Another Metal Use Question for cr1 or anyone else

You need to talk to August Lehman III, not that Cr1’s any slouch. August’s got a Bridgeport, etc. and works will all kinds of metal, including cast iron. He hasn’t been around for a while but he knows his stuff. Philip Marcou obviously knows his stuff, too, but he’s been in absentia for a while too.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I’m glad you have tried alumiweld with success. I bought some, but haven’t tried it yet. I use a lot of 6061-T6 aluminum and some 6063. I’m not sure if alumiweld works on aluminum that has an anodized surface treatment. I have done some repairs on aluminum aircraft panels, but they are time consumming. It involves cutting out a piece of the panel, inserting a patch with a backing plate and riveting it together. I think there are epoxies now that are formulated for aluminum. Try epoxies.com or 3-M.

Thanks Bertha, I’ll be happy to listen to anyone that knows more about it than I do.. which is just about everyone.

MrRon, This stuff is interesting to say the least. Here is a picture of my very first attempts:

A different angle:

Yeah, I know it’s not a spectacular job, but there is a short learning curve to it. Always remember to keep the torch moving and don’t use a high flame. Don’t put the heat on the rod, let the metal heat up and the rod will suck into it like silver solder.
I spoke with a friend awhile ago and he says he repaired the A/C condenser and the aluminum radiator in his little pickup when he ran a branch through it while out looking for mushrooms.

One question I thought of is if used with aircraft does it have to have an FAA certificate or something?

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

All you alchemists scare me. I wish I knew more about metalurgy. It is an art unto itself.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

Bill, the only alchemy I can perform is to turn gold into someone elses.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

If used on aircraft, it would have to be an approved procedure performed by a certified mechanic; may not be required for experimental aircraft.

I’m no metallurgist, but won’t you get galvanic corrosion with a copper and aluminum joint?

-- John

That’s actually pretty cool! Aside from cold forming (raising and sinking hollow shapes) and hot forging some Hunter/Jumper shoes, I’ve never worked aluminum and didn’t know you could join it with a MAPP flame. Was there a flux needed with this process? What’s the difference between the melt temp of the filler and that of the parent material?

I dunno, it looks to me like you got good flow on your joint there.

-- Leland, OC Calif., www.safetyshowerbars.com

you should get a galvanic reaction combining Aluminum and copper.

Drop a copper penny in the bottom of an aluminum hulled boat and you get a hole the size of a penny.

What happens when you intimately joint the two metals is something I’ve never wondered about.
Something happens I’m sure. What ?? I am unsure. Maybe the Galvanic action destroys the joint over time. Maybe not I don’t know.

aluminum and copper galvanic action

Meanwhile I gotta try that ALUMIWELD stuff

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

I did some research, (what little I could), and it seems this stuff has a high zinc? content.
Since it has a melting temp of @ 732°F, it’s pretty close to the melting temperature of aluminum itself, in fact, I melted some thin pieces of aluminum with the flame too hot

Leland, there is no flux required, but you do need a clean stainless steel brush. I have been using aluminum oxide sand paper to clean the base metal then brushing it well with the stainless brush. Once you have it clean, immediately put the heat to it or your work is wasted and you’ll need to start over because the oxides start up again as soon as you quit brushing.
Keep the heat moving between the pieces with more heat going to the thicker piece. Rub the rod on the hot metal until it starts flowing, then work it back and forth deep in the puddle to remove oxides as it goes. I switch ends often because it scratches better.
Keep the flame off the rod or you’ll end up with a very short rod.

Try it, it’s kind of fun to work with and it doesn’t take much rod to make a good joint.

I’ve also contacted the company about buying in quantities and becoming a distributor. They told me they have filled all the distributorships in this area, but that I could get a decent discount by buying in bulk.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!