Need Help - Stumped as to the cause of problem

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Forum topic by mrg posted 12-18-2011 04:32 AM 1507 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View mrg's profile


823 posts in 2993 days

12-18-2011 04:32 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question maple tablesaw

I have a table saw issue that you guys and girls may be able to help me resolve.

I have a Delta
34-410 contractors saw with a T2 fence. I have an issue with the side that is being cut having a slight curve in it. I have checked everything and it all is what it should be. I realigned the blade to the miter slot and I am dead on front and back. I used different reference points on the blade and everything checks out. The fence is aligned with miter and no warpage or anything. I tried two different blades to see if the blade may be warped.

First picture is the piece with the factory edge against the fence and it is perfect.

Next photo is piece spun 180 degrees.

The next photo is the piece tumbled front to back.

I am stumped the longer side pieces are the same way. Could it be caused by the throat plate? It’s level, but it is the stock plate.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am in the middle of building a box and will need to cut the lid off when I am done. I made a bunch of wine bottle balancers and didn’t notice the issue.

Thanks and Happy Holidays.

-- mrg

11 replies so far

View chrisstef's profile


17378 posts in 3000 days

#1 posted 12-18-2011 05:18 AM

hmm im wondering is its something with your feed rate. Are you using a push block the whole way through or do your hands switch position. Im thinking that the blade is an ATB and its spinning for a prolonged period on one spot? Just thinkin out loud here.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View mrg's profile


823 posts in 2993 days

#2 posted 12-18-2011 05:57 AM

I am using a gripper push block so I am going at a consistent rate and am flush against the fence. Earlier in the day the blade was not cutting very well so I cleaned and sprayed some cutter lube and a world of difference. The blade I use 99% of the time is a ATB grind Combo blade from Oldhem and it was sharpened not that long ago. The rip blade did the same thing.

You may be right on the feed rate. I’ll wax the table and fence and see if that helps. It seems to do it in the same spot every time.

Here is a longer side factory edge;

Next two are the cut as above:

The burn mark in the photo is from my miter saw.


-- mrg

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2349 days

#3 posted 12-18-2011 07:22 AM

If this was from a longer board, I could tell you where most people go wrong…

But without being able to watch you, it looks like you are hooking you cut. Sometimes when people push the board through, the do not realize the back of the blade can cut just as the front does, so after the front edge of the board has passed the blade, the tend to not watch the fence as well as they should, and hook the board across the back edge of the blade.

For longer boards, people don’t realize their bodies rock back and forth as they walk, so in doing what comes naturally, they tend to rock the boards back and forth while cutting. Unfortunately, sometimes a carpenter must be graceful to be precise :X

(Edit) at some point I’m going to have to take a picture of one of the push sticks my former master used (I considered my time at that shop an apprenticeship because we rarely cut the board the same way thrice). It allows the hand to be well clear of the blade and one to be able to adjust preasure on the board to force it towards the fence.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Don W's profile

Don W

18707 posts in 2561 days

#4 posted 12-18-2011 04:00 PM

I’d also take the blade off and make sure the washers and blade are clean and free and not gummed up. If you run a longer board through does it happen in a series (several at the same distance), or is it always once in a certain spot?

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3062 days

#5 posted 12-18-2011 05:55 PM

How much of a gap are you seeing? I know that these old eyes ain’t as good as they once were, but I’m guessing that your gap is <.002” – if it’s even that big.

If you aren’t getting burn marks on the board edges, and no serious resistance when you push it thru the saw, I wouldn’t get too worried about a slight gap. It ain’t a machine shop. – lol

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Bertha's profile


13525 posts in 2687 days

#6 posted 12-18-2011 05:58 PM

Have you ran a dial indicator against the fence itself? Is it possible that there’s a slight bow/cup somewhere along the fence? I know these things are supposed to be perfect, but you know how that goes;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View miles125's profile


2180 posts in 3999 days

#7 posted 12-18-2011 06:37 PM

Looks like a slight heat generated blade wobble from too thin a blade in too hard a wood to me.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View mrg's profile


823 posts in 2993 days

#8 posted 12-18-2011 06:51 PM

Thanks guys, I think it is a combo of technique and the blade maybe needing to be resharpened. I just cut some MDF and it is perfectly straight, cut both sides and no gaps and watched that I did not walk away from the fence. The pieces in the photo are 3/4 in. Maple and the pieces were a little resistant to cutting so I may have hooked my cut as mentioned before as the cut was made.

Thanks guys.

-- mrg

View BAH's profile


8 posts in 3034 days

#9 posted 12-18-2011 06:55 PM

What length of board are you cutting? Does it do the same thing on longer boards. If the boards you are cutting are shorter than your insert then I would say the back edge is dropping because of pressure exerted on the rear of the board being cut and the insert not being perfectly flush with the top.just a guess.

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2349 days

#10 posted 12-18-2011 08:48 PM

Miles, I’ve been using thin Kerf blades for the better part of a decade. They design the thinner kerfed blades to not heat up, and honestly they are less prone to heating up because there is less friction generated because they take less material than the wide kerf blades. They use better metals than when thin kerfed blades first came out, and they actually make carbide teeth now.

I’ve used thin kerf blades on Ipe, Jatoba, Wenge, Pecan, Hickory, Teak, Hard Rock Maple, Makore, and a slew of other hard woods. They don’t do what you’re saying they do unless it is like a 5$ carbideless plywood blade.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View RONFINCH's profile


143 posts in 2918 days

#11 posted 12-19-2011 10:18 PM

Gotta go with Bertha on this one…....had the same problem.

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