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Making pine look like oak, (suggestions for tinting Polyshades?)

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Forum topic by karmaco posted 929 days ago 1978 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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karmaco

2 posts in 933 days


929 days ago

ok, I’m not really trying to make pine look like oak. What I am doing though is make pine coordinate with 100 year old oak. Why?? Because my customer asked for it. I’m installing my customers Marvin replacement windows in a Victorian house with oak trim. The closest sash material he could get to the oak trim was pine. So, I’m trying to get it to “coordinate” with the existing oak. I’ve use Polyshades by Minwax many times in the past to put a decent look on the random pine that’s typically used for modern interior trim and doors. I’ve had good luck with it when I spray it. I’ve also custom tinted and shaded it by adding artist oil colors to it. The problem this time is that I have to apply it with a pad and brush because there is too many tracks, sash balances, glass etc to mask everything off and spray. So I can’t lay it on as heavy as I can with spray. Application is going ok. 2 coats so far. Problem is I’m not building up the deep tobacco brown color I need this time fast enough. I’ve been adding artist colors (vandyke brown, burnt sienna and touch of chrome orange) to Polyshades “Classic Oak” to get in the general color palette of antique oak, but it doesn’t look like I’ll get to the tobacco brown I need before I reach my practical limit of finish coats (maybe 4 total ?). So, I’m wondering if anyone has any experience using aniline dye or universal colorants in Polyshades? Or any other suggestions for getting the color depth needed?
Thanks, Terry

-- Terry @ karmaconstruction


4 replies so far

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Lee Barker

2159 posts in 1348 days


#1 posted 929 days ago

Sounds like you’re in a bit of a corner, Terry.

I’ve used Polyshades just enough to not be any kind of an expert. That said, it sounds like the right product for this application.

Coincidentally, I was working yesterday with other Minwax products to match an existing color, and it struck me that I needed to start with stuff a full step darker than it appeared I wanted in order for it to work.

Is it too late to lay on a coat of a darker stock Polyshades color and then top it off with your brew?

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1566 days


#2 posted 929 days ago

I’ve never tried to add anything to Ployshades, but getting the deep color can be a challenge.

Last winter, I made a small bathroom vainty from poplar and used Polyshades “Bombay Mahogany”. While experimenting on scrap, I found that pre-conditioning was definitely necessary, and wiping down removed too much of the stain. I finally got what I needed by using a weenie roller and/or foam brush. When it had thouroughly dried, I scuff sanded everything and applied two coats of Minwax Polycrylic. It came out fine, but was more work than I had expected.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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karmaco

2 posts in 933 days


#3 posted 929 days ago

Lee, yeah it might be worth a shot to try another coat with, say walnut. I’ve got some so I’ll check it out.
Sawkerf, I never tried foam cuz I thought it would put bubbles in it. Worth a try.
Berry, Windows were supplied by the Owner, so I just worked with what he has.
Thanks for the feedback.

-- Terry @ karmaconstruction

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1566 days


#4 posted 928 days ago

The foam brush did give me some bubbles, and so did the weenie roller. I tried using the brush like a feather – just skimming the surface – and that helped. The scuff sanding and two coats of Polycrylic made them disappear.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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