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Forum topic by Milo posted 11-09-2011 08:01 PM 1114 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Milo

859 posts in 2010 days


11-09-2011 08:01 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resource question

Does anyone know how long hide glue is good for, and second, if the dry hide glue I found is still good, does anyone remember there “recipe” for hydrating it and making use of it?

I was cleaning out some stuff the other day and found a bag of dry hide glue, and after seeing a video on board glue ups by Christopher Schwartz, I thought it might be fun to try it.

Thank you,

Milo

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...


13 replies so far

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Milo

859 posts in 2010 days


#1 posted 11-10-2011 08:03 PM

CR1, do you know if there are any convenient place to buy urea or glycerine which you don’t usually think off so I don’t have to waste any time mail order?

Milo

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3500 posts in 2651 days


#2 posted 11-10-2011 08:50 PM

Don’t know about the urea, but glycerine is available a the drug store. I buy it when I’m doing caneing. Might wanna check out your local store.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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a1Jim

112335 posts in 2267 days


#3 posted 11-10-2011 09:12 PM

Cr1 That’s some great info . I was wondering what your thoughts were about the premixed Hide glue that Franklin and titebond makes? Is there a big difference in the premixed? Is it still reversible by heating it up?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1613 days


#4 posted 11-11-2011 02:07 AM

Check out woodtreks.com. The vid there on hammer veneering has a lot of info about hide glue.

-- Life is good.

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

2440 posts in 2218 days


#5 posted 11-11-2011 03:08 AM

Jim,
There is some information on the bottled titebond here:
http://www.titebond.com/ProductLineTB.asp?prodcat=2&prodline=5

It says:
“Its sensitivity to moisture allows for easy disassembly of parts”

-- “While the world with closed eyes sleeps, The sky knows and weeps - steel rain. ” ― Nathan Bell

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StumpyNubs

6242 posts in 1491 days


#6 posted 11-11-2011 03:26 AM

I believe hide glue is good until someone finds it… but I could be wrong abot that…

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

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Mark Shymanski

5113 posts in 2403 days


#7 posted 11-11-2011 06:12 AM

Ahhhh Stumpy that was just awful…LOL!

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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Howie

2656 posts in 1613 days


#8 posted 11-11-2011 10:51 PM

Stumpy…you been sniffing the super glue again? That was bad…..

-- Life is good.

View derosa's profile

derosa

1556 posts in 1526 days


#9 posted 11-12-2011 05:23 AM

I’ve been using the tightbond hide glue and I’m only somewhat satisfied with it. It really does need to be left alone for 24hr in order to properly set. I’ve been working on a toddler bed and after 12 hours glue time I undid the three large clamps holding it all together and didn’t focus on loosening them all evenly, the end result was that two of the joints slipped a tiny bit out and I didn’t notice till the next day. Originally I thought I just hadn’t made the joint good enough but I caught it happening after gluing up the foot board and could correct the problem while the glue was still tacky. Once it is dry it seems as strong as TB II and III but the longer drying time when you have a regular clamp shortage is annoying.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

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shipwright

5096 posts in 1488 days


#10 posted 11-12-2011 08:42 PM

If you really want to get in on the many advantages of hide glue, use the real thing. It’s not that hard to use, it only sounds that way. Since I started using it, I rarely use anything else. One of the great advantages for me is that I’m a little impatient and setup time to a reasonable strength is almost immediate.

If you want a little more time and less effort (a liquid form) try “Old Brown Glue” from Patrick Edwards http://www.oldbrownglue.com/. You will be buying a glue specially formulated by a master craftsman who uses hide glue every day.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Milo's profile

Milo

859 posts in 2010 days


#11 posted 11-01-2013 10:00 PM

OK, I’m bumping this for TWO reasons.

I need the formula again,

And WHAT HAPPENED TO CR1??? Why is his comment gone, and I can’t find him in the Jock list?

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5096 posts in 1488 days


#12 posted 11-02-2013 12:17 AM

Check out this blog.

There’s no specific formula. You are working for a consistency as shown in Patrick’s video above (also in the blog).
Put your dry glue in a bowl, jar or whatever and cover it with water. I use about an inch or so of dry glue granules in the bottom of a 1 liter yoghourt container and add water until it is a good 1/4” over the glue. Leave it until it is a gel and then heat it. At 140 degrees do Patrick’s string drip test. If it’s too thick, add a little hot water. If it’s too thin, just let it cook a bit. It will thicken. The way I mix it usually results in a little too thick which is the easier fix. Thin is good as the water holds the heat. Most people have a tendency to mix too thick.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Milo's profile

Milo

859 posts in 2010 days


#13 posted 11-02-2013 02:26 AM

Yeah. That’s what I was thinking too, after I left the note and started thinking about it…

I DIDN’T remember the temperature though. Thanks a lot, Paul!

Milo

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

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