have to call or email them. Good luck.

View jimmac's profile


9 posts in 1774 days

#6 posted 01-03-2012 06:00 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions. I too found the powrkraft web site and have ordered the replacement trigger switch. I do not know when it will arrive as they are open only 2 days a week and now my check seems to have been delayed or lost in the mail.

-- James Mack

View TexAcoon's profile


8 posts in 326 days

#7 posted 12-06-2015 12:21 AM

I have a question about the wiring …. I recently purchased Kraft Model TPC 2610C and the switch was removed from the handle by the previous owner. When I got it home … and removed the handle … There were four wires in the handle open … White – Black – Red – Red …
My question is how this was originally wired? ... is there a brake on the motor for this particular saw that has to be energized do to the other set of wires …

Either way I just need help identifying the wires so I can wire this unit back together … Thanks!

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

7727 posts in 1803 days

#8 posted 12-06-2015 05:58 AM

Tex, you should start a new thread for your question.


View MrUnix's profile


4039 posts in 1622 days

#9 posted 12-06-2015 06:35 AM

Yup, start a new thread… but in the meantime, test for continuity between the white and black wires and the ends of your power cord… more than likely, the two reds are going to the motor, the black and white wires are coming from the wall, and the switch was a double pole type that switched both the hot and neutral.


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View oldnovice's profile


5655 posts in 2791 days

#10 posted 12-06-2015 06:36 AM

+1 for Pimzedd soution!
That way you don’t have to worry about future old part replacement.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View dhazelton's profile


2291 posts in 1719 days

#11 posted 12-06-2015 01:29 PM

You sure it’s the switch and not the start capacitor? Did you wire the motor directly to a cord and plug it in? If it is the switch I would have wired in a new box with a paddle switch as suggested.

View TexAcoon's profile


8 posts in 326 days

#12 posted 12-06-2015 02:09 PM

Per request: Started new thread on this …

Figured I would ask questions up front before I started to obtain ideas from others…

MrUnix: will check the continuity between cord and switch wiring.. dhazelton: I checked the switch it was good …. I have not tried starting the saw since I got it… will do so today. Did not check capacitor. Will do so if the saw does not start…

Thanks guys for the input… When the other post is approved I will attach it to this post..

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