Rip Blade on Table Saw

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Forum topic by richgreer posted 11-20-2011 11:43 PM 2313 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2496 days

11-20-2011 11:43 PM

I use a combination blade (WW II) almost all of the time.

However, I have a lot of ripping to do so I decided to try a true Rip blade. It does cut faster. Of course, its brand new and my other blade probably not quite as sharp.

I’m noticing something with this blade. I’m getting more sawdust coming out on the top of the table.

Is this normal for a rip blade?

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

16 replies so far

View grizzman's profile


7782 posts in 2725 days

#1 posted 11-20-2011 11:56 PM

i really dont know…i know when i do my cutting with the heart pine that i have, i get more sawdust then i do on other woods…i wonder if the dust collector is not doing as well as it should…i doubt its the blades fault…but …like i said im not sure…ill be interested to see what others have to say on this as well…..

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View 1yeldud1's profile


301 posts in 2463 days

#2 posted 11-21-2011 12:25 AM

Are you using a standard table saw insert or are you using a zero clearance insert ??? I notice my zero clearance insert lets more dust out (Im assuming the restricted air flow around the blade accounts for this)

View ajosephg's profile


1878 posts in 2982 days

#3 posted 11-21-2011 12:26 AM

A factor is blade alignment, but I don’t know why a rip blade would be worse than a combination.

-- Joe

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 1908 days

#4 posted 11-21-2011 12:53 AM

Rip blades have a larger gullet and are spinning toward you. When the blade come out of the insert and into the wood it’s taking off larger and longer shavings compared to the small sawdust that comes from a cross cut blade. This stuff weighs a lot more and also can hang out the sides of the blade so as it tries to go back into the wood or the insert on the descending side it has a tendency to be torn out of the gullet of the blade.

*Caution: I can’t prove this theory, but it sounds good. Also, I’ve looked closely at the different sawdust my blades put out and have notice a big difference between a cross cut and a rip blade. Also looked at different kerfed blades.
I have a spankin’ new Onsrud thin kerf rip blade that will take shavings off like a hand plane if I do it just right on a thick piece of Oak. I never seem to have problems with it leaving saw marks or burn marks.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2496 days

#5 posted 11-21-2011 01:02 AM

Thank you for the responses. I think Dallas is on to something.

In response to some of the comments – - This is a relative thing. The rip blade is putting out more above the table saw dust than the combination blade I normally use. The dust collection would be the same for both and the blade alignment should be the same. I am using a standard table insert (not a zero clearance).

Another point – both my combination blade and my rip blade are narrow kerf – but I don’t see how that is a factor.

The wood involved has been both red and white oak.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#6 posted 11-21-2011 01:45 AM

Dallas hit on what is probably the primary contributor, but differences in tooth grind could also play a role. A flat top grind (FTG) takes a full bite of the entire kerf width of the teeth.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Bernie's profile


416 posts in 2258 days

#7 posted 11-21-2011 05:31 AM

To add on to what Dallas was saying (good stuff), rip blades are designed differently then combination or cross cut blades. Unlike the others, rip blades have teeth that follow each other in a thin straight line. Look at combination blades, one tooth is slanted to the right and the next is slanted to the left. I would think this gives room to chop the longer fibers, turn them into sawdust and thus into our dust collectors. Just an observation…

-- Bernie: It never gets hot or cold in New Hampshire, just seasonal!

View BurtC's profile


101 posts in 2551 days

#8 posted 11-21-2011 06:51 AM

I too use the WW-II for everything. It is a great blade and performs to my expectation, but the saw on table top is much more with zero clearance insert. I figure this is why they have overhead type dust collection for table saws available? I found having an air filtration unit running nearby helps alot and of course, a mask is a must.

View TNwoodchuck's profile


102 posts in 3197 days

#9 posted 12-31-2011 05:21 AM

For what it may be worth, on my way to your post (after much researching of DIY ZCI’s) I came across a tip that I’m going to try that claims to reduce the dust caused by using a ZCI. The suggestion was to drill a 1/2 hole at the front of the ZCI kerf where the saw teeth move downward through it. This then allows room for DC air and dust to be drawn into the saw body properly by the DC system. Can’t wait to give it a try tomorrow.

-- Chuck near Nashville - “All you are unable to give possesses you” (Andre Gide)

View gfadvm's profile


14929 posts in 2111 days

#10 posted 12-31-2011 05:26 AM

Chuck, Please post the results of this experiment. Sounds like a good plan but I’ll wait to hear your results before drilling mine.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2136 posts in 2530 days

#11 posted 12-31-2011 05:38 AM

I think Dallas is spot on. Rip blades cut more aggressively, so they won’t be bogged down. Your cut is less refined, so the dust produced is less fine, which means that more of it gets trapped above the surface and is more noticeable.


-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View isu1977's profile


31 posts in 2294 days

#12 posted 03-03-2012 05:14 PM

I tried drilling a series of 1/4” holes (20) in my zero clearance insert and this help tremendously.

-- Cy - Des Moines, IA

View C_PLUS_Woodworker's profile


601 posts in 2329 days

#13 posted 03-03-2012 07:16 PM

I have both Forrest WWII and one of their glue-line rip blades. I have noticed this same issue before myself. I was intrigued by the ideas just mentioned about holes in the ZCI.

I just went out and used the stock insert that came with the saw (Unisaw). Large blade opening.

I used both crosscut and rip blades with that open insert.

Much less sawdust on the table top with either/both blade(s) than with my close-tolerance ZCI’s.

Didn’t notice much difference in amount of sawdust comparing either blade.

I am definitely going to drill some holes in my ZCI’s.

Thanks you guys.

View ajosephg's profile


1878 posts in 2982 days

#14 posted 03-03-2012 07:34 PM

But—- doesn’t drilling a hole in the ZCI defeat the whole purpose?

I thought the ZCI supports the wood to keep it from chipping as the blade comes down. If the support is removed, then chipping can occur.

-- Joe

View isu1977's profile


31 posts in 2294 days

#15 posted 03-03-2012 07:38 PM

You drill the holes about 1/4” – 1/2” from the blade slot. You will still have the support to prevent chipout. The holes allow more air to suck up the dust.

-- Cy - Des Moines, IA

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