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Bandsaw -- To Use the Resaw Bar or NOT

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Forum topic by HorizontalMike posted 12-13-2011 05:14 AM 3247 views 0 times favorited 36 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


12-13-2011 05:14 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw bs rikon 10-325 ripping resaw bar resaw

I have started another project, this time a Barrister’s Bookcase and have a question about ripping 1/4in boards on my BS, from White Ash for use in place of the plywood called for in the plans.

After checking out the price of quality 1/4in Veneer Plywood, I have decided that it would be cheaper to just cut my own 1/4in thick boards for this project. I am starting with 6-8in wide 8/4 White Ash from which I plan on ripping 1/4in planks. I also feel like ripping “real” boards would be more “old school” and/or accurate for these Mission Style bookcases.

QUESTION: Should I use the resaw bar on my Rikon 14in Deluxe (10-325) BS, OR should I just use the full flat fence(on left) and rip the 1/4in slice off to the right(free side of blade) of the blade? Can either work? Which is a better technique?...

FYI—Currently have stock 1/2in 4TPI blade on machine, but could swap out for a Timberwolf 3/4in 3TPI that I have yet to mount.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."


36 replies so far

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1311 posts in 1498 days


#1 posted 12-13-2011 05:20 AM

I think you ll want your fence (if used) to the left of the blade. And the pin works very well, you should give it a try. I vote for the 3 tpi. That s what I typically resaw with. Good luck with it.JB

View buckles's profile

buckles

24 posts in 1231 days


#2 posted 12-13-2011 05:22 AM

Mike
i would suggest that you try one cut each way and see which works for you. There is no “right way” only preferences.
Ash is hard, don’t push. Use a wide 2 TPI blade
Regards
Joe

-- Politicians are like diapers. They need to be changed for the same reasons.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#3 posted 12-13-2011 05:41 AM

FWIW, I have already been ripping my 8/4 into several needed 4/4 to 3/4in finish, using the bar and the stock 1/2in 4TPI. I wandered ~1/16in back and forth over the roughly 26in piece. Easy work for the planer to correct, but this did cause me to wonder about ripping the thinner boards to size correctly.

I just hate to waste too much wood “practicing” if you know what I mean… ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Jorge G.'s profile

Jorge G.

1526 posts in 1164 days


#4 posted 12-13-2011 06:52 AM

If you have a well tuned BS and you mill the wood absolutely square I would go with the 3/4 3 TPI blade on the inside cut, it is more precise.

If you have some drift then I would go with following the line and the outside cut. You are the better one to judge which is better for you.

-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#5 posted 12-13-2011 04:23 PM

How many/who has resawn thin panels WITHOUT using a resaw bar/pin?

I am asking this because it seems like I could get a straighter cut with the majority of the board left of the blade and against a flat fence. I am thinking, but do NOT know this, that the thin 1/4in panel(s) coming off the blade is/are flexible enough to NOT pose a pinch hazard? Has anyone done this in this manner?

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View bluekingfisher's profile

bluekingfisher

1058 posts in 1669 days


#6 posted 12-13-2011 04:40 PM

My two cents – go with the wider blade with less teeth every time for resawing.

My preference would be the flat tall fence everytime too, it has certainly worked for me. I have an 18” bandsaw and have it set up pretty well.

I did notice however that after some time the blade started to deflect a little??, so I took a break and cleaned the blade. I reckoned the blade may have been getting hot and became a little more flexible?? maybe I should have gone to the resaw bar at that point but like I said once the blade cooled again all was well.

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View hairy's profile

hairy

2067 posts in 2221 days


#7 posted 12-13-2011 05:27 PM

You are using 6 to 8 inch wide boards? Think about starting to resaw on the tablesaw.Raise your blade halfway up, make a cut, flip it over and make another cut, then raise the blade all the way up and repeat. Final cut is on the bandsaw to remove the center section.

Just a thought…

-- the last of Barret's Privateers...

