Jointer issues - Technique or setup?

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Forum topic by TheKingInYellow posted 10-21-2011 04:06 PM 1560 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View TheKingInYellow's profile


233 posts in 3764 days

10-21-2011 04:06 PM

I was jointing some 8/4 hard maple last night and I have two questions:

1. I’m finding I really need to push the wood through, where I expected it to glide more. This occurred with softer woods too, like cherry and walnut. Is this indicative of needing to sharpen the blades? The jointer is new this year and should only have, maybe, 200 or 300ft of boards through it. How often should I be sharpening?

2. I’m making wedges somehow. What I’ve done is marked the whole face with pencil so I can see what’s cut and the trailing edge always seems to be uncut. I run the board through four or five times and the trailing edge is always left with pencil marks on it. If I measure thickness, the leading edge can be as much as 1/4” or more thinner than the trailing edge. I know the jointer does not make faces parallel, but I am only jointing one side and somehow or another the trailing edge is always left unjointed. Is this a technique issue or a setup issue?

Thanks for any advice!

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

4 replies so far

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2718 posts in 3520 days

#1 posted 10-21-2011 04:40 PM

1. Do you wax the bed on the jointer? That will make a huge difference.

2. It is probably a set up issue, although technique does play a part. The Wood Whisperer does a good video on jointer set up. Search Ljs for it and other information. I won’t go into all that since it has been covered well several times but if you have questions, just ask.

A properly tuned jointer is a pleasure to use, but can be a nightmare if it is not right.


View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2924 days

#2 posted 10-22-2011 04:33 AM

Lighter passes should allow the wood to ‘glide’ easier. Always joint the concave side of the board. Jointing the convex side with downward pressure on the outfeed side will produce results like you describe. Don’t ask how long it took me to figure this out!!! Also, you are always going to have to push the wood across the table since the blades are spinning towards you. Thats what those ‘push blocks are for!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View oluf's profile


260 posts in 3273 days

#3 posted 10-22-2011 05:13 AM

Two days ago there was a post on joiner problems. Read all the replys on that post and adjust your knives as covered there. A joiner should take an even cut end to end on an eight foot board. My joiner does that for me every time once I have the board jointed.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

View pintodeluxe's profile


5815 posts in 3047 days

#4 posted 10-22-2011 05:43 AM

Wax tables and fence, and hone blades to decrease feeding effort.
When you are making wedges, it means your infeed and outfeed tables are not coplanar. Use a 4’ builders level and a feeler gauge to adjust for coplanar tables. Because we make multiple passes, an error of .005” can severely taper a board.
Once you get it tuned you will be smiling wide!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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