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How do you know when your blade is dull.

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Forum topic by agallant posted 1021 days ago 639 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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agallant

427 posts in 1469 days


1021 days ago

I have been contemplating sending my Forrest WW2 out for sharpening. It is not chipping or burning per-say but it is requiring more effort to push wood through it. How do you know when it is time to change the blade out with a sharper one?


10 replies so far

View patron's profile

patron

12947 posts in 1924 days


#1 posted 1021 days ago

the problem you are having with it

would be a good indication

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5348 posts in 1958 days


#2 posted 1021 days ago

You’ll get the same symptoms when the blade is dirty too….which of course will eventually cause premature dulling.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5201 posts in 1181 days


#3 posted 1021 days ago

That is a good question. Keeping the blade clean can help with the resistance issues. Since dulling occurs slowly over time it can be difficult to notice. However, if you have a sharp/clean blade to compare it to, that may give you sort of an instant response. After I sent my wwIIs to forrest for sharpening, the difference was substantial. Now I wonder why I waited so long. Same can be said for planer/jointer knives. But, once you have sharp, you will know dull if that makes sense.

View jlsmitty's profile

jlsmitty

14 posts in 2193 days


#4 posted 1021 days ago

I sent my WWII to Burns Tools (do a google search)and was very pleased, as good as Forrest (maybe better) and cheaper.

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1651 days


#5 posted 1021 days ago

Take a look at the teeth. If you see grunge on the faces or sides, a good cleaning might be all that you need. At the risk of starting a war, I’ll suggest using Simple Green. If the cleaning doesn’t improve performance, it’s probably time to sharpen.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3031 posts in 1258 days


#6 posted 1021 days ago

Whe the wood is difficult or more difficult than normal to feed into the machine, the machine will start trying to lift the wood off the table. This is what a DULL blade will be like. Sounds to me like you should be gathering the price of a blade sharpening. I think you will like the results.

View bunkie's profile

bunkie

411 posts in 1730 days


#7 posted 1021 days ago

Forrest did a very nice job resharpening my WWII. I, too, wondered why I waited so long after getting it back.

-- Altruism is, ultimately, self-serving

View agallant's profile

agallant

427 posts in 1469 days


#8 posted 1021 days ago

I am about to start a new project in a few weeks so I think I will try to clean and if that does not work then I will send it out.

-AG

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3201 posts in 1396 days


#9 posted 1021 days ago

I recommend simple green purple if you want to clean your blades. It is the purple green that is a purple liquid, and sells for about$13 per gallon. Dilute it 50/50% with water and watch that pitch and resin melt away. Sipmle green purple will not weaken carbide, and is approved for soaking. I clean my T.S. blade every couple hours of run time. Works great.

On a side note, how do you know when you only have one coffee filter? Feels like one, but what if it really two?

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51451 posts in 2063 days


#10 posted 1021 days ago

To add further comment, you will also experience the hard to push syndrome if your table on the saw has pitch or resin on it. It is difficult to see, so I frequently clean and wax the table and fence….you would be surprised at how much difference that makes.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

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