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5351 posts in 1287 days


#8 posted 12-13-2011 05:30 PM

I too have that saw, I have had better results using the bar. I use a 3/4 3tpi timberwolf blade. However, I have on order a 1/2 woodslicer blade. I think I am a bit hesitant to crank a saw of this size to proper tension for 3/4 blade. Seems like a lit of force. But I am no expert, just my results so far.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3500 posts in 2650 days


#9 posted 12-13-2011 06:13 PM

I use a 1/2” Woodslicer with the flat fence on the left of the blade.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#10 posted 12-13-2011 08:00 PM

Well, I just came back in after installing the TimberWolf 3/4in 3TPI blade and have to admit that it cuts much easier and smoothly than the stock 1/2 4TPI that came with the BS. Just one mild point, the weld must be ever so slightly off of perfect because it flexes to the back on every revolution and clunks on the rear roller. The good news is that it does NOT affect the cut at all. I split a couple short ~3-4in 8/4 into ~1in stock for final finishing to 3/4. I DID use the resaw bar this time, since I was wanting to wait and hear from you all regarding using a flat fence only.

I think I will continue using the bar when resawing for thicker pieces and will try the flat fence only for resawing to ~1/4in or so. Headed back out to the shop but wanted to check in here while eating lunch. Thanks.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1700 posts in 1611 days


#11 posted 12-14-2011 01:16 AM

I re-saw a lot on my band saw. 8” boards down to 3/8” or 1/4” thick. I keep the “good” part of the board between the blade and the 6” tall re-saw fence. I find that the 1/2” woodslicer blade is much better for me than the Timberwolf blade was. I re-saw a lot of cedar and some oak and walnut.

-- In God We Trust

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#12 posted 12-14-2011 01:51 AM

Well I just spent another few hours in the shop cutting rough blanks for my Barrister’s Bookcase. Got a ways to go, however, it is starting to look like I may have enough spare Ash laying around to complete a 3-high version without having to buy additional lumber. I have continued resawing 8/4 into 4/4 with the bar in place and am pleased that I upgraded from the stock blade. Don’t really like the “clunk” of the blade shifting on every revolution, but the boards do look better than my attempt with the stock Rikon blade.

FWIW, I will probably give the 1/2in Woodslicer a shot since the stock 1/2in does seem below par from my own observations. I had always heard this was so, but wanted to “know” for sure. That will probably be next year or so…

Thanks Jim, when I get to cutting the 1/4in stuff I will definitely flat fence it with the good/main board against the fence. Just don’t want to cut the 1/4in stuff just yet, until I can readily fit in the frames since we are finally experiencing some humidity here in south Texas. 8-)

I am pleasantly surprised that this project has so many “small” parts compared to my 21st Century Workbench project. It sure makes the jointer, planer, TS, BS all much easier to use… Happy camper here 8-) for sure…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Jorge G.'s profile

Jorge G.

1526 posts in 1164 days


#13 posted 12-14-2011 02:15 AM

How many/who has resawn thin panels WITHOUT using a resaw bar/pin?

I have, but I have a big band saw and I spent some hours tuning it so that I would get no drift. The reason you cannot get a straight cut is because you have drift and/or the table is not perpendicular to the blade.

-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6948 posts in 1603 days


#14 posted 12-14-2011 04:24 AM

As I changed out from stock to TimberWolf I spent a couple of hours adjusting and then readjusting (maybe four times from top to bottom and back). While I am sure that helped, the better quality blade seems to deservably beg for attention as well. Perpendicular was off by less than a degree and was corrected. Other than the fore and aft serge per revolution, the new blade is cutting fine.

By and large, I am learning just how sensitive the BS is to the smallest adjustments. Much more sensitive than I would have thought previously.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11239 posts in 1379 days


#15 posted 12-14-2011 04:47 AM

Mike, Have you tried ‘stoning’ the back side of your blade to help the ‘thump’?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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