What is acceptable for blade to miterslot deflection?

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Forum topic by KenBry posted 10-02-2011 04:30 PM 1000 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View KenBry's profile


484 posts in 2652 days

10-02-2011 04:30 PM

I have a jet pro shop table saw. I am working at getting it as squared up as I can. I built a dial indicator miter jig. I measured the blade front to back. I found my blade has a .0010 angle from front to back. I was able to get my fence down to .0002 front to back.
I plan on trying my hand at box building. I am afraid the blade probably needs some adjustment. I am looking for what you guys think. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

-- Ken, USAF MSgt, Ret.

6 replies so far

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3274 days

#1 posted 10-02-2011 05:08 PM

If they’re correct, those numbers would be just fine. I mention correctness because home made jigs can often be the cause of errors.

Don’t forget that your working with wood. Accuracy is important, but machine shop accuracy isn’t necessary.

With those numbers, I would make a few boxes and see how square they are. I suspect that you’ll be just fine.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Mickey Cassiba's profile

Mickey Cassiba

312 posts in 3237 days

#2 posted 10-02-2011 05:13 PM

An .001” and a .0002”, in any configuration, either converging or diverging, are going to result an a, .010”+/- error over a travel of ten inches. thats a third of a thirty second of an inch…I think you have met or exceedied any manufacturer’s specification. I think you’re dialed in pretty good.

-- One of these hammers oughta fix that...

View KenBry's profile


484 posts in 2652 days

#3 posted 10-02-2011 06:12 PM

Thanks guys, I was a machinist years ago and I was used to working with tight tolerances and that’s why I thought best to ask you guys.
FWIW, my home made jig has zero slop and is super tight in the miter slot. :) Since it was going to be my basis for measuring everything else I made darn sure it was right LOL

-- Ken, USAF MSgt, Ret.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3274 days

#4 posted 10-02-2011 06:28 PM

Since you used to be a machinest, my faith in your home made jig just went way up. I’ve seen folks come up with home brewed stuff that made matters worse instead of better. – lol

Just for fun, though, you should put up a sign in your shop saying…..”It’s WOOD, not metal!”. – lol

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View RogerBean's profile


1605 posts in 3159 days

#5 posted 10-02-2011 06:54 PM

Good luck with your box making. We can use all the box makers we can get. I very much doubt that my UniSaw is as close as yours! :-)) You might want to pick up a Freud Diablo 7 1/4” blade with a 1/16th kerf also. ($14 at Menards) I have a number of Forrest blades (which are great) but find that for boxes, the little blade stays on the UniSaw most of the time. Hope to see some of your box work here on LJ!!

-- "Everybody makes mistakes. A craftsman always fixes them." (Monty Kennedy, "The Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks", 1952)

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5135 posts in 4166 days

#6 posted 10-02-2011 11:34 PM

Don’t forget that you’re working with a product that will move all the time no matter what ya do. I get worked up when I hear about folks who try to get woodworkin’ tools set to the nearest .0001”. Don’t forget that the old masters did’t use a micrometer.


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