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Need help and ideas...Rikon 10-325 14" Deluxe Bandsaw

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Forum topic by Phildo92027 posted 10-13-2011 01:39 AM 3430 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Phildo92027

53 posts in 2547 days


10-13-2011 01:39 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw rikon 14

I have a Rikon 10-325 14” Deluxe Bandsaw. I am using a 111” x 1/2 carbide tipped blade (US made). I have seen resaws with this blade and they are flawless. My problem….

I have set and adjusted the saw several times but the drift on the blade is over 1/2” front to back of the table. After beginning a resaw the blade (after adjusting for drift) the saw cuts toward the fence making the resaw thinner. The difference in a 48” board is almost .050”. The blade tension is very difficult to estimate as the gauge (while adjustable) has no setting instructions nor zeroing procedure.

I have checked the guide and thrust bearings, motor speed, blade tension (see above), drift, fence angle, did I say drift, guides, etc.

I am at wits end. This is too expensive to be a paperweight. I had some of these problems with the original blade but wasn’t attempting a resaw of more than 6”.

-- Phil, Near San Diego, CA


14 replies so far

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ShaneA

5449 posts in 1346 days


#1 posted 10-13-2011 02:15 AM

Are you using the resaw bar, or just the fence?

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Phildo92027

53 posts in 2547 days


#2 posted 10-13-2011 04:21 AM

I am using a tall resaw fence I built.

-- Phil, Near San Diego, CA

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mcase

438 posts in 1877 days


#3 posted 10-13-2011 04:32 AM

Phil,

I’m having a hard time visualizing what you mean when you say “the drift on the blade is over 1/2” front to back of the table”

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Phildo92027

53 posts in 2547 days


#4 posted 10-13-2011 04:37 AM

I’ve had to skew the fence over 1/2” from square (to the table’s edge – which is square to the blade) to get the wood to cut straight.

-- Phil, Near San Diego, CA

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ShaneA

5449 posts in 1346 days


#5 posted 10-13-2011 04:51 AM

I have that saw as well, and I have resawed some on it. Not an expert by any means, I too end up with little wedge or slope to it. One side of board may be 3/8 and the other 1/2. The blade/table are square to each other. I have just used the fence w/o the bar. I will try bar next time, and further tension the blade. I use 3/4 TW 3tpi blade. I am a bandsaw noobie. Hopefully there is an easy suggestion. I figured my issue is user error. Hope to get some help as well.

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mcase

438 posts in 1877 days


#6 posted 10-13-2011 04:53 AM

Yeah that is strange. The blade on my Powermatic is slightly off from parallel to the table and I adjusted my fence accordingly. But If the blade is parallel to the table and the fence then you should to have to do this. Also 1/2” is HUGE. Have you talked to Rikon?

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tomd

1802 posts in 2518 days


#7 posted 10-13-2011 05:08 AM

I have a Rikon bandsaw and have went through the same probems. May I make a few suggestions you may have already tried or maybe redundant so bear with me. A tension guide should be on a label on the inside of the bottom door. If you have the correct tension and the blade cut toward the fence the drift is not set correct or the feed is too fast. Also I have found that the original fence with this bandsaw will move slightly if a good amount of pressure is applied when cutting. I make alot of banding and found the bandings were slightly thicker at the end by only .02 not enought to feel or see but the fence does slide under pressure, now I use a second clamp to assure it does not move. Check that the blade is square to the table and the fence is square to the table and blade. Make sure the fence is absolutely flat. And finally I use the half board method to set drift, you did not say how you adjusted for drift. Hope you get it, it’s worth the trouble when you see that sheet of veneer come off your saw.

-- Tom D

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2396 days


#8 posted 10-13-2011 10:37 PM

+1 to cr1(”just shrug and ask if she’s making pies in a hopeful tone” – ROTFL on that one – ;))

FYI, I have the same saw and have resawed 12” material with the flat fence with no drift (when the woodslicer 1/2” blade was new mind you).

