Ebonized wood finish?

I think he used metalized acid dyes. They won’t fade with time.

Check out his FAQS:
http://www.djmarks.com/channels/djmfaq.asp

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I just copied and pasted this from the link directly below. I have done several of this man’s patterns, and although i am not sure this is what you are looking for, I actually tried this and was totally amazed at how beautiful my wood turned out. Please check out his link here.
I hope this helps PEACE!!!
Allison
http://www.wildlifeintarsiadesign.com/default.htm http:
“INTARSIA TIPS ON-LINE” – #2

NEW TIPS FOR EBONIZING WOOD

Recently I’ve experimented further with the ebonizing walnut technique and tried it on other species of wood.

The ebonizing solution is made with two common products: vinegar and steel wool. A plastic jar with a plastic lid is best to use because the lid won’t rust (see Photo 1).

Photo 1

New and improved

To make ebonizing solution put a coarse steel wool pad in the jar and pour in enough vinegar to cover it, loosely screw the lid on the jar. If the pad is not totally submersed rust will quickly form on the portion exposed to air. After about twenty-four hours pour the vinegar in another jar. Don’t squeeze the vinegar out of the pad or you may get bits of metal in the liquid, which will rust, then just brush the solution on the contoured project pieces you want ebonized

I’ve found the best results come from mixing a fresh batch of solution as you need it, rather than saving it for a long time.

I don’t know if this solution is toxic but it certainly can’t be a good thing to ingest so be sure to label the jar and keep it out of the reach of children.
Interesting effects

Besides ebonizing walnut you can get interesting results on other species of wood (see Photo 2). It surprised me how many species of wood turned black, and the open grain of oak had a nice two-tone effect.

Photo 2

Diluting the solution with water creates a lighter shade of grey on maple (see Photo 3). On the top of the curly maple block shown I mixed two parts water to one part solution, while the bottom was treated with full strength solution. You may want to experiment further with this.

Photo 3

Finishing
Again these are not my words , they are
PEACE!!!! fro the link above

After applying ebonizing solution with a brush, I let it dry overnight. If the grain is raised, lightly go over it with a non-woven abrasive pad or a sanding mop with 180-grit abrasive. The only finishes I’ve used over ebonized wood is Delta or Krylon spray, they both worked fine. If you prefer using another type of finish try it out on ebonized scrap wood first.

-- Allison, Northeastern Ca. Remember, Amateurs built the Ark. Professionals built the Titanic!

I have talked about this to friends several times and want to try it this year. Thanks for posting the question.

-- "so much to learn and so little time"..

These are the pictures in order for tips # 1, #2, and # 3 This is to snowdog who pointed out the pictures did not post,
PEACE!!!

-- Allison, Northeastern Ca. Remember, Amateurs built the Ark. Professionals built the Titanic!

I have talked about this topic before. It is called iron buff. If you use steel wool, be sure to rinse it in lacquer thinner before immersing it in the vinegar (white), because steel wool is coated with a fine sheen of oil. If you want a really dark stain, let it stand for a week. Strain it through an old tshirt and again through a coffee filter. I have been experimenting with this for a while and will soon post some clocks finished with this technique. After applying, you will get a flat matte surface with raised grain. I sand this surface with 1200 wet/dry sandpaper (dry) and wipe it down with a tack cloth before final finishing. It will take any additional stain or varnish, etc. nicely. The one thing you have to remember is that you have to take your piece to final finishing stage before applying this stain.You cannot do any additional milling or sanding other than what I described or you will go through the finish. The good thing about iron buff is that it is a chemical reaction rather than an applied stain so your finish will always perfectly even with no dark spots, blotches, etc. As always, bbqking

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

David Marks used the metalized acid dyes like GaryK said. The vinegar and Steel wood is always an option along with other chemical processes but as David Marks said why deal with all the odors and messiness and protection needed when we have such good dyes today that can do the same thing.

probably the cost of dyes versus vinegar and steel wool might have something to do with it….I think I will give it a try as I work with tiger maple all of the time and tried to ebonize a clock with indigo ink as was recommended to me by someone that I don’t talk to anymore ; )

-- Dusty56@comcast.net

I’ve heard the that the dyes leave a purplish hue to the wood. One of the ways that has been put forth to avoid this is to use India Ink. I haven’t tried this yet but it seems to be the way to go. What ever meathod is used, I would probably recommend using a final finish of poly or some other finish that has good uv protection to help with fading.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV

I’ve gone the dye and steel wool/nail route and prefer the dye for its simplicity. Greg made a good point about India Ink. From my understanding (which is little), some comments I’ve found mention using the ink as a final colorant after the dyes. Time to expriement I suppose.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

thanks for all the info and links! I’ll give it a try on my next project. WIll let everyone know how it goes.

-- -Mark Foster, MD www.juliakilduff.com for our art/wood

There is also a product you can purchase for ebonizing violin fingerboards called “Ebonholbieze” (not sure of the spelling. Try this link, although they don’t use that name:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Colors,_tints,_and_stains/Black_Fingerboard_Stain.html

-- There's no tool like an old tool...

Greg3G is right about the India Ink. I was just reading Charles Neil’s monthly newsletter and he mentioned that and said to put a “slug” of India Ink in it. I remember David Marks mentioning that too.

Our good friend Charles Neil recommends a black die/stain with the addition of indian ink—he talks about it here

-- David - Houston, Texas.

i use a lot of tiger strip maple and ive experimented a lot with darrens system with some very cool results .
mine were quit different than his but quite interesting . i can post photos if anyone wants them

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/2870

-- if you aint the lead dog the scenery never changes