I suggest wax.

The easiest place to find is the wax that they sell for bicycle chains.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

Dricote in the spray can works pretty well without much of a buildup. You might try Johnson’s floor wax or good ol bees wax. I use bees wax for quite a few things now that I raise bees. But even before, I used it when I could get my hands on it.

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

Graphite works well. Most people make the mistake thinking by lubricating they are doing a good thing. If the wrong lubrication is used it is actually causing more problems. An example is patio doors, I repair many that people complain no longer slide freely, they tell me they have used WD40 faithfully. WD40 collects the house dust which in turn causes the plastic rollers to fail.(I think WD 40 is an abbreviatoin for good lubricant “Watered Down 40 times”) the same goes for your radial arm saw. Wipe the track clean often and do not use anything that will cause the very fine saw dust to stick, blow the rollers with an blast of air.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

I used to be in the camp that eschewed any wet lubes because of the dust.

Wax was such an under-performing product to use as a lube that I just couldn’t stand it. Greases ended up balling up the dust, and light lubes ended up being where I settles for most things.
Thing is ya gotta wipe it off once ion a while and re apply.
I haven’t experienced the oil acting as a vehicle carrying abrasive fines into the things being lubricated. I’m sure it does to some extent, but if I clean and re-lube I’m golden.

WD-40 IS NOT A LUBE
The majority of WD-40 is CAS 64742-47-8 wehich is a hydro treated paraffinic oil used as a solvent listed uses on page 474 “Handbook of GreenChemicals” By Irene Ash. She calls is a solvent for industrial and household uses, paint thinner, metal rolling, waterless hand cleaners – - yadda yadda yadda

There’s itty bitty bits of paraffin oils and dewaxed paraffinic solvents, and pump oil in it

It ain’t a lubricant it dissolves oils and greases and carries them away

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

I use wd-40 to REmove tar from my car. I use dry lube on my tools.

-- Don't rollerskate in a buffalo herd

When I worked as an Ironworker we installed roll-up doors. We used exclusively (silicone spray) because it didn’t collect and build up dust. But you might contact the manufactures to find out for sure, many brass products are impregnated with dry lubricants (graphite, etc). requiring no lubrication for its whole life, if thats proves to be true do not lubricate but give it an air bath on occation. (blow of gear assembly with compressed air).

-- another tip from cooperedpatterns

Another thread on this. Maybe there’s more useful info, there, too:

LINK

-- -- Neil

What part of the RAS are you lubing- the post? I have a mill in the barn with a vertical post similar to my RAS and I use chain lube in it. I have some silicone spray lube that I use for the ways on my Ryobi table saw and it works good. At first that saw used to stick so you could not run it all the way down. I took it apart twice and cleaned the ways and lubed them with the silicone spay and now I just vacuum all the dust away and spray the ways and crank them up and down while doing it and it works good for at least a year.

By the way, WD 40 stands for Water Displacement! If you have wet misfiring plug wires and dist cap. spray them with WD -40 and it will displace the water that caused shunting /shorting!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!!

Except for the table top I’d use graphite.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Cheaper is to toss a cup of diesel or kerosene on the wires.
That drives off the moisture from all those little cracks in the high voltage wires.

But truth be told no car should ever get that bad.
In the bad old days of distributor caps and tappets and leaky valve covers you could run a car with that kind of energy leakage but the newer computer run ones should not run if the spark plug wires are leaking that much energy.

I remember popping the hood of cars that didn’t want to start in the night time, back in the day when dinosaurs roamed the earth. The cracked and corroded wires would send out so much loose voltage all over the place it was like a high tech light show. Modern polymers are better then they used to be too.

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.