finishing question--cutting board that I am re-finishing...

mineral oil. It’s a food safe finish and it’s the only one I can think of. It’s what they use on cutting boards because it’s the only food safe finish. You can pick it up from Wal-Mart, Wal-Greens or any other Wal-place.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I agree. I have made cutting boards and chopping block counter tops. Mineral oil is the only way to go.

-- Berta in NC

For my own kitchen, I use Walnut Oil because it dries hard, and, like mineral oil it doesn’t go bad at room temperature. However, I have no experience with what that might do to people with severe nut allergies.

For the cracks, I think you’re stuck until it breaks, except that since Walnut oil dries hard, you could oil the cracks and then sand over them to fill ‘em with a sawdust/oil combo.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

The use of the finish depends upon the use. If the board is actually going to see knives used on it, I would use either mineral oil or walnut oil, both of which can be refreshed over time by just adding more oil. Another option is shelac, but since it builds up on the surface, it is prone to chips from knife use. I personally use Walnut oil. I like the deeper amber color it has over mineral oil and it takes less time to dry to the touch.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV

i would use a salad bowl finish. thats what Charles Neil recommends. the mineral oil as he said NEVER dries, and he went over that and has proof in his video. really any finish is safe though as the only one that will dissolve in your body when fully curred is shellac and that won’t hurt you. to be safe though i would go with a salad bowl finish. i know that General finishes makes a good one.

Ditto on the mineral oil. It’s a mild laxative but not in the residual amounts that end up on a cutting board. On my own cutting boards, I use extra virgin olive oil. They get used enough and washed enough that they’ve never gone rancid as some might imagine or suggest. I live in central FL where 100 degree heat and 100% humidity are not uncommon still I use them everyday and oil them only when the surface begins to look dried out.

always,
J.C.

-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir

I use pure Tung oil with orange solvent (50:50) that I get from www.realmilkpaint.com on all my turned bowls. But I’m not sure if you can get this locally.

Check out the Wood Whisperer’s site on cutting board finishes that he uses.

As far as the slpit, I’d use epoxy to fill it it with some wood dust for filler.

-- Charlie in TN, looking for his tools...

Yep, as usual the teenager is right. General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. Soak it in until it won’t take any more.
You can thin it with mineral spirits if you like, but make sure you flood that board. Then in the future—as needed—you can top it off with mineral oil, or if you like, Butcher Block Oil (which is about a $6 bottle of mineral oil!)
Other posters are correct, walnut oil WILL work if not for those pesky allergies.

-- Kinky Friedman on gay marriage: "They should have the right to be just as miserable as the rest of us."

thanks everyone…i was at work all day and could not log on…but was dying to see what everyone said…

-- Matt--Proud LJ since 2007

I really have nothing more to add, just thought I’d say hi. (I do use mineral oil, though, because it’s readily available, cheap…a prerequisite for me… and it works. -SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

Hi Matt.

For the Finish, I think tht the guys have covered the subject quite well, I personally use Liberon Finishing oil rubbed down between coats 3 to 4 for a really good protection, 5 to 6 for a high grade piece that will shine like a mirror when presented to the customer.

As for the small splits inthe wood – get them filled, the plits are a great place for bacteria to live and breed. I would flush them out (on a used cutting board) with bleach, then wash the joints with clean watwer, let them dry. Then fill them with an epoxy and sanding dust mix (to match the wood being filled) to colour the epoxy. This works for me with no problems over the years

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

thanks tony…I will talk to my neighbor and share the concern on bacteria…on the bottom where the cracks are there was black stuff that we both figured was some sort of mildew…and I sanded it all away (with my mask)...but of course it could be down in the cracks…which are very small…almost hair line…I am not sure if epoxy will get there—-is wood putty a form of epoxy???

-- Matt--Proud LJ since 2007

Another option to filling the cracks is to apply thin CA glue and sand with 220 grit. This produces fine sawdust and the CA glue dries quickly. It may have to be repeated to completely fill the cracks but the thin CA glue should wick down into the cracks.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

Scott is right-on about the CA glue. I’ve mended small fissures and cracks in a bunch of things and they hold up very well.

always,
J.C.

-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir