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WorkShop flooring question

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Forum topic by WoodworkingGeek posted 09-23-2011 02:19 PM 1417 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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WoodworkingGeek

181 posts in 1441 days


09-23-2011 02:19 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hi LJ’s
The floor In my new 20’ by 20’ two car garage is very rough concrete. I did some research on garage flooring and found some, But very expensive! The best deal that I found was http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=144557&navAction=push#BVRRWidgetID from sams club. I also looked into Dyycore from home depot but thats too expensive. I also have some new linoleum on cregslist in 9’ by 12’ rolls for $50 each. Would that be Ok for a workshop? Do any of you all have ideas? I’m tired of standing on concrete all day in the shop!!
Thanks for the help!!


7 replies so far

View nobuckle's profile

nobuckle

1120 posts in 1509 days


#1 posted 09-23-2011 03:37 PM

I appears that the flooring from Sam’s is some type of rubber flooring, is that the case? If that’s so, then it should provide some cusion. I have a small shop with a concrete floor covered with linoleum tiles so I can relate. I’d thought about getting some of those interlocking foam flooring tiles but they would only be a hassle in my 9’ x 11’ shop. I just deal with what I have.

-- Doug - Make an effort to live by the slogan "We try harder"

View Michael1's profile

Michael1

403 posts in 1408 days


#2 posted 09-23-2011 03:47 PM

I would not recommend linoleum or any kind of vinyl tile as it becomes very slick once saw dust gets on it. If you are looking to just give it a clean look and make it easier to sweep, I found that concrete paint works really well as it is not slippery from saw dust but sweeps up really clean. You say your floor is “rough” I am picturing a high amount of aggregate on the surface of the concrete. To fix that I think it would take allot of leveling compound to smooth out. The epoxy floor systems are nice but expensive. If you are looking for something that is easier on the feet, I would recommend a wood floor system. The most economical approach would be to lay 2X4 lumber on the floor on 16” canters. Then overlay it with plywood. I would recommend tongue and grove plywood and glue and screw it to the 2X4 to prevent a sqeeky floor. Use treated 2X4 stock and a bead of construction adheasive allong with fastening it to the floor with powder actuated fasteners. You can purchase a “Ramset” gun for about $25 at Home depot. It uses a 22 guage “load” as it is refered to in construction and for 2x lumber I would use a 3” pin (Nail) Yu load the end of the Ram set with the nail and a load in the chamber. Press firmly against the wood to release the safety and strike the back with a good hammer blow. It is best to use a heavy hammer say a 22 ounce framing hammer as a 16 ounce or smaller will trigger the firing pin but not give the punch you need for a 3” nail. The loads come in different strengths and are numbered and color coated according to strength. The numbers typically sold at Home depot are 2,3,4 which I believe are brown, orange, yellow respectively. The higher the number the stronger the load. They also make a 5 but you will have to go to a specialty fastener dealer as Home Depot doesn’t usually carry it. The #5 is for shooting into steel and too strong for what you want. The #2 i for new concrete and low power. Concrete is continually getting harder with age until it is about 100 years old and then it starts to weaken. If your floor is only a few years old a 3 might be okay but I would probably go with the #4 as you will need the extra punch to get through the lumber and into the concrete. Once in a while a load might not drive the nail all the way in and be proud of the surface. The safest method is to drive it the rest of the way with a 2 pound engineers hammer or you can use the ram set again with a load but no pin. Anyway, I would space the nails about every 30” to hlod the lumber down until the construction adheasive set up. Then lay the plywood sheeting over and glue and screw this down as well so it doesnt squeek. for extra insulating properties, and avoid a cold floor durring the winter you can cut styrofoam panels to fit between the 2X4s. I would also consider laying a sheet of 6 mill plastic to act a s a vapor barrier between the studs and the plywood. YOu could run it under the studs which would negate the need for the lumber to be pressure treated but the glue would be pointless and you might get a little spring in the floor with out the lumber glued down. Chances are you might already have a vapor barrier under your concrete slab but I would still place one somewhere just to be safe. If you do your floor like a typical house floor with a layer of 3/4 ply for a subfloor and then a 5/8 or 3/4 underlayment, staggering the joints, place the plastic, or in this case you could use 15lbs felt paper (tar paper) between the layers of plywood for a vapor barrier. However, which ever way, the vapor barrier is important.

Hope this helps,
Michael

-- Michael Mills, North Carolina, http://www.scicaskets.com

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NH_Hermit

391 posts in 1844 days


#3 posted 09-23-2011 03:57 PM

I had the very same problem with my 16ā€™x20ā€™ stand alone workshop with a concrete floor, and also asked the same question here on the forum last winter. I got some very constructive suggestions.

My final solution was to lay down a plywood subfloor over a plastic moisture barrier with the idea for laying tile over the plywood. I got the subfloor done, but found myself spending any free money on tools rather than tile, and wanting to spend whatever free shop time using those tools on projects rather than laying tile. I now have rubber floor mats from Lowes in front of my most used working areas (e.g. the lathe and the workbench). Iā€™m not sure the tile will ever get done ā€“ so many tools, so little money – so many projects, so little time.

-- John from Horse Shoe

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2378 posts in 1631 days


#4 posted 09-23-2011 04:12 PM

I just finished covering my garage floor with a 2×4 and plywood subfoor similar to what Michael described. Works well for me, wonderful to walk on, cheaper than dricore.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View bluekingfisher's profile

bluekingfisher

1106 posts in 1728 days


#5 posted 09-23-2011 04:27 PM

I too would echo what Michael has said but I personally wouldn’t glue the plywood sub floor to the “joists”in case you at some point need to lift a panel, which would wreck half the floor in the process.

I have a plywood floor in my shop and screwed about every 9” prevent the floor from squeaking. Been up a couple of years with no problems.

-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View ahock's profile

ahock

102 posts in 2072 days


#6 posted 09-23-2011 04:28 PM

Two thoughts, one is a cheaper and quicker ‘solution’ the other is a longer term, I think, better solution.
1-Just buy some interlocking rubber/foam pads and put them where you stand the most.
2-Lay a plastic moisture barrier down over the whole floor. Tape your seams, and use a high quality caulk to seal it to the walls about 2” above floor height. Then cover the floor with 1” rigid foam (not xps), tape your seams, and cover it with 1/2” plywood. This creates a floating floor and a thermal break between the concrete and your feet and shop, stopping the concrete from being a giant heatsink. You can then do whatever flooring you want on top of the ply, probably not linoleum as stated above because of slipperiness. If you’re not comfortable with a fully floating floor then lay 3/4” foam over it all, then 1×2 strips where you plywood joints will go, then fill the space between with 3/4” foam and cover with ply. It’s a lot more work but will result in a much more comfortable shop, both temperature/humidity wise and foot-wise.

-- Andy, PA ~Finding satisfaction in creation

View Roger's profile

Roger

15317 posts in 1552 days


#7 posted 09-23-2011 05:18 PM

this looks very interesting. seems like it would be gr8 for this cold cement floI wonder how it would do for a few mobil tool stands, as far as moving them around. keep us posted if you or anyone else out there has this in their shop, and how you like it, etc. thnx

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

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