How do you know when your blade is dull.

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Forum topic by agallant posted 09-22-2011 07:22 PM 1116 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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551 posts in 2914 days

09-22-2011 07:22 PM

I have been contemplating sending my Forrest WW2 out for sharpening. It is not chipping or burning per-say but it is requiring more effort to push wood through it. How do you know when it is time to change the blade out with a sharper one?

10 replies so far

View patron's profile


13608 posts in 3369 days

#1 posted 09-22-2011 07:24 PM

the problem you are having with it

would be a good indication

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View knotscott's profile


8057 posts in 3403 days

#2 posted 09-22-2011 07:30 PM

You’ll get the same symptoms when the blade is dirty too….which of course will eventually cause premature dulling.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ShaneA's profile


6956 posts in 2626 days

#3 posted 09-22-2011 07:34 PM

That is a good question. Keeping the blade clean can help with the resistance issues. Since dulling occurs slowly over time it can be difficult to notice. However, if you have a sharp/clean blade to compare it to, that may give you sort of an instant response. After I sent my wwIIs to forrest for sharpening, the difference was substantial. Now I wonder why I waited so long. Same can be said for planer/jointer knives. But, once you have sharp, you will know dull if that makes sense.

View jlsmitty's profile


14 posts in 3638 days

#4 posted 09-22-2011 07:41 PM

I sent my WWII to Burns Tools (do a google search)and was very pleased, as good as Forrest (maybe better) and cheaper.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3096 days

#5 posted 09-22-2011 08:21 PM

Take a look at the teeth. If you see grunge on the faces or sides, a good cleaning might be all that you need. At the risk of starting a war, I’ll suggest using Simple Green. If the cleaning doesn’t improve performance, it’s probably time to sharpen.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2703 days

#6 posted 09-22-2011 08:23 PM

Whe the wood is difficult or more difficult than normal to feed into the machine, the machine will start trying to lift the wood off the table. This is what a DULL blade will be like. Sounds to me like you should be gathering the price of a blade sharpening. I think you will like the results.

View bunkie's profile


412 posts in 3174 days

#7 posted 09-22-2011 08:28 PM

Forrest did a very nice job resharpening my WWII. I, too, wondered why I waited so long after getting it back.

-- Altruism is, ultimately, self-serving

View agallant's profile


551 posts in 2914 days

#8 posted 09-22-2011 08:43 PM

I am about to start a new project in a few weeks so I think I will try to clean and if that does not work then I will send it out.


View pintodeluxe's profile


5706 posts in 2841 days

#9 posted 09-22-2011 09:00 PM

I recommend simple green purple if you want to clean your blades. It is the purple green that is a purple liquid, and sells for about$13 per gallon. Dilute it 50/50% with water and watch that pitch and resin melt away. Sipmle green purple will not weaken carbide, and is approved for soaking. I clean my T.S. blade every couple hours of run time. Works great.

On a side note, how do you know when you only have one coffee filter? Feels like one, but what if it really two?

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View SnowyRiver's profile


51457 posts in 3508 days

#10 posted 09-22-2011 09:48 PM

To add further comment, you will also experience the hard to push syndrome if your table on the saw has pitch or resin on it. It is difficult to see, so I frequently clean and wax the table and fence….you would be surprised at how much difference that makes.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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