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| Forum topic by Lotidus | posted 600 days ago | 4329 views | 0 times favorited | 21 replies | ![]() |
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600 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: question I have stripped the head on a hex screw in my scroll saw. It tightens the clamp on the lower blade holder. Its just stripped enough where the hex wrench wont catch it and the next size up wont fit. Mind you I dont have a tap. I was thinking I could file a flat on either side of the head and use a plier. Any other sugestions would be welcome. -- Lotidus |
21 replies so far
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#1 posted 600 days ago |
Use a hack saw or something similar and cut a slot in the head and use a flathead screwdriver in the slot you’ve made. I do it to tattoo machines with stripped screws daily. Good luck. |
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#2 posted 600 days ago |
I had the same problem with my scroll saw only with the upper clamp. The screws always seemed to strip and the actual clamp always broke (Cheap metal). I replaced them wth a flat head screw, a nut, and a washer I shaped to look like the origional clamp. It works pretty good. I just use a pair of locking pliers to hold the nut while I uncrew the screw. The blade occasionally slips out but for the most part it works. If it is the same soft metal that mine was made out of, you may be able to just use pliers to grab the head and unscrew it out without any filing. -- Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein |
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#3 posted 600 days ago |
Grind down the end of your hex key so it will get a new bite on the screw. Alternatively, try one of those gripper outers. I don’t recall their name. ........ Its called a “Grabit”. -- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane-- |
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#4 posted 600 days ago |
Sorry for double posting….. Deleted -- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over? |
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#5 posted 600 days ago |
Take a break and walk away for the night. Harbor Freight has cheap screw extractors. Worth the price. They will do in a pinch. Expect to break one or two of them but the store will replace at no charge. This is one of the items they have that I EXPECT to break when I spend under $8. In fact, I HAVE broke mine. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-remover-and-quick-change-bit-set-95530.html But honestly, when you need it, you need it and the price can’t be beat. If you don’t have HF nearby, go to Sears. -- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over? |
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#6 posted 600 days ago |
drill the screw out |
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#7 posted 600 days ago |
Try super gluing the correct size hex wrench in. if that does not work file down the next size to fit. THEN go to an ACE hardware store and buy a new hex screw, look for AMERICAN steel. -- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith |
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#8 posted 600 days ago |
If you can get to the ouutside of the head with something like pliers, grab it with vice-grips and twist out. If you can’t, drill a small hole down the shaft of the bolt and use “easy-outs”. -- I may have lost my marbles, but I still have my love of woodworking |
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#9 posted 600 days ago |
Lotidus, get the proper size screw extractor and carefully drill the right size hole in the center of the socket head cap screw. The hole needs to be smaller than the largest part of the taper so the extractor will bite into the sides of the hole. Turn the extractor counterclockwise and it will bite into the screw and back it out. If the screw is especially hard you may need to use a carbide drill bit. However, sometimes you can take a left hand drill and drill a hole in the screw and the drill will bite into the screw and back the screw out. First off, however, if the head is sticking out you may just be able to remove the screw with a good pair of vise grips. -- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau |
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#10 posted 600 days ago |
Soak the screw with pb blaster. Buy a carbide tip masonry small enough to not ruin the threads. Might pay to punch a start for the bit. Drill and lubricate as you drill, take your time. I’m spent hours on one just so I didn’t ruin or re-tap a very expensive item….i.e. marine power head. Take your time, it will work. Used this method often, old timer taught me…I thought he was nuts…he was just an old machinists :-) |
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#11 posted 600 days ago |
If it is not completely round inside, grind down the next bigger Allen wrench down one flat at a time until it just starts to go in and tap it in with a hammer and it should turn it out. Then get a good quality socket head cap screw at Ace hardware. A good screw will be a grade 8 and it should not wear out before the wrench. -- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! |
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#12 posted 600 days ago |
This is what I use:
I am sure there are other brands that are easily found at the big box. I always tap the bit into the screw lightly with a hammer to start the bite. For something stubborn, I’d give it a shot of PB blaster & wait an hour. -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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#13 posted 600 days ago |
Those snap on extractors work superbly. -- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks. |
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#14 posted 600 days ago |
I’ve done something similar to jumbojack, but with epoxy. Epoxy a wrench in, let it set up good, and twist it out. -- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m) |
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#15 posted 600 days ago |
Certain screws are too small, or hardened or even too soft for extractors. If you can’t get it out with the extractors drilling is the only solution. Save your self some time and bits and use the carbide tip masonry bit. Soaking with PB Blaster is a must. |
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