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Forum topic by DHaden posted 11-10-2011 06:14 AM 1177 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DHaden

73 posts in 1313 days


11-10-2011 06:14 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question walnut veneering

I bought 24 sheets of walnut veener off of ebay and it arrived last week. I have never worked with veneer before so I am not sure what to expect. It is not backed, is this an issue? It seems to be very dry, is this a problem, if so how do I remedy it. It also has some wave to it, will this come out if properly applied to a substrate? Any suggestions hints, tips and tricks will be greatly appriciated.

-- Measure once, cut twice.


8 replies so far

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1623 days


#1 posted 11-10-2011 12:33 PM

A lot depends on what size they are and what you are going to use them for. More details would help.

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Sawdust2

1467 posts in 2741 days


#2 posted 11-10-2011 12:49 PM

You can get a quick education on veneer and veneering by going to www.joewoodworker.com.
I never buy veneer that has a backing.
There are solutions that can be used to soften and straighten wavy veneer.

Veneer can easily increase your finishing skills.
Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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Nomad62

710 posts in 1612 days


#3 posted 11-10-2011 06:25 PM

Before you do anything with it you should look into vacuum bags and pumps. In my opinion it is by far the best way to apply veneers. There are many videos available, as well as do-it-yourself instructionals on how to make your own vacuum pump system for much cheaper than just buying one. It is somewhat expensive to make the initial investment, but the results are worth it in my opinion.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

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DHaden

73 posts in 1313 days


#4 posted 11-11-2011 08:20 AM

The sheets are 9×10.5. I have a few pictures of it but dont know how to add them.

-- Measure once, cut twice.

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1623 days


#5 posted 11-11-2011 10:18 AM

These are only small so I presume you’re going to be box making. Lots of people will tell you that a vacuum press is the only way to go. If, like me, you are only doing small things occasionally, and cannot justify a vacuum set up, there’s lots of great tips you will pick up on LJ’s.
Enter ‘gluing veneer’ in the LJ’s search pane and there’s page after page of advice on techniques and glues to use and what makes a good substrate. A great tip I was given by RBWoodwooker is to wet the veneer once its glued (and dried) to see if there are any glue free voids in it – if there are, they will bubble up and reveal themselves, you can then fix that by slitting the bubbles and injecting glue. Its better than waiting to find out they are there after you apply your final coat of finish.
Whichever way you go, make sure you try it on a test piece first, hope it all works out for you.

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EPJartisan

1056 posts in 1779 days


#6 posted 11-14-2011 04:30 AM

Personally, I don’t like using paper back, but i may be switching to double backed. I was introduced to a place in Southern Indiana that specializes in veneer product (But love to order from Certainly Wood out of New York) I dislike that the paper shows if I am applying only a surface veneer and the edge shows. What is the thickness of the veneer? and Is it “figured” veneer? I prefer to use the veneer softeners and vacuum bags for figured veneer.. I find bubbles to be a PITA! but fixable. the nice thing about clear vacuum systems is that you can use a veneering hammer to pound out bubbles before the glue sets. Yet for decently flat veneers I can clamp with cork board covered press boards and cross bars.

The search feature on here is really useful, but one problem is that we tend to find great info in the postings if there was a way to search those as well. hmmmm But then people will give advice no matter.. I do enjoy this site.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

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shipwright

4966 posts in 1452 days


#7 posted 11-14-2011 07:27 AM

Do some searches on “hide glue” and “hammer veneering”. There are some very good utube videos. Vacuum bags have their place as do screw presses but hammer veneering will give you a lot of options you can’t get with the others. I use all three and would encourage you to check out and experiment with all the methods. You will find that you have your own preferences.
As for bubbles, with hide glue you just iron them out…..too easy.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

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jumbojack

1182 posts in 1278 days


#8 posted 11-14-2011 07:44 AM

Here is how I did my recent veneer job on four Jewelry Boxes. I used 1/4” ply substrate. I sanded and wiped the surface down with mineral spirits. I spritzed the veneer with plain tap water and pressed the veneer between sheets of wax paper and a press I made from 1/2” MDF and four cauls (two on top and two on the bottom. I clamped the sandwich with eight clamps, clamping them down pretty hard. I left the slightly damp veneer in there for 30 minutes. I then applied a thin coat of Titebond Veneer glue to the ply and extracted the veneer from the clamp and immediately laid it on the glued up ply. Using fresh wax paper put it back into the sandwich clamp and left it there for three hours. They came out flat and beautiful.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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