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DADO CLEARANCE FOR GLUE

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Forum topic by Belg1960 posted 10-02-2011 03:15 PM 1787 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Belg1960

966 posts in 2528 days


10-02-2011 03:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Good morning fellow LJ, I’m working on my drawers for my cabinets and am wondering should I be allowing a small amount of clearance for the dado that the 1/2” bottom plywood so the glue has room to surround the whole joint. I had such a tight fit on the first few that I had to use the deadblow hammer to seat the joint and was very hard to move it back and forth to align the ends. Thanks for helping a rookie. Pat

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!


12 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51452 posts in 2943 days


#1 posted 10-02-2011 03:49 PM

I make the dados just snug…my test has always been to be able to pound the board into it with my fist. Once yellow glue is in the joint it will be tough to move it anyway, and may require a rubber or deadblow to move it so its important to line it up correctly so minimal adjustment is necessary.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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ShaneA

6472 posts in 2061 days


#2 posted 10-02-2011 05:44 PM

A snug fit is best, something you do not have to force. I usually use a small amount of glue in the center of each drawer side. Probably not necessity, but I think it adds structural ridgidity to the drawer.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3040 days


#3 posted 10-02-2011 06:04 PM

ditto on cr1 comment . Gluing surfaceies should be snug but not so tight you have to pound them together.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2531 days


#4 posted 10-02-2011 06:20 PM

I never glue drawer bottoms. They need to be able to move a bit with temperature/humidity changes.

I make dados in the drawer boxs sides and front to receive the bottom. I like them just loose enough to allow the bottom so slide in. The back doesn’t have a dado and I use 2-3 brads to pin the bottom to the back so it stays in place.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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Belg1960

966 posts in 2528 days


#5 posted 10-02-2011 09:40 PM

Thanks alot men, I have added the thinnest shim in my dado set and it worked beautifully. Also have tried this set of drawers with no glue and let the bottom float. I watched a youtube video which showed a guy who glued everything, since it was all plywood I figured the movement would be equal amongst all the pieces. The drawers in the center section are all much shallower, except for the bottom one, so no glue should be no problem at all.
How long do you guys usually let your boxes dry before trying to install them into the carcass?

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

6472 posts in 2061 days


#6 posted 10-02-2011 09:55 PM

You are fine to glue them. The plywood is demensionally stable, plus if the drawer sides are hardwood, expansion will come in width/height of the drawer. Not the length. Glueing, at least in the center, will help to keep the drawer from racking. As for how long to dry…what type of joinery is used to make the drawer itself. In most cases two hrs should be more than plenty. Good luck.

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jumbojack

1667 posts in 2087 days


#7 posted 10-02-2011 10:36 PM

I am with sawkerf. Dado three sides. The back of the drawer is cut where the dado would be. The bottom is nailed to the back.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

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Belg1960

966 posts in 2528 days


#8 posted 10-02-2011 10:52 PM

Shane, thats why I originally glued the first set of drawers. I dadoed the bottom in 3/8” up 3/8”, the frame was rabbeted, glued, and then brad nailed.

Jack, i did that on the first set of drawers, but then used locking rabbets for the corners. This time I dadoed all 4 sides, now that I think about it to nail the back would help to keep it locked a little better probably.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View Loren's profile

Loren

8302 posts in 3110 days


#9 posted 10-03-2011 02:39 AM

I glue in plywood bottoms on plywood drawers so the don’t rattle. I use
prefinished 1/4” maple for the bottom usually so glue on the sides
wouldn’t stick anyway. I light bead in the bottom is fine. Cut the
bottom 3/32” undersized to the groove and the drawer goes together
with no trouble, and the bead of glue grabs enough all around that
the bottom doesn’t rattle and the drawer is likely to stays more square
for a bit longer (years and years).

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Belg1960

966 posts in 2528 days


#10 posted 10-03-2011 12:55 PM

Loren, I saw some little rubber balls they are selling now that you place into the grooves which get compressed and stop the bottoms from moving such a simple idea but itallows for some movement if there was any without making noise. Thanks for your input and ideas.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View Loren's profile

Loren

8302 posts in 3110 days


#11 posted 10-03-2011 05:11 PM

Those are more for door panels. The way a solid wood drawer bottom
is done makes rattling not a problem, but with quickie drawers with
plywood bottoms, it can be an issue… a minor one to be sure, but
it is the awareness of all these little issues and solutions to them that
makes your stuff just that much better and nicer and ergonomic than
the other guy’s stuff. If you are a pro, you get to learn faster because
of the flow of work.

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Belg1960

966 posts in 2528 days


#12 posted 10-05-2011 01:29 PM

Loren, thanks for the info much appreciated. I don’t think I could make money at this as I still make way too many stupid mistakes but am starting to get better at fixing them. I think my drawer bottoms are tight enough that rattling won’t be a problem even without the glue.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

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