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clear resin for bar top

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Forum topic by Richard posted 12-19-2011 11:02 PM 5334 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Richard

915 posts in 1349 days


12-19-2011 11:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question resource

I have a friend that wants me to help him make a bartop for his basement rec room. He wants to take beer bottle caps and bar coasters that he has collected and put them on the top of bar and then seal them all in with resin of some type to proudce a smooth clear finish that is durable but also clear enough to see the caps and coasters thru the finish.
I really have no idea what product to use or the correct process for doing it, but I need something that is available in the US ( Ca really ) and that hopefully won’t cost a ton of $$ and is easy to apply. Most likely I won’t get all thes options in one product but hey it never hurts to ask.

Thanks


12 replies so far

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MrsN

939 posts in 2184 days


#1 posted 12-19-2011 11:32 PM

There is a bar-top finish made for this. You should be able to find it at the wood-stores or even home depot. It should be near the polyurethane. Most comes as a two part mix, and works great!

-- ----- www.KNWoodworking.com ----- --

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SASmith

1591 posts in 1645 days


#2 posted 12-20-2011 12:09 AM

Kleer Kote is what I used on this bar.
http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html
It is fairly cheap and works well.

I have plans to make a bar like you with bottle caps. My plan is to set the caps in tile adhesive then grout to the top of the caps. Then 1/8” of epoxy to top it off

Here is an application guide:
http://www.uscomposites.com/pdf/kkote.pdf

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

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Pimzedd

450 posts in 2462 days


#3 posted 12-20-2011 12:20 AM

Better test it on the bottle caps first. Some resins shrink when they cure. The metal does not, it expands due to the heat of the curing process. The result is big cracks.

Just a thought.

-- Bill - Mesquite, TX --- "Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge , timber framer and blacksmith instructor at Tillers International school

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SASmith

1591 posts in 1645 days


#4 posted 12-20-2011 01:29 AM

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JamesVavra

286 posts in 1974 days


#5 posted 12-20-2011 05:49 PM

This is what I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047R2C9Y/ref=s9simhgwp60d4g60i3?pfrdm=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pfrds=center-2&pfrdr=11JPBYGHAH9KP0PXK5JP&pfrdt=101&pfrdp=470938631&pfrdi=507846

I did about 40 square feet at 1/8” thick and used almost two of the 1.5 Gallon kits.

I applied in multiple, thin coats and had fewer bubbles than what I was told to expect. Apparently, a heat gun will help work the bubbles out as it cures. Also, make sure that there are no voids for the epoxy to run through – it’s not as viscous as you might think, and will dribble through the tiniest of holes.

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Imgoodwithmywood

5 posts in 1007 days


#6 posted 12-21-2011 12:19 AM

Any pictures someone can post?

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SASmith

1591 posts in 1645 days


#7 posted 12-21-2011 12:28 AM

Imgoodwithmywood: The first link I posted has many more pics too.

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

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Dallas

2925 posts in 1145 days


#8 posted 12-21-2011 12:58 AM

Bartop Epoxy Finish

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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Paul Sipos

142 posts in 1011 days


#9 posted 12-21-2011 01:54 AM

I started working with a product called GLAZECOAT a couple of years ago. You can find it at Lowe’s for around $22.00 for 2 small bottles. I have seen larger bottles available of glazecoat for around $80 I think.
Was made just for the purpose of what you are wanting to do. You get you a couple of automotive clear paint measuring cups and pour equal amounts to a predetermined mark on each cup. MEASUREMENTS MUST BE EXACT or it will not harden and stay sticky. Once you have measured, pour resin into the hardener gently as to not to make many bubbles as they will form when mixing. You will know it is starting to mix well when it takes on a golden “pearl like” effect in the cup. stir well for several minutes untill the “pearling” clears up. You are ready to pour. I found if you are going to cover a surface like that, I usually use a large brush that the bristles don’t easily come out of like for oil paint. Mix a little at a time like 16oz. , work quickly with one coat covering the entire surface once, as it is hard to go back and try to cover a missed patch and have it look right.
Let dry overnight, and repeat the process untill your desired effect is achived. In the case of covering a bumpy surface, such as bottlecaps and coasters, a sealed wooden or metal border around the table or bar would be a good idea, and then you can just pour glazecoat on untill desired height is achieved.
The glazecoat comes with instructions on how to do it, but I hope I hit more of the specifics for you. Oh, and when your pour is done and you still have tiny air bubbles in the glaze you can get alot of them out effortlessly by blowing on them with a air nozzle or using a propane torch at a safe distance. And this product is proudly made in the U.s.a. If you need anymore info, don’t be shy and give ol’ yeoldepirate1 a yell.

-- psipos@snakebite.com

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Paul Sipos

142 posts in 1011 days


#10 posted 12-21-2011 01:57 AM

Check out some of my Glazecoat work at my site.

-- psipos@snakebite.com

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tbone74

64 posts in 1143 days


#11 posted 12-21-2011 04:15 AM

I did this with bottle caps 15 years ago and I remember them floating to the surface. What a PITA. Just be sure you fasten them down first

-- Tony

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Richard

915 posts in 1349 days


#12 posted 12-21-2011 10:12 PM

Thanks for all the advice everyone , I think I have some good starting points to go from. I now plan on getting a couple of the different products mentioned above in small amounts and try them on some test pieces and see which one works best for me.
I hope he gets his wood picked out soon so I can use the same type to test with.

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