Raised panel mistake - what are my options

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Forum topic by BetTheFarm posted 12-05-2011 02:52 PM 1212 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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15 posts in 2645 days

12-05-2011 02:52 PM

Hello all. I spent several hours raising 48 panels for a wainscoting project. They came out great except that I am not happy with the depth of the final profile…I would like the raised panel cut to be a bit deeper. The problem is that I used a back cutter so if I cut the panel any deeper, the width of the edge will be too narrow to fit in the 3/8th inch rabbet.

I was thinking of cutting deeper anyway and shimming the final panels from behind (the back will never be visible). I usually use spaceballs for the final assembly. Any recommendations? Will some type of shimming work if the final panel groove is only about 1/4”?


7 replies so far

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13604 posts in 3340 days

#1 posted 12-05-2011 03:08 PM

that’s the way

they don’t need to be full filled back there
some strips cut to 2” – 3”
after the panel is in place
face down on the bench
if you can do that

some glue dabs
to keep them honest
spaced evenly around

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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706 posts in 3273 days

#2 posted 12-06-2011 07:44 PM

I would add material on two sides or two ends of each panel and make another pass. I would be concerned that, depending on the wood and size, and therefore weight, of each panel, the spaceballs might crush over time and the panel would rattle.

Just my humble opinion.


-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

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15 posts in 2645 days

#3 posted 12-06-2011 08:22 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I’m probably missing something obvious, but how do I “add material” given that the panel is raised in the front and grooved on the reverse side from the back cutter?

For what it’s worth, the panels mostly measure 8” x 20” each and are made of poplar.

View cabmaker's profile


1731 posts in 2808 days

#4 posted 12-08-2011 11:43 PM

Why were you backcutting a wainscot panel ? Just curious .

View DrDirt's profile


4424 posts in 3742 days

#5 posted 12-08-2011 11:47 PM

Shinmming will definitely work for wainscoating – you never will see the back side anyway

make a long piece of shim stock 1/2 to 3/4 wide and the thickness you want about 3 foot long sections to be easy to handle but any length is ok.
lay out the assembled panels -
Apply glue to ONE FACE of the shim and just slip it into the groove, score with a utility knife and snap it off – gluing the shim to the frame. do a few per edge of the panel

You could choose to glue to the panel but pick ONE and only ONE side and be consistent or you lose the whole floating panel concept and will have problems.

Good Luck

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

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15 posts in 2645 days

#6 posted 12-09-2011 02:15 AM

Cabmaker, I had to backcut the panel since the stock I used is 3/4” thick and the groove is about 1/4”. I guess I could have used thinner stock but it was not readily available. The shaper knives I have had a backcutter to be used in conjunction with the raides panel knife, so I used it. Admittedly, I’m a bit new at this…

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2969 days

#7 posted 12-09-2011 02:24 AM

How about shaving another mm from the front and ironing on preglued veneer edging on the back?. It depends on how much more depth you want. You could also change the groove in the rails into just a rebate, then plant slips on the back to hold the panel.

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