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clear resin for bar top

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Forum topic by Richard posted 976 days ago 5186 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Richard

857 posts in 1316 days


976 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question resource

I have a friend that wants me to help him make a bartop for his basement rec room. He wants to take beer bottle caps and bar coasters that he has collected and put them on the top of bar and then seal them all in with resin of some type to proudce a smooth clear finish that is durable but also clear enough to see the caps and coasters thru the finish.
I really have no idea what product to use or the correct process for doing it, but I need something that is available in the US ( Ca really ) and that hopefully won’t cost a ton of $$ and is easy to apply. Most likely I won’t get all thes options in one product but hey it never hurts to ask.

Thanks


12 replies so far

View MrsN's profile

MrsN

939 posts in 2152 days


#1 posted 976 days ago

There is a bar-top finish made for this. You should be able to find it at the wood-stores or even home depot. It should be near the polyurethane. Most comes as a two part mix, and works great!

-- ----- www.KNWoodworking.com ----- --

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SASmith

1566 posts in 1613 days


#2 posted 976 days ago

Kleer Kote is what I used on this bar.
http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html
It is fairly cheap and works well.

I have plans to make a bar like you with bottle caps. My plan is to set the caps in tile adhesive then grout to the top of the caps. Then 1/8” of epoxy to top it off

Here is an application guide:
http://www.uscomposites.com/pdf/kkote.pdf

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

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Pimzedd

442 posts in 2430 days


#3 posted 976 days ago

Better test it on the bottle caps first. Some resins shrink when they cure. The metal does not, it expands due to the heat of the curing process. The result is big cracks.

Just a thought.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

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SASmith

1566 posts in 1613 days


#4 posted 976 days ago

View JamesVavra's profile

JamesVavra

286 posts in 1942 days


#5 posted 975 days ago

This is what I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047R2C9Y/ref=s9simhgwp60d4g60i3?pfrdm=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pfrds=center-2&pfrdr=11JPBYGHAH9KP0PXK5JP&pfrdt=101&pfrdp=470938631&pfrdi=507846

I did about 40 square feet at 1/8” thick and used almost two of the 1.5 Gallon kits.

I applied in multiple, thin coats and had fewer bubbles than what I was told to expect. Apparently, a heat gun will help work the bubbles out as it cures. Also, make sure that there are no voids for the epoxy to run through – it’s not as viscous as you might think, and will dribble through the tiniest of holes.

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Imgoodwithmywood

5 posts in 975 days


#6 posted 975 days ago

Any pictures someone can post?

View SASmith               's profile

SASmith

1566 posts in 1613 days


#7 posted 975 days ago

Imgoodwithmywood: The first link I posted has many more pics too.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

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Dallas

2866 posts in 1113 days


#8 posted 975 days ago

Bartop Epoxy Finish

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Paul Sipos's profile

Paul Sipos

142 posts in 979 days


#9 posted 975 days ago

I started working with a product called GLAZECOAT a couple of years ago. You can find it at Lowe’s for around $22.00 for 2 small bottles. I have seen larger bottles available of glazecoat for around $80 I think.
Was made just for the purpose of what you are wanting to do. You get you a couple of automotive clear paint measuring cups and pour equal amounts to a predetermined mark on each cup. MEASUREMENTS MUST BE EXACT or it will not harden and stay sticky. Once you have measured, pour resin into the hardener gently as to not to make many bubbles as they will form when mixing. You will know it is starting to mix well when it takes on a golden “pearl like” effect in the cup. stir well for several minutes untill the “pearling” clears up. You are ready to pour. I found if you are going to cover a surface like that, I usually use a large brush that the bristles don’t easily come out of like for oil paint. Mix a little at a time like 16oz. , work quickly with one coat covering the entire surface once, as it is hard to go back and try to cover a missed patch and have it look right.
Let dry overnight, and repeat the process untill your desired effect is achived. In the case of covering a bumpy surface, such as bottlecaps and coasters, a sealed wooden or metal border around the table or bar would be a good idea, and then you can just pour glazecoat on untill desired height is achieved.
The glazecoat comes with instructions on how to do it, but I hope I hit more of the specifics for you. Oh, and when your pour is done and you still have tiny air bubbles in the glaze you can get alot of them out effortlessly by blowing on them with a air nozzle or using a propane torch at a safe distance. And this product is proudly made in the U.s.a. If you need anymore info, don’t be shy and give ol’ yeoldepirate1 a yell.

-- psipos@snakebite.com

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Paul Sipos

142 posts in 979 days


#10 posted 975 days ago

Check out some of my Glazecoat work at my site.

-- psipos@snakebite.com

View tbone74's profile

tbone74

64 posts in 1111 days


#11 posted 975 days ago

I did this with bottle caps 15 years ago and I remember them floating to the surface. What a PITA. Just be sure you fasten them down first

-- Tony

View Richard's profile

Richard

857 posts in 1316 days


#12 posted 974 days ago

Thanks for all the advice everyone , I think I have some good starting points to go from. I now plan on getting a couple of the different products mentioned above in small amounts and try them on some test pieces and see which one works best for me.
I hope he gets his wood picked out soon so I can use the same type to test with.

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