LumberJocks

Milling wide boards with 6" jointer

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Michael J posted 11-21-2011 09:26 AM 2054 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Michael J's profile

Michael J

103 posts in 1932 days


11-21-2011 09:26 AM

Topic tags/keywords: wide boards jointing

Hey All,
I just wanted to pass along a tip I learned awhile back from one of the Wood Whisperer videos that worked really well for me when trying to mill some 9” wide bloodwood that was cupped on one side. It worked really well for me.

Here’s what I did:

1) Remove the jointer guard.
2) Run 9” wide stock through jointer as normal with the cup side down.
3) After about 4-5 light passes, with 6” of the stock jointed, use double sided tape and attach the board to 1/2” ply to the jointed part of the board.
4) Run the board through the planer with as many passes needed to flatten.
5) After the board is flattened remove from plywood and plane as normal.

This method worked really great for me. My apologies if this is a well known technique and I’m being redundant. I’ve only seen the planer sled technique mentioned for flattening wider boards than your jointer.

-- Mike Minneapolis, MN


16 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5939 posts in 2153 days


#1 posted 11-21-2011 02:17 PM

If I understand, there will be 3” of the width unsupported?
It didn’t tip when you ran it through the planer?

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2469 days


#2 posted 11-21-2011 02:58 PM

I use this method with a 1/4” piece of ply, with a stop block on the end to keep the board from slipping off of the ply, instead of tape. The board won’t tip, Gene. I don’t think I’ve done any wider than 9- 9.5”, so it may tip if you get close to equal sizes on and off the plywood.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5939 posts in 2153 days


#3 posted 11-21-2011 07:32 PM

Thanks Tim.
I’m gonna try it.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Michael J's profile

Michael J

103 posts in 1932 days


#4 posted 11-21-2011 07:37 PM

Gene,
You are correct. About 3” were unsupported. It was more than stable when I ran it through the planer. I think a good rule of thumb seems to be about 2/3’s your jointer width from what I recall from the video and my own experience. Give it a try. I was surprised that it worked so easily.

-- Mike Minneapolis, MN

View Adam's profile

Adam

46 posts in 1878 days


#5 posted 11-21-2011 10:53 PM

Mike,

Do you have a link to the video, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this.

Adam

View slimjim145's profile

slimjim145

10 posts in 1404 days


#6 posted 11-22-2011 04:14 PM

yes I second that Adam, a video would be nice!

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2373 days


#7 posted 11-22-2011 04:44 PM

+1 vote here. that’s a good streamlined technique to use on wider boards.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Michael J's profile

Michael J

103 posts in 1932 days


#8 posted 11-23-2011 09:40 AM

Adam,
I’m sorry I can’t provide a link to the video. I actually emailed Marc to see if he knew which video that was in, but he wasn’t sure either. If you tell me what part is unclear, perhaps I can try to better explain it to you in more graphic detail.

-- Mike Minneapolis, MN

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3515 posts in 1538 days


#9 posted 11-23-2011 10:56 AM

Thanks for the tip. I have heard that one before, but it was overcomplicated in the version I read. Your description is much better.
Another technique I use on the planer to flatten wide stock: Hit and miss plane one side, then flip workpiece and plane smooth. Finally, using the smooth side as the reference edge, finish planing the first side. While this is not truly jointing, I have been amazed how straight a well-sawn board comes out. When I inspect a stack of boards milled this way, I often can’t tell the difference.
Thanks again, Great Tip!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View bjmh46's profile

bjmh46

5 posts in 1661 days


#10 posted 11-23-2011 01:04 PM

One thing should be mentioned:

If your 6” jointer has a rabbeting ledge, as most do, you must make a shim plate to be placed on the infeed table after the first pass. Otherwise the un-jointed width of the board will ride the rabbeting ledge. I use a 6” wide piece of 1/8” masonite with a cleat attached to keep it from being fed into the cutterhead.

Regards
Bob

View Adam's profile

Adam

46 posts in 1878 days


#11 posted 11-23-2011 02:54 PM

Mike,

Thanks for trying. I think I need some pictures or video. For some reason I just can’t grasp it from a verbal description. I’m sure I will stumble across this method at some point.

Thanks,
Adam

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2409 posts in 2162 days


#12 posted 11-23-2011 03:22 PM

Adam, what he’s doing is jointing part of the board to get 6” flat. Then applying plywood to the jointed part to raise the whole board up. From there he can plane the top side with the ply making the bottom flat. After the top is flat in the planer the original side with the raised edge can be flipped over and planed. It’s a way to trick the planer to think the bottom is flat. Nice technique.

Hmm.. does that help? I used to be a teacher of 30 yrs. Everything is a teachable moment. Damn attribute I can’t shake. I turned my kids into physicists at the dinner table by the time they were 15. I had very patient and understanding kids.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View pvwoodcrafts's profile

pvwoodcrafts

226 posts in 2646 days


#13 posted 11-23-2011 03:45 PM

I use this method all the time only I don’t bother taping it to a piece of plywood before running it through the planer. just try to get the outside edges and the center of the board close to straight across as possible so that it rides through the planer supported so that it only cuts off the hump .I run the humped side through the planer then the jointed side.

-- mike & judy western md. www. pvwoodcrafts.com pvwccf1@verizon.net

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2469 days


#14 posted 11-23-2011 04:03 PM

I posted a blog, with pictures on how to http://lumberjocks.com/tenontim/blog/26637

View Adam's profile

Adam

46 posts in 1878 days


#15 posted 11-23-2011 06:06 PM

Thanks Guys! Now I get it. Filed away for future use.

Adam

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase