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Vintage Craftsman Sabre Saw

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Forum topic by DannyBoy posted 2277 days ago 11036 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DannyBoy

521 posts in 2463 days


2277 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: jigsaw

I know there has to be an old timer out there that can help a young buck like me out on this one…

I picked up about a month ago an old all metal (steel, I think) Craftsman sabre/jig saw at a garage sale (Model: 315.26750; 3.0 amps). Motor runs well and it seems to be in good order. The (for lack of a better word) collet where the blade attaches appears to be missing a screw. At the moment there is only one screw there but two holes. So, I can attach a blade (one that has a hole to be screwed in), but where it seems there would be another place to hold it in the blade is completely loose.

Any suggestions?

~Danny Boy

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/


16 replies so far

View Max's profile

Max

55956 posts in 2871 days


#1 posted 2277 days ago

Danny,

I checked on Sears Parts Direct online and found it has a blade holder with screws. Here is the link for your saw.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveModelActionHome!retrieve.action?modelNumber=315.26750&pop=flush#diagram

The key number for the part you want is number 78

It says you need to call them for availability. I don’t know of any other place to find what you need. Hope they have one in stock.

-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT

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DannyBoy

521 posts in 2463 days


#2 posted 2277 days ago

Dude! That’s sweet. I went looking all over for this (even the sears website) and could never get it to come up. Thanks a huge lot!

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

View DaveH's profile

DaveH

400 posts in 2376 days


#3 posted 2277 days ago

I own one of those vintage craftsman saber saws and I’m thinking mine only has one screw. I’ll check it tonight and let you know. I replaced mine with a bosch a couple of years ago. I was amazed how much the vibration was reduced when cutting with the bosch.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

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TomK

504 posts in 2472 days


#4 posted 2277 days ago

Too bad, I just trashed one of like that a few months ago I had inherited. All bright steel body, worked for a liong time, but started arcing like the insulation was breaking down.

-- If you think healthcare is expensive now, wait until it's free! PJ O'Rourke

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DannyBoy

521 posts in 2463 days


#5 posted 2277 days ago

I’m planning on refurbishing this one to be useful around the shop. If I can get it in general working order, I’ll be taking it apart and checking pieces, oiling gears, and making sure the electronics are all good in it. I love the look of it. Tom, that bright steel body is what I originally liked.

It probably won’t be the last one I ever buy, but I betting on it being a work horse for some of the harder jobs. (Yeah, I’m crazy.)

~Danny Boy

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

View TomK 's profile

TomK

504 posts in 2472 days


#6 posted 2277 days ago

I like the look too, but it zapped my son enough to numb his arm, didn’t have a proper ground. Should have saved it for it’s sentimental value, but that’s why my garage look so cluttered, :)

-- If you think healthcare is expensive now, wait until it's free! PJ O'Rourke

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2342 days


#7 posted 2277 days ago

I think some of the old saws had two screws and you had to tighten both sides to keep the blade tight. You don’t want the screw going through the hole in the blade. It is meant to clamp the blade in the saw.

View grumpycarp's profile

grumpycarp

257 posts in 2343 days


#8 posted 2277 days ago

I hate the orange box but last Sunday they had a Bosch 1587 jiggy with a r.o. sander thrown in for like 120.00$ Both triple grounded and the jig uses tool free blade changing.

View rollei35guy's profile

rollei35guy

1 post in 2013 days


#9 posted 2013 days ago

I found one of these saws at a thrift store and when I searched I found this:

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml85/85004.html

It was recalled for a faulty replacement circuit board.

View jimbo2's profile

jimbo2

3 posts in 635 days


#10 posted 635 days ago

Like Danny Boy, I have a Craftsman Multi Speed Scroller Saw Model 315.26710 that I bought new in 1968. It has never been repaired by Sears. A lot of oil leaked out of it about 20 years ago, and I never replaced the oil and have no idea how to go about doing it. Does anybody know if I am in danger of getting an electrical shock, and how do I go about replacing the oil. I used the saw recently, and it seemed to run ok. My saw has two screws holding the blade tight and neither go through the blade.

View JIMBO54's profile

JIMBO54

1 post in 291 days


#11 posted 291 days ago

Have the same saw.Mine has 1 pin on top and a screw to hold blade into place.I am having trouble finding blades.Can anyone help??

View olddave's profile

olddave

1 post in 226 days


#12 posted 226 days ago

Any universal replacement blade(non “T” top) will work. The “T” top mainly fit BOSCH saws .Does anyone have a broken or “junk” 315.17280 saw. I need the top bushing KEY #1, but I will buy the entire saw.

View jimbo2's profile

jimbo2

3 posts in 635 days


#13 posted 226 days ago

DannyBoy, do you have any information on how much and what type of oil to add to your Sears saw?

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1374 posts in 318 days


#14 posted 226 days ago

I got this exact same saw alone with several other things from my grandpa workshop. Finally got a chance to tear it down and try to figure out what it needed to work again, the armature assembly threw a couple bars off the commutator and the assembly is no longer available, neither are the brushes. The brushes aren’t nearly as big a deal as I have more than a few that I could fabricate to make fit this saw, but the armature no longer available is a real bummer. Would anyone happen to have one?

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2716 posts in 1841 days


#15 posted 225 days ago

Something similar to wheel bearing grease should be used in the gear case; not oil; too thin.

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