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1/2" x 105" timberwolf blade not cutting straight inside the wood.

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 958 days ago 1097 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

3288 posts in 1108 days


958 days ago

This 1/2” timberwolf blade is the only blade that is giving me problems, when slicing through think 10” thicker wood this blade is all over the place in there and the only thing I can think of is that I’m not tensioning it tight enough, I have a 14” Grizz with the riser kit and when tighting the blade I start with a some what loose blade then 1/4 turns until I get the wobble out and a straight line but looking on the tension meter is not even showing on the 1/8 scale yet so that’s why I’m thinking I don’t have it tight enough, when I put my 3/4” It’s much…. tighter and have never had any problems with it. My experience with bandsaws in general is only a couple months so still in the learning curve.

Need some advise on this thanks
Blackie

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


17 replies so far

View Roger's profile

Roger

14096 posts in 1400 days


#1 posted 958 days ago

Is your upper and lower wheels co-planer? I would also check all your cool blocks, or bearings spacing. (a 1 dollar bill thickness). Also, you may want to slow your feed down. Maybe you are pushing too quickly. Let the blade do the work. Good luck.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2244 days


#2 posted 958 days ago

the ”until I get a straight line” sounds like you are not even close to putting proper tension on the blade. are you using the finger method (push finger against blade to check deflection under tension) to check for tension or are you simply relying on what the tension gauge on the saw shows?

I never rely on any of those gauges on these saws myself, but use my finger to check the blade. so far so good.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Eagle1's profile

Eagle1

2064 posts in 1660 days


#3 posted 958 days ago

I have to agree with the others here. I tighten my blade until its pretty tight. Then I raise the arm up all the way up.hen I start to tighten up the blade until I only move the blade sideways about 1/4 of a inch. There are also a lot of videos about tuning up your bandsaw. Hope this helps with the help of the others here.

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

View Donna Menke's profile

Donna Menke

567 posts in 2862 days


#4 posted 958 days ago

Tighten the tension until when you pluck the blade on the vertical support side of the machine it sounds like ‘twang’. I just put a new wood slicer blade on mine and I always use the same technique regardless of blade manufacturer. Whether a 1/16” or 3/4” blade this technique works for me. If the the blade goes ‘ting’ it is way too tight, and if it goes ‘thunk’ it is way too loose.

-- "So much wood. . .so little time!" www.woodworks-by-donna.com

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3288 posts in 1108 days


#5 posted 958 days ago

@cr1 Blade is a 4 TPI

Sounds like from everyone I’m to loose didn’t know anything about the finger trick, thanks for that info.

@Roger I am using what came with saw and am using the paper thickness between the guides also gauging the rear guide as well.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View jmos's profile

jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#6 posted 958 days ago

I’ve got two timber wolf blades also, although I haven’t used them extensively. It sounds like what Blackie was doing was following the procedure Suffolk Machinery outlines for their blades:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing/

They specifically state their blades take a lot less tension than most. I’ve used their method and ended up with tension that barely registers on the tension gauge for a 3/4” blade. I odn’t have problems with the cut wandering, but it does seem rougher than it should be. ??Next time I resaw I’ll crank it up a bit and see if htat helps.

-- John

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1276 posts in 1594 days


#7 posted 958 days ago

Also with a riser kit, you might be at the capacity of the tension spring. I upgraded mine when I put the riser block. I used the Carter Cobra Coil. No issues since then.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1637 posts in 1518 days


#8 posted 957 days ago

I have the 1/2” Woodslicer blades and like them. Only problem is: they do not last very long. I find them to dull quickly and then cut as you describe. I resaw a lot of cedar and some oak. Sounds like you need more tension on your blade. These blades cut the best I have tried, so I just change them often…...$$$

-- In God We Trust

View Donna Menke's profile

Donna Menke

567 posts in 2862 days


#9 posted 957 days ago

I used to think the Timberwolf blades were the top of the line- and in general they are, but since trying the Woodslicer I’ve used it the most for resawing. It is sweet. If I don’t have that one I use the 3/4” Timberwolf which tensions just fine on my 14” Jet without riser block.
Note: I don’t do that much resawing, but when I do I like a good blade.

-- "So much wood. . .so little time!" www.woodworks-by-donna.com

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1289 days


#10 posted 957 days ago

^I’m not a big Timberwolf guy either. I’ve had decent experience with small blades but the Woodslicer is clearly superior in my experience. The Lenox tri’s are my general blades.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3288 posts in 1108 days


#11 posted 957 days ago

I have no problems with 3/4” – 4 TPI it runs smooth and straight but of course I’m getting it much tighter, what I mostly resaw are logs, I’m running 11” – 12” dia hackberry and various other woods, slicing up 1 1/8” quarters. logs are generally 24” less in length.

Actually I was following the instrucstions that came with the darn saw, it states to lossen the tension until you see a wobble then using 1/4 turns increase the tension until no more wobble , I’m finding out now that’s a no no.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2715 posts in 1839 days


#12 posted 957 days ago

cr1: What saw are you running a 1” band on? Certainly not a 14” BS.

View Donna Menke's profile

Donna Menke

567 posts in 2862 days


#13 posted 957 days ago

WOW- cr1- you are hard-core!

-- "So much wood. . .so little time!" www.woodworks-by-donna.com

View Donna Menke's profile

Donna Menke

567 posts in 2862 days


#14 posted 957 days ago

Blackie- I’m usually for following instructions to the letter, but that didn’t work for me with the so-called low-tension blades.

-- "So much wood. . .so little time!" www.woodworks-by-donna.com

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3288 posts in 1108 days


#15 posted 956 days ago

I’m assuming cr1 has a larger then 14” bandsaw. Thanks for that info cr1 I’ll look into a lower TPI, also with the blade I have, I didn’t think I was feeding to fast, maybe I was but what if I payed more attention to my feed rate on the 4 TPI would that help?

@Donna, thanks I see right now I have questions for you if and when we ever come together at a meeting table :) how about sometime after the holidays? The low tension blades I’ve not had any problems with using the tension method I mentioned.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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