I do not use the built in tension guide as it is far from accurate – I just gauge the tension by trying to deflect the blade with my finger – this can varry based on person, and blade – takes some practice but you can get the idea.

Once thing that can add to drift on top of cr1s suggestions is where the blade is located on the wheels. the blade should be centered, but the teeth should be ahead of the center line and not biting into the tires (if possible).

how old is your blade – uneven dulling of the blade can also lead to drift which is the nature of the beast.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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ShaneA

5449 posts in 1346 days


#9 posted 10-13-2011 10:58 PM

In my case 3/4 timberwolf 3 tpi, not sure of tooth configuration. It has been used to slice about 25bf into 3/8 boards. Walnut and maple, kiln dried, maple 5” wide walnut 8” wide. The saw showed no hesitation. I wil trythe resaw bar next time, rather than the rolling pin. Im thinking I basically just have user error. The saw seems to be set up how I have read in books/forums. If an error was made in tension, would it be better to error on the side of too tight or too loose. is The scale is not accurate or trustworthy?

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2396 days


#10 posted 10-13-2011 11:03 PM

Shane – FYI, a 3/4” on a 14” bandsaw is not ideal. can this saw handle it in terms of power – of course, but the issue is never with the motor and more about the wheel diameter and the blade itself. a 3/4” blade requires a lot more tension to bend around a curved surface (wheel) than a 1/2” blade would. Add to that the fact that 14”D wheels are on the smaller scale results in a lot of tension on the blade which also means you really need to crank that wheel up to hold the blade under proper tension neither are a good thing. it is very possible that your blade is not tensioned properly. but without seeing it in person this is nothing more than a guess. obviously there could be other things in play.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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ShaneA

5449 posts in 1346 days


#11 posted 10-13-2011 11:16 PM

I dont have any issues moving to 1/2 blade. I think I was too scared to crank the 3/4 to the “proper” setting per the gauge. Seemed like a lot of force to me. I didnt want to break the dang thing before I learned to use it properly.

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2396 days


#12 posted 10-13-2011 11:22 PM

I’m with you on that one. I use 1/2” resaw blade (widest I’ve ever put on this saw) and it works great . decent tension. and good resaw results.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Phildo92027

53 posts in 2547 days


#13 posted 10-14-2011 03:09 AM

I have potentially diagnosed the problem…. The carbide tipped blade is tweaking the blade off of “flat” on the wheels (causing drift problem) – solution is to move blade so teeth don’t bite wheel potentially solving drift problem. Problem of blade steering into wood on resaw is the back of the blade binding in the kerf turning it “off line”. I will work on the corrections tomorrow and report accordingly. Thanks all for your responses. I’ll keep you posted.

-- Phil, Near San Diego, CA

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Phildo92027

53 posts in 2547 days


#14 posted 10-14-2011 04:37 PM

Ok here are the results: 8 resaws, length 37”, thickness .102” +/- .004” over the length. Height 3 1/2”, thickness +/- .002”. Fence is aligned parallel with blade – no correction.
How I got there….. Drift when it is a factor of the blade tooth set will generally be no more than a degree to two. More than that is a set up problem. What I didn’t take into consideration was the thickness of the carbide tip of the blade. The blade was centered on the wheel which in reality acted like is was too far back. The teeth were resting on the crown of the wheel making it act like the glad was off center too far back. This was corrected by moving the blade out (toward front edge of wheel) until the drift was corrected.
As for tensioning, I loosened all of the guides and used the “flutter” technique to adjust the tension. Once the flutter was taken out, I reset the tension scale so I can return to that setting as a starting point. The low tension makes it virtually unnecessary to de-tension the blade between uses. What is does require though is to develop a touch for resawing so as to not over drive the work into the blade. It is important to allow the blade to make the cut.

I want to thank all of the “jocks” that responded to my need. I got some valuable insights that pointed me in the right direction. I hope that by sharing my trials and result that it is helpful to someone else in the future. – Phil

-- Phil, Near San Diego, CA

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