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Forum topic by fred33 posted 11-25-2011 07:22 AM 940 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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fred33

4 posts in 1837 days


11-25-2011 07:22 AM

I have a piece of mesquite which I want to inlay with turquoise. Any advice on inlaying would be so GREATLY appreciated. This is my first attempt at inlaying I am going to use CA glue to set the stones. What is the best way to protect the wood from staining from the glue. I am also planning on using 100% pure tung oil for the finish, hand rubbing it. Any advice on finishing would also be appreciated. Should the be a finish put on top of the tung oil and if so what kind.
Thanks, in advance, for the help. I am very glad I found this site.


10 replies so far

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helluvawreck

23142 posts in 2328 days


#1 posted 11-25-2011 01:58 PM

Fred, I haven’t done any inlay yet but you can search for topics on Lumberjocks and you’ll probably find plenty of projects and blogs about it. Welcome to Lumberjocks and best of luck on all of your woodworking projects.

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

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tenontim

2131 posts in 3206 days


#2 posted 11-25-2011 03:47 PM

Most of the guys around here use epoxy to set the stones in. I’ve haven’t heard anyone mentioning staining problems from the epoxy. A tung oil (100% PURE TUNG OIL) finish just needs to be rubbed in, about a coat a day for several days. Start out with a 50-50 mix of oil and mineral spirits, and gradually decrease the MS until you have pure tung oil. You will have a satin finish when you’re done. You can put as many coats as you want, you may have to give a couple of days between coats, as you get more to the 100% tung oil. This finish is renewable, by just applying another coat every year.

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fred33

4 posts in 1837 days


#3 posted 11-25-2011 04:23 PM

Thanks, tenontim …...... so with epoxy, you build it up JUST over the wood and then just sand down the epoxy and stones? How do you keep the epoxy from spreading over the top of the wood? Awhile back I had heard of starting the finish with 1/3 BLO, 1/3 turpentine and 1/3 tung oil for the first coat them going to pure tung oil. Does that make any sense to you? Thanks for your help, it is really appreciated by this old rookie. I am a retiree just getting started back to woodworking.

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tenontim

2131 posts in 3206 days


#4 posted 11-25-2011 04:44 PM

Fred, the epoxy is fairly thick when you apply use it. It will stay in the cracks, just work from the center. Push the stones down below the surface so you can sand the epoxy without sanding the stones.

It think the finish you’re thinking about is 1/3 oil, 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 varnish. This will give you a nice finish, especially if you want to build it to a glossy-er finish. Use gloss varnish. You can start with a coat or two of pure tung oil, then start building this finish. This is a wipe on finish, so you’ll be wiping most of it off after each application, so be patient with the build.

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fred33

4 posts in 1837 days


#5 posted 11-25-2011 05:12 PM

Tim,

Thanks again. I have a feeling I will stay in touch with you. The mixture I was talking about was equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil, and tung oil. One coat of that, then just tung oil.

Fred

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Kent Shepherd

2716 posts in 2748 days


#6 posted 11-25-2011 11:10 PM

I use CA glue with finely crushed torquois, and epoxy for coarser stone. For small cracks, the fine is better. I press all the stone I can into the crack, then fill with thin CA glue. After letting that set, I start filling with medium Ca. It usually takes several times too get it level (actually raised) with the wood. I find it works better to level with a card scraper, although sandpaper works. For coarse stone,Tim was right on (about the finish too)

-- http://shepherdtoolandsupply.com/

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3680 days


#7 posted 11-25-2011 11:31 PM

Good advice from Kent and Tim.

As far as your worries about staining, I’ve never had a problem. I tend to get pretty sloppy with the adhesive, but I just sand everything level when I’m done.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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tenontim

2131 posts in 3206 days


#8 posted 11-26-2011 02:11 AM

I also forgot to mention, after seeing Kent’s post, you may get bubbles in the epoxy. I use a butane lighter to heat the epoxy a little and the bubbles will come to the top. Don’t get it too hot or it’ll get brittle. You still may have to do a couple of layers.

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fred33

4 posts in 1837 days


#9 posted 11-28-2011 03:00 AM

Tim, you have a great web site …......... GREAT work !!! Thanks to everyone for all the help.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4853 posts in 2275 days


#10 posted 11-28-2011 03:39 AM

For inlaying stone, I have always used heavy duty construction adhesive. After that is dry you can grout the stone with your choice of color.
Cheers

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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