How to glue wood to steel?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by b2rtch posted 12-02-2011 04:44 PM 21942 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View b2rtch's profile


4847 posts in 2924 days

12-02-2011 04:44 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am making oak “covers” to put around metallic electric boxes.
In the past I have used spray on 3M contact glue to glue them, it made a huge mess.
Then I used Gorilla, it does not seems to hold very well.
Then Liquid Nail, it drips all over the place.
What would you use?

-- Bert

14 replies so far

View nailbanger2's profile


1041 posts in 3019 days

#1 posted 12-02-2011 05:03 PM

I have used liquid nail and you are right, it’s messy. I think I would try epoxy and lots of masking tape, green chemical resistant masking paper, and drop cloths. I’ve never tried it though.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View Bertha's profile


13495 posts in 2568 days

#2 posted 12-02-2011 05:05 PM

I’d probably drill a few shallow holes in the wood, scuff up the metal, and use epoxy. Liquid nails has been hit or miss with me. I’ve had it dry up and break free with temperature changes. Now I just use it to fill carpenter bee holes, lol.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View tenontim's profile


2131 posts in 3620 days

#3 posted 12-02-2011 05:11 PM

Try the 100% silicone caulk. That stuff will hold about anything.

View kizerpea's profile


774 posts in 2243 days

#4 posted 12-02-2011 05:18 PM



View Jeff in Huntersville's profile

Jeff in Huntersville

418 posts in 3070 days

#5 posted 12-02-2011 05:42 PM

+1 to the silicone. Plus if you ever need to remove it in the future, a little effort will allow you to. And it’s thick enough that it won’t get all over everything.

View DS's profile


2855 posts in 2296 days

#6 posted 12-02-2011 05:45 PM

Polyurethane construction adhesive is available at your Big Box Home Store. It works similar to Liquid Nails, but adheres to many more types of material and is more rigid.
This is particularly useful with stone, concrete and wood surfaces and is super strong when cured.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View b2rtch's profile


4847 posts in 2924 days

#7 posted 12-02-2011 05:52 PM

Thank you all

-- Bert

View Nomad62's profile


726 posts in 2833 days

#8 posted 12-02-2011 06:01 PM

I have used silicone automotive sealers for various glue-ups, it works well on almost anything; the only problem is its flexability, it tends to break down and off after some bumping. I think I would tend to use a good dose of hot glue sticks. Long time ago there was a product called “Shoe-Goo” that was the best glue for anything at all. Thick and sticky, it cured into hard rubber. Haven’t seen it for a while tho.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View MrRon's profile


4568 posts in 3119 days

#9 posted 12-02-2011 06:30 PM

You should wipe the electric boxes well with a solvent, like acetone or alcohol. Some adhesives don’t adhere well to a galvanized.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2950 days

#10 posted 12-02-2011 06:56 PM

Any time a question comes up about what glue works best for a given application, check out this website – -

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View jerkylips's profile (online now)


344 posts in 2445 days

#11 posted 12-02-2011 07:01 PM

could you drill through the metal & screw into the back of the oak? that way you wouldn’t have to worry about adhesives failing..

View b2rtch's profile


4847 posts in 2924 days

#12 posted 12-02-2011 07:03 PM

Thank you all


-- Bert

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2726 days

#13 posted 12-02-2011 08:54 PM

Shoe Goo has a relative in E6000 and whatever equivalent a crafts place like Michael’s has. (It will have an alphanumeric name.)

These products are a little easier to spread than silicone of the GE lineage.

There are also incredible double stick tapes, like those used for auto trim. If your surfaces are smooth and clean enough, these are totally unmessy.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2551 days

#14 posted 12-02-2011 09:08 PM

I used a polyurethane adhesive that came in a tube about like a tooth paste tube in size. It was labeled as
“Better N Nails” I believe. It was an excellent product. I put it in a stripped out hole in an oak door and put the screw in then let it cure. It is still holding 15 years later. I know it really should have had the hole drilled out and a dowel put in then a new pilot hole drilled but I was on a mission at the time and it worked. I would look for something like that.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics