outfeed miter slots

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by jpc posted 10-16-2011 05:40 AM 4374 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View jpc's profile


139 posts in 3176 days

10-16-2011 05:40 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw router

Good evening everyone, just had a question , and wanted to know what you guys did for yours. Im about to route in the grooves in my outfeed table. Did you guys route a little big , or exact size and shape of your miter gage runner bar? As i dont have a bit that would undercut to trap the runner under the edge, Am i overthinking this and missing something guys? any input is appreciated

15 replies so far

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3063 days

#1 posted 10-16-2011 05:48 AM

My workbench doubles as my outfeed table, and I routed slots in the top that line up with the miter slots. Since all I wanted was clearance, the table slots are wider than the saw miter slots.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View rep's profile


95 posts in 3104 days

#2 posted 10-16-2011 06:24 AM

Since the grooves are just clearance for the miter gauge bar (or other jig using the miter slots) – I used a router and straight edge to make grooves a little larger than the slots. No need to be exactly the same as the saw table slots. Once the work is past the blade, there is no need to keep guiding the bars precisely onto the out feed table.

-- rick

View Dusty56's profile


11819 posts in 3683 days

#3 posted 10-16-2011 06:39 AM

Is your table free standing or mounted permanently to the saw ?
Mine is free standing , so I made the slots 1” wide because the last thing you want is for the miter bar to stop moving if you’re part way through a cut.
As far as length goes , place your miter gauge just past your saw blade / riving knife / splitter , and see how far the runner extends over the table… don’t have to go much further because your stock will have been cut through by that time , and you will be clear of the blade. : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View jpc's profile


139 posts in 3176 days

#4 posted 10-16-2011 08:04 AM

Yes mine is mounted permanantly to the saw,the mounted section is only about 15-16 inches deep, so i planned to run it full length,and after pushing my miter gage past blade and splitter as you suggested the tip of the bar was about half way thru the table, so Im guess ill shoot for a perfect fit and not freak out if its a hair big, thanks everyone

View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4213 days

#5 posted 10-16-2011 03:14 PM

I can’t think of any reason why a perfect fit would be an advantage. The miter slots on the saw table take you all the way through the cut. After that, the only thing you are concerned about is clearance.

And the downside of trying to make them perfect is that the slightest deviation (either too narrow or not perfectly straight) will create a problem.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View patron's profile


13603 posts in 3336 days

#6 posted 10-16-2011 03:19 PM

i make them bigger
sawdust can clog the track
and drill a hole at the end
so the sawdust can drop thru

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2685 days

#7 posted 10-17-2011 04:47 AM

My outfeed table/workbench is 1/2” below the surface of my tablesaw so I don’t need to slot my bench. Just remember to raise your blade a little higher and the 1/2” step hasn’t been a problem. If I’m cutting really long stock I may lay a 1/2” scrap on the outfeed to keep things level.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View rance's profile


4258 posts in 3155 days

#8 posted 10-17-2011 05:52 AM

I like Andy’s solution of 1/2” lower.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4981 posts in 2488 days

#9 posted 10-17-2011 01:16 PM

I made mine wider.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View shipwright's profile


7980 posts in 2793 days

#10 posted 10-17-2011 03:05 PM

I have an outfeed table that is on casters and doubles as many other things so instead of slots that must be lined up I just have a piece of hardwood on the edge that faces the saw that has a bevel on it that will easily “pick up” any drooping ripping and let it run on the table. I keep the table about a foot away from the saw table. Never had a problem.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees.

View Chris 's profile


1879 posts in 3986 days

#11 posted 10-17-2011 03:36 PM

I really like David’s (Patron) idea using the hole at the end of the slot to allow for sawdust to clear out.

-- "Everything that is great and inspiring is created by the individual who labors in freedom" -- Albert Einstein

View vernonator's profile


75 posts in 2646 days

#12 posted 10-17-2011 03:50 PM

Very fortuitious topic – in the planning stages for an outfeed table myself. Plan on a 18” section attached to the saw with a long fold-down top for those really long cuts. I too like the idea of holes at the end of the mitre grooves for sawdust relief and plan on making my slots oversized. Any advice on attaching the table to the L-bracket on the table saw? Did you drill/bolt? Make a bracket? Any closeup pics would be beneficial.

Thanks all for all the great info (on this thread and all the others)


View jusfine's profile


2422 posts in 2921 days

#13 posted 10-17-2011 05:20 PM

My blog about the outfeed table I built is here and it may give you some ideas.

I did not rout slots in mine as my miter guage is seldom used, I have the Excalibur sliding table attached to the left of my saw.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View jpc's profile


139 posts in 3176 days

#14 posted 10-17-2011 05:23 PM

hey Vernonator, the night before last i posted pics of mine , its in the post project section or just look at my profile if you like, it has one or two close pics of underneath, i bolted 1 1/2×1 1/2 angle vertically to the back of my saw and same size angle underneath the outfeed table and then used clamps to set the table to exactly where i wanted it, put the flat steel in place and marked where i need to put two holes in each one, then bolted it all togather, still gotta do some sanding and then finish, good luck

View flippedcracker's profile


91 posts in 2448 days

#15 posted 10-18-2011 01:04 AM

I’m getting a new saw soon, and will definitely be building an outfeed table, so i’m interested in these ideas too. And since my garage is so small, I also need to make the table extremely functional and full of storage so as not to waste any space.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics