Choose my blade for a wooden plane

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Forum topic by alex posted 12-19-2011 11:35 PM 2135 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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17 posts in 2611 days

12-19-2011 11:35 PM

Hi all,

i want to build somethin like this.

can i use the blade of my stanley N°5 to Start ?

or do i use a specific blade ?

Thanks a lot


6 replies so far

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2997 days

#1 posted 12-20-2011 12:53 AM

Starting off with a plane from a block plane would be better. The bench plane irons are too long.

I personally got a handful of nice ones from Lee Valley for evil experiments:,41182,46334

They are the replacement blades for these:

For $9-$13 it is hard to go wrong.

I also have some from Ron Hock. Great irons.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View Don W's profile

Don W

18715 posts in 2567 days

#2 posted 12-20-2011 01:57 AM

If you read “The fine art of cabinet building” buy James Krenov you will find that was his original recommendation for the krenov style plane. Its how I built this one.

If you look at picture 4 you can see where the blade was cut at about 4” and you can see the cap iron screw groove.

I can post a more detailed picture of the blade if you need it.

EDIT: Should have linked the blog too.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View alex's profile


17 posts in 2611 days

#3 posted 12-20-2011 10:31 AM

tahnks all,

David : what angle angle do i have to make for this blade (for the throat i mean, on the schem it’s 50 and 55) ?

Don : it’s nice

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2997 days

#4 posted 12-20-2011 05:18 PM

You are in control of your destiny. You can make it whatever angle you would like. Generally, you are looking at 45 degrees. If you do a lot of work in wood with difficult grain, go up to 50ish. You can also make a scraper plane up in the 85-90 deg range. I don’t suggest going to the low angle in wood. It just gets too thin to support the iron well.

The throat is also up to you. You want to get it to the point where it won’t hold too many shavings so they flow out well. You want it big enough to get your fingers in to clear it when needed. You want the mouth well supported so it doesn’t start chipping out.

What I have done on mine:

I went ahead and made the the front angle about 50 degrees. I then glued in the front block closer to make the mouth too narrow for the iron to come out. When the glue was dry, I opened the mouth with a file which left a blunt edge on the back of the front block instead of a thin knife edge. Several planes later, no problems with any of them and they all work just fine.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View Kelby's profile


134 posts in 2410 days

#5 posted 12-20-2011 06:17 PM

Get your blades from Hock Tools. They will make a huge difference in the quality of cut. Ron Hock will steer you in the right direction in terms of which blade to get.

-- Kelby

View andrewr79's profile


36 posts in 2351 days

#6 posted 12-20-2011 09:54 PM

You’ll want a thicker blade for a wooden plane than for a metal one – there’s plenty of old Matherson blades on eBay if you take a look there.

-- Visit my blog @ to see what I've been up to

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