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Table Saw Blade will not raise or lower

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Forum topic by pjfox23 posted 11-13-2011 02:01 AM 3108 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pjfox23

3 posts in 1849 days


11-13-2011 02:01 AM

I have a Ridged 4512. Saw will not raise or lower. I do not know the terminology for this stuff, but I will try.

The shaft attached to the raise and lower handle spins freely, but it’s almost as if the teeth are not meeting the the saw body. Like the shaft itself needs to go in further.

See pics. Any ideas? I don’t see how I can raise the entire saw assembly to then push the shaft in further – it weighs a lot and is connect to the table top.


11 replies so far

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ajosephg

1878 posts in 3023 days


#1 posted 11-13-2011 03:10 AM

Looks like the shaft has backed out of position. Note the end of the shaft does not fully engage the bushing, or may be actually out of the bushing. If it is out of the bushing you should be able to push it back into the bushing if you get it lined up.

Then you need to figure out why/how it backed out. There will be some sort of retainer that holds it all together, probably in the handle assembly.

-- Joe

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pjfox23

3 posts in 1849 days


#2 posted 11-13-2011 06:12 AM

Thanks for the response. Any ideas as to how I might get the shaft in farther? I’ve tried pushing, soft and hard taps with a hammer. Nothing. Issue appears to be the actual main trunion gears are in the way, and I have no way of lifting that, or at least no way I can see.

Yes, I think you are spot on with something is missing – I found two metal items under the saw when I moved it to flip it over. Horseshoe-like washers. Looking at the 4512 parts diagrams, looks as if they are called “retaining rings”

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ajosephg

1878 posts in 3023 days


#3 posted 11-13-2011 06:19 AM

I think you are going to have to completely disassemble that part of the saw and find out what the root cause of the problem is. Even if you get the shaft back in, it will come out again.

If your instruction book doesn’t have an exploded view of the assembly, you should be able to download one from the web. I don’t have a Ridged, so I can’t help you with that.

Take photos as you go, so you can look at them when you forget how things fit, LOL.

Edit: I didn’t read your last post carefully. The horseshoe like washers are probably C clips, and they probably are used to hold the shaft in place. Could the two pieces be two half’s of a single piece? If so, that is the problem.

-- Joe

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Dragonsrite

136 posts in 2859 days


#4 posted 11-13-2011 06:52 AM

Referring to this …
https://www.gardnerinc.com/manuals/pdf/ipl/TTI/Ridgid_benchtop_manuals/table%20saws/R4512_988/R4512_988_r_01.pdf

... and looking at your pictures, you are missing both parts 79 & 80 … the retaining rings and spacers.

When you turn the handwheel, does the height adjusting rod move at all? If I’m seeing this right, you’ll have to back out the height adjusting rod enough to slip a spacer on … install a retaining ring on the inner most groove, slip on a spacer and then work the height adjusting rod into place. Hopefully you can just turn the handwheel … ummmm … I’m thinking counter-clockwise with the height adjusting rod lined up. I can’t tell if the teeth are engaged at all, but it’d be nice if they were. Once you get the rod in the proper position, pop on another spacer then the second retaining ring in the outer groove.

Make sure to clean things up a bit. Lube the bearing areas with … I think it was graphite that was the lube of choice. Lube where the teeth mesh too … basically anywhere that there are parts sliding against each other.

Lets see if you understand what I’ve said and then, if so … does it help??

Anybody feel free to correct me if I’m wrong in any of this.

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

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ajosephg

1878 posts in 3023 days


#5 posted 11-13-2011 03:13 PM

I think Dragonsrite is spot on. Good job on finding the manual. If the rod won’t turn but the handle does, then their is also a roll pin that is missing (See Figure E).

It would be helpful if you would remove the blade and belt during the dissasembly process if you haven’t already done so.

I use lubriplate grease for the bushings that are not exposed to saw dust, and spray on moly lube for the worm gears and sliding parts that are exposed to saw dust.

-- Joe

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Dragonsrite

136 posts in 2859 days


#6 posted 11-13-2011 06:33 PM

CR1..
While I agree that there should be a bushing, bronze preferred; the only bushing in the general area indicated by the parts diagram is on the opposite end near the handwheel (#82). I guess Ridgid elected not to provide for one.

PJfox..
The roll pin the Joe mentions, as I see it, would be part 74 (spring pin) which engages the fore-mentioned bushing and the height adjustment rod (81). These part #s would be on Figure A.

Joe..
If you’re talking about a different piece, please let me know which number on figure E it is that you feel may be an issue so I can follow along with your thinking.

Now some more thoughts…
In the first picture; is that the bushing (82) near the top just right of center? If so, I can’t see if the spring pin (74) is there.

And…
The height adjustment rod appears to have moved out of position by what… an inch maybe? Where’d that ‘inch’ go? Did the whole rod-bushing-hand wheel get pushed out? If the spring pin decided to visit another dimensional plane, how did the height adjustment rod move in the first place? With the pin gone, you couldn’t turn the rod to have it move unless there was rust or some such holding stuff together… then you’d be back to shoving the whole assembly towards the front of the machine again.

This is so much easier when I can stick my own phalanges in there.

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

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ajosephg

1878 posts in 3023 days


#7 posted 11-13-2011 10:45 PM

Dragonsrite…

You are correct, the roll pin is part 74. I had my wires crossed about Figure E.

While the parts diagram doesn’t show a bushing in the main trunnion (69), it may contain one, but it’s not removable.

In the first picture I think that is bushing 82 near the top and there is a hole in it for the missing roll pin (?) What isn’t clear in the parts diagram and the pictures, is how the adjustment wheel is attached to the adjustment rod. (I don’t think this bushing goes into the main trunnion because of its position on the drawing.)

It would appear to me that the only way for the height adjustment rod to get moved out of position as the photos show, the hand wheel would have also been pushed out, or at least the center part of it.

PJ – I guess you’ll just have to send some prepaid airplane tickets to Dragonsrite, CR, and me to come out and consult with you. Notice – I didn’t say we’d get our hands dirty, but we’d give you plenty of advice, LOL.

-- Joe

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Dragonsrite

136 posts in 2859 days


#8 posted 11-14-2011 01:52 AM

I prefer to drive; just need an address for the GPS. As for accommodations … just point me in the direction of the local eatery (reasonably priced eatery).

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

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ajosephg

1878 posts in 3023 days


#9 posted 11-14-2011 02:28 AM

Oh yeah, I gotta drive my new Town & Country.

-- Joe

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pjfox23

3 posts in 1849 days


#10 posted 11-24-2011 06:28 AM

Well problem finally solved. Thanks for all of the advice on the board.

As you can see from the attached photo, the shaft needed to be replaced to its original position. To do that, I had to remove the motor from the assembly, drive the shaft in farther, and replace the motor. This took a looongg time to get right.

Then, I had to repair the bent washers and retaining clips and re-install them.

I got to say, I don’t think this is the greatest design ever, especially since a pot metal washer is the only thing preventing the motor from coming off the shaft and not moving.

Anyway, thanks again all.

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Dragonsrite

136 posts in 2859 days


#11 posted 11-24-2011 06:41 AM

Happy to hear you got it fixed :-)

-- Dragonsrite, Minnesota

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