Affixing to metal studs

That’s a good one. I suppose you may have to use Toggle bolts as you said.

Every solution I can think of requires you open the wall and install real lumber or some kind of angle bracket to the metal stud that will hold a self tapping screw more firmly.

Maybe you should just bite the bullet and rill a big hole.
However – - – -use a brad point drill or a small hole saw because there’s a fair chance that a regular twist drill will catch on the thin metal as it pierces through and rip it up making it necessary to open the wall to fix.

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

Garriv, im the commercial world they typicall install blocking within the cavity of the metals studs so they have something to attach to such as a sink, toilet, cabinets, etc.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

How heavy of things are the shelves and the contents? Generally they use self tapping screws to hold the sheetrock to the metal studs so maybe you could try that?

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

Are you using coarse sheet rock screws, or fine?

Drywall screws come in two types of threads.
Coarse threads are for attaching drywall to wood studs.
Fine threads are for attaching drywall to metal studs.

The same concept should apply to attaching anything to a wall stud system.
It’s best to use self drilling, fine thread screws.

For mounting to sheetrock (drywall) directly, light loads, I like self drilling anchors. They have very deep threads on the outside and regular internal screw threads with a screwdriver slot for installation.

Tap in plastic wall anchors work fairly well also.

For heavy loads on sheetrock walls with metal studs it’s best to use a cleat which spans several studs.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

I agree with chrisstef, any kind of wall load requires wood blocking installed inside the wall.
A base cabinet resting on the floor can be attached with drywall screws or anchors.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

Thanks guys, I appreciate the suggestions.

you can use long “drill tip” screws. They will go into metal very well. Instead of toggle bolts I would use the plastic, screw in, shields that you can then run a wood screw into.

-- In God We Trust

One thing to be careful of when using screws in metal studs, is don’t try to overtighten the screws. It takes a little feel to get used to using screws in metal studs. Over tighten and they will strip out very easily. Putting up sheetrock and having one strip out now and then is probably not a big problem, but hanging something heavy can cause a real problem. Having worked along the coast a number of years, most of the condo’s used metal studs in construction, so had to get used to working with metal studs. They can be a pain in the butt, but I really never had a problem with anything coming loose.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

How about using some washers?

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

http://www.lowes.com/pd_115648-10337-50400_0__?productId=3183821&Ntt=toggler+wall+anchor

Toggler wall anchors work well.

You can get chisel point screws. They are hardened and black
like drywall screws but the points will pierce steel up to about
16 ga.