Need help with Porter Cable PC4210...PLEASE!

How thick is your material and you sure you have the depth set properly ? Takes a lot of dialing in and are you using the proper bit. You noted 7 and I believe thats it but it is proprietary with that jig.

The setup marks on the jig only get you close.

In order to dial in the setup for proper depth and offset you need to have some scrap boards that are exactly the same width and thickness as your project. Make a trial cut, make adjustments, cut the end off the test board and try and try again until you get it right.

The first few times I used the jig, it seems like it took me at least a half dozen tries to get it right. After more experience and usually hit the sweet spot in 1 or 2 trys.

-- Joe

Are you sure hou have the right bit. I think this jig takes a special bit.

Guys…do you have to use the PC bushing and dt bit? If so, I’m hosed because the jig was an open box item. I’ve done some searching online and it appears that amazon and eBay don’t carry the PC bushing or bit. Ohh man!

Any thoughts? If its not in the bit or bushing, is there anything else you can think of why the tails would be just slightly larger than the sockets? By larger I mean they are wider than the socket width. Depth and height are right on…it looks as though not enough material is being removed from the pins when the router guides along the template fingers. Should I switch to a smaller collar?

I’m out of even oddball, off the wall ideas.

If your using the bit and coller that came with the jig I would suggest buying a new router bit. I like the ones from rockler because they actually mesure the 17/32 that PC recommends and not the 16/32 the bit they give you with the jig.

That would be my guess as to what your problem is I always had a heck of a time with set up on mine until some one pointed out that PC sells this jig with the wrong sized bit.

also not all 7* bit are the same you need it to be 17/32 wide at the widest point.

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

We need photos

-- Joe

I know this is probably going to be an easy fix, but I just cannot figure it out (mostly out of frustration) at the moment. I am a deck builder and home rehab’er by trade… not much practice with fine woodworking.

Thank you for all your help and thoughts guys… I am very appreciative of you helping the “new guy”.

Again, I apologize if this is a remedial question… sorry for not uploading photos. I was typing that out last night on my iPhone.

No apology needed.
You do need the proprietary bushing and bit, but the pic has me stumped. I have the same 4210, and can’t understand how you prob is happening.
I’ll play with this one a bit (no pun) and see what might be goin’ wrong.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

Whoah! You mean WAY too big, lol. You’ve got the wrong size dovetail bit. The diameter is too small. I’ve got the same jig but different router. I can measure my actual bit if you like (PM me b/c I’ll forget, lol).

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

you are using the wrong size bit and coller again any bit and coller will work as long as they measure out to be 17/32 for the bit at 7* and 3/4” for the bushing. also looks like your bit is to deep but right now that the least of the concerns.

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

after my last post i got to thinking of the depth of your cut you need to raise the bit a 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch. this ma fix this problem. raising the bit will make your tais narrower and pin opening wider. it will also close the gap at the shoulder of the two pieces. try this first.

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more