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Toy Box Lid Support Problem

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Forum topic by RookieWorker posted 11-18-2011 06:12 PM 9961 views 0 times favorited 36 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


11-18-2011 06:12 PM

Guys this is my first post here because I need the advice of some guys with more knowledge on this stuff than me! I just finished building a toy box this week. I ordered 2 of the toy box lid supports from Rockler, both mount to the back wall of the box and up to the lid. I went directly by their installation instructions, but I didn’t realize the instructions are for a 3/4” back wall. When I installed them on my box the lid will not close all the way, likes about 4 or 5 inches from closing! I know this has something to do with my box not having a 3/4” back wall but I don’t know how to make these supports work for my box?? My box has a 3/4” plywood back wall and it has a piece of 1X4 Poplar trim all the way around the top attached to the back of the box. My piano hinge is mounted to the poplar trim. What can I do to make the supports work? I can post pics if it helps.


36 replies so far

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Rick Dennington

3385 posts in 1847 days


#1 posted 11-18-2011 07:20 PM

Well…..some pictures would help a lot, so we can get a better understanding of what you’re trying to explain….A couple of things… First you said that the box ”didn’t have a 3/4” back wall”, and then you said “my box has a 3/4” back wall”.....Which is it? And is the 1×4 Poplar just for decor? A piano hinge? I don’t get that…. If you use the lid supports (I take it you’re talking about the kind where the lid won’t slam, but are soft-close), then you don’t need the piano hinge, or the trim. You mount them directally to the lid and back, attach with screws, and that’s it…..Thatr’s why the lid won’t close….Take off the trim, take off the piano hinge, mount the lid supports like you’re supposed to, and you’re good to go….Post pictures for clarification…..

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


#2 posted 11-18-2011 07:43 PM

I see how that could be confusing! What I mean is the back wall of my box is made from 3/4” plywood but with the 1X4 poplar trim around the top, which is where the lid supports are mounted, it makes that area thicker than 3/4. The problem with just removing the trim is that its glued and nailed. If I try to remove that its going to damage the project pretty heavily I am guessing. I need to find a way to make these work without removing trim if possible. For a lid this size I don’t think it would be smart to remove the piano hinge and rely only on the supports to hold the lid on the box. Another note, the back of my lid is mounted flush with the back of the poplar trim. I am going to try and attach one picture of the box before the trim was added to the back and one after so you can see how it affected the thickness and maybe you can help then. Thanks!

View Builder_Bob's profile

Builder_Bob

160 posts in 1712 days


#3 posted 11-18-2011 07:54 PM

Are you sure this isn’t an Escher toy box?

-- "The unexpected, when it happens, generally happens when you least expect it."

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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


#4 posted 11-18-2011 07:57 PM

Have to excuse my ignorance, no idea what an Escher toy box is?? So i guess the answer to that is no??

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DS

2131 posts in 1073 days


#5 posted 11-18-2011 08:07 PM

You can make this work by lowering the mounting point on the back of the box.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


#6 posted 11-18-2011 08:09 PM

The piano hinge is mounted to the poplar trim, yes. I also read on another forum that it might be possible to take a small piece of the poplar I used for the trim and mount it to the under side of the lid where the supports attach to offset the thickness of the back wall? would that be an option?

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5299 posts in 1251 days


#7 posted 11-18-2011 08:12 PM

The piano hinge is not needed. If you mortise the needed space for the soft close hinge, you can get back to the needed 3/4”. However, I have used these hinges on several toy boxes, while they are nice, I find you may need more than two for a box of any size. They are kind of spendy. I have used another hinge from woodcraft, the name escapes me. it comes in a left or right hand version, and also acts as a lid support. Costs about $7 I think. That type of hinge can be used with piano hinges or the rockler soft close ones. Make sure all the pilot holes are centered and proper depth. I am not too impressed with the screws that come with them. But in plywood they should be fine.

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DS

2131 posts in 1073 days


#8 posted 11-18-2011 08:18 PM

Use the lid mount position as the center point—rotate to meet your new back. (Lower on the back panel.)
Don’t try to over complicate this…

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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Lifesaver2000

517 posts in 1765 days


#9 posted 11-18-2011 08:21 PM

Rookie, is this the item you are using?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=410&filter=toy%20box%20lid%20support

Or are you using the self supporting hinges?

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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


#10 posted 11-18-2011 08:23 PM

Lifesaver, that is it!

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DS

2131 posts in 1073 days


#11 posted 11-18-2011 08:24 PM

Is it this support?
(From Rockler website)

EDIT: Heheh – I shoulda’ refreshed my browser sooner—Lifesaver beat me to it! :-D

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


#12 posted 11-18-2011 08:26 PM

Yes, Thats the lid support I am using.

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ShaneA

5299 posts in 1251 days


#13 posted 11-18-2011 08:27 PM

That is the hinge I was referring to, it will need the piano hinge. I thought you had the soft close that go for like $38 a set.

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Lifesaver2000

517 posts in 1765 days


#14 posted 11-18-2011 08:32 PM

Ok, I wasn’t sure since a couple of people have suggested that no hinge is needed, but the picture on Rockler clearly shows it being used with a piano hinge.

Disclaimer: I am sitting around at work with nothing to do, have never used these things, and have just been researching your problem as a way to pass the time. But, I was always good at geometry :)

I think DS521 has the answer, but I think the idea of adding a block to the underside of the lid might work too. The problem I see is that if you used the stock dimensions for how far up the lid, and how far down the back to mount the support, then the support isn’t working at the angles it is designed for. So, either adjust the mounting distances as DS521 illustrated, or add or remove material to get the correct 3/4 difference in the mounting planes that the unit is designed for.

For those still interested, here is a link to the mounting instructions. I am assuming you are mounting it to the back, although it can be side mounted also.

Wow, that was the longest post I’ve made on here in a while.

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RookieWorker

23 posts in 1034 days


#15 posted 11-18-2011 08:33 PM

So DS251, are you thinking if I just leave the mount position on the lid as is and move the back wall mount position down it will work? Makes sense, and that would be alot easier than some of the other suggestions if it works! Guys, please have a little patience with me! I picked that user name for a reason! I am just a weekend/after work DIYer buiilding this for my son. First project here!

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