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Forum topic by SeaWitch posted 11-20-2011 03:06 AM 1369 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SeaWitch

149 posts in 1856 days


11-20-2011 03:06 AM

I have the Bosch Table Saw. Unfortunately, I have removed the guards and pawls because they interfere with most of what I do (with a sled). The splitter stays on.

My question is, do the pawls and guards really work? If I had them on all the time, would they prevent kickback 100% of the time?

thanks

-- When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it.”   Theodore Roosevelt


11 replies so far

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6852 posts in 2262 days


#1 posted 11-20-2011 03:09 AM

I leave mine on as much as I can. I’ve never had any kickback with them on. And the guard keeps chips out of my face and if I forget and lean over the blade, I’m not going to get injured.

But I HATE the thing. Still, I leave in on as much as possible.

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3680 days


#2 posted 11-20-2011 03:13 AM

I’ve had a coupe of occasions when I’m pretty sure the pawls stopped a kickback. I’m not saying I would have been injured without them, but they did their job.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5604 posts in 2693 days


#3 posted 11-20-2011 03:36 AM

I left the pawls out of my order when I got my current Shark Guard. I have had nothing but trouble with the OEM pawls as well as the Shark Pawls. Honestly, with a Riving Knife equipped saw, I didn’t find any need for pawls…

With a sled, I would clamp the work piece to the sled with something like an adjustable flip stop. My miter fence / sliding miter table has that sort of rig, and it’s priceless…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1061 posts in 3075 days


#4 posted 11-20-2011 03:46 AM

I bought a used contractor’s saw and, like 90% of all the saws out there, any protection devices were long gone.

That’s OK, it is what I learned on. My grandfather and father both ran their table saws “naked”. They were adamant about not standing in the cutting path, running the blade down beneath the table after every operation and wearing eye protection but – guards? pawls? Feh!

Recently I let someone use my table saw to cut up some stock. I finally threw him off the saw and did it myself. He just didn’t have enough respect for the blade. After the third time that his fingers got what I considered too close to the blade I couldn’t take it anymore. He also had a bad habit of standing directly in the path that any kick back would take including actually pushing stock through the saw with his belly at one point while his hands were occupied with keeping the wood against the fence. Stupid, stupid!

The only safety device that I have considered adding to my saw is a splitter. It is fairly unobtrusive and I have cut some stock where a splitter would have helped prevent “pinching” the blade. Anything else gets in the way of me seeing the blade which interferes with me keeping away from the blade.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Rick's profile

Rick

8287 posts in 2494 days


#5 posted 11-20-2011 08:58 AM

I have pretty well the same saw only by Ridgid. The Splitter is always on. Never had a Kick Back. The Pawls are a Pain to try and get on, but when they are on they work fine. 98% of the time they aren’t own, mostly because, as mentioned above, the Splitter probably prevents Kick Back.

What I like best about my So Called “Portable Contractors Saw” is the Vacuum Hook up on the back. The Blade is totally encased in the “Dust Chamber” and the Vacuum gets it all!

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2078 posts in 2101 days


#6 posted 11-20-2011 09:26 AM

Ridgid + splitter (riving knife) and magnetic featherboard whenever possible. Stand aside and let ‘er rip.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View Rick's profile

Rick

8287 posts in 2494 days


#7 posted 11-20-2011 09:55 AM

David:

You got that right!. For a saw of that size I was totally amazed the first time I fed a 4×8 sheet of G1S, 5/8” Fir Ply through it at a 2’ cut. Like Butter with the Stock Blade!

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2078 posts in 2101 days


#8 posted 11-20-2011 10:18 AM

Rick: Yeah, man. I really like mine. Some have had problems, but I guess we are just lucky somehow ;=)

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View SeaWitch's profile

SeaWitch

149 posts in 1856 days


#9 posted 11-20-2011 11:52 AM

Thanks for the replies, folks. Maybe I should put the pawls back on more. BTW, I’ve never fed a whole sheet of plywood through that little thing. Kudos to you!

-- When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it.”   Theodore Roosevelt

View Rick's profile

Rick

8287 posts in 2494 days


#10 posted 11-21-2011 12:19 PM

ME? ME? ...LOL… I posted on your Workbench SeaWitch. Hope it’s of some value!!

OH! My Saw Mounting. You might be at that stage??

See if I can find a Pic or 2. Right back. .....The colour’s gone a little Wonky but I’ll explain best I can.

The “Wheels” I mentioned on your other Post on not here as of the Picture. The Steel Legged Base is from my old Craftsman saw.

The 5/8” Plwood is attached to the Base with Nut, Bolts and Washers (3/8” Dia.). BUT! Under the Plwood at those points are 1/2” x 2”Dia. Neoprene Washers that I had lying around. Purpose is to Isolate Vibrations from the Saw down into the Steel Legs.

The Saw itself is also attached to the Top of the Plwood with Nuts, Bolts and Washers (3/8” Dia.) I had an Old Mouse Pad that I cut to the Profile of the Saws “Feet”, doubled it up and Bolted Down. More Vibration Isolation.

The Actul Saw, “leg” (Grayish) bolts where deliberately kept Easily Accessible as it’s “Suppose” to be a “Portable Contractors Saw”. I’ve done it three times so far to help out some Friends. OFF and AWAY in about 4/5 Minutes Max. (Socket Wrench And Spanner)

It’s a little Noisy at Start-Up but not a Problem. I might close off the Motor Side and some Insulation to quieten it down a bit.

That Blade Casing and Direct Feed to my BIG Shop Vac is a Blessing! Grabs about 97.567% of the Dust!!

WHAT!! 5:20 AM??? Time flies when you’re having FUN, I guess ..LOL…

Need any further explanation. Just Ask. My Pleasure.

Regards: Rick

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View SeaWitch's profile

SeaWitch

149 posts in 1856 days


#11 posted 11-21-2011 01:27 PM

Thanks Rick. The vibration insulation is a good idea. I’ve currently got the manufacturer’s wheel stand, so I don’t think I would change that unless I build a table around it, but I’ll remember the neoprene washers for future reference. I didn’t know that existed.

-- When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it.”   Theodore Roosevelt

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