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What is different about this Porter Cable bandsaw?

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Forum topic by Derrick posted 01-10-2019 05:49 AM 1175 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Derrick

92 posts in 1379 days


01-10-2019 05:49 AM

Due to my father in law not understanding the rules of this last secret Santa, I was gifted enough money(gift card) to buy a PCB330BS from Lowe’s.

It’s together, but nothing is adjusted.

Does anyone know why this model isn’t supposed to run a 3/4” blade? If this is just a Delta knockoff, I know I’ve seen those with 3/4 blades. What makes mine so “special”?

Thank you.

Derrick


20 replies so far

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Derrick

92 posts in 1379 days


#1 posted 01-10-2019 05:52 AM

I don’t know how to turn my picture the correct way.

Sorry.

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GrantA

958 posts in 1648 days


#2 posted 01-10-2019 11:48 AM

As for the picture, just crop a tiny bit off it and reload it. I’m guessing you took it with your phone and this is a known problem. Unless you hold it just the right way (on an iPhone the home button at the right, landscape mode) you’ll have to crop it a bit for the site to recognize the orientation

On to the saw, it’s probably just that they don’t recommend it. Typically 3/4 resaw blades need a lot of tension and these saws (mines a craftsman basically the same) can’t handle it. I use and recommend Timberwolf blades- they are low tension (a bit thinner than others) and can work wonderfully on these saws.
Just make sure the wheels themselves, guides and throat plate can accommodate it too! You can always run a 1/2” resaw blade too

One bit of advice – if you think you are going to want a riser block do it now before investing in blades.

Have fun!
Grant

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Steve

825 posts in 823 days


#3 posted 01-10-2019 02:06 PM

I run a 1/2” timberwolf resaw blade on my rikon 14” and it works really good. I’m not sure what advantage i’d gain using a 3/4” blade.

i agree with grant on the riser block. decide now if you’ll get it, so you don’t waste money on blades.

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RobHannon

222 posts in 771 days


#4 posted 01-10-2019 02:38 PM

I have a Grizzly 555, looks almost identical to yours. The tension spring that came with it almost bottomed out with a 1/2 blade. Dunno if the frame is stiff enough or not for a 3/4 but I suspect it is. I put in a stiffer spring, I believe from Carter, and tensioning and tracking improved quite a bit. Still not sure I would put a 3/4 blade on it though. The motor only has so much in it.

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bondogaposis

5155 posts in 2592 days


#5 posted 01-10-2019 02:40 PM

I have a vintage Delta 14” bandsaw and have never wanted to run anything wider than a 1/2” blade on it. I believe 3/4” would exceed the capabilities of the machine.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Bill White

5149 posts in 4201 days


#6 posted 01-10-2019 04:04 PM

You don’t need/want a 3/4” blade on that saw. 1/2” tops. That’s all l I use.

-- bill@magraphics.us

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AlaskaGuy

5001 posts in 2549 days


#7 posted 01-10-2019 04:41 PM

Because the machine isn’t built to properly tension a 3/4 blade. I believe there is also an issue with blade thickness. On a14’’ band saw the blade thickness should not exceed .025”. Once you exceed that the blade fatigues much faster from having to bend around the small wheels on 14’’ saw. You have to be aware of the both the width and thickness of your band-saw blades. One of my band saw is a 16’’ and does better with 1/2’’ blades than 3/4 blades.

WHEEL DIAMETER RECOMMENDED BLADE THICKNESS
4-6 Inches .014″
6-8 Inches .018″
8-11 Inches .020″
11-18 Inches .025″
18-24 Inches .032″
24-30 Inches .035″
30 Inches and Over .042″, .050″, .063″

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Derrick

92 posts in 1379 days


#8 posted 01-10-2019 06:26 PM

Well ok then. I guess a 1/2” is all I need.

I do want to purchase the riser kit and the fence before I start investing in blades.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions!

Derrick

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HokieKen

7619 posts in 1379 days


#9 posted 01-10-2019 08:27 PM

I agree with above. I use the 1/2” Woodslicer blades from Highland Woodworking on my 14” Grizzly with riser and don’t see any reason I would need to use a wider blade.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Rich

4013 posts in 830 days


#10 posted 01-10-2019 11:03 PM

A wider blade is going to give you more stability and it will also dissipate heat more efficiently. If your saw can support a 3/4” blade, you will get better results and longer blade life using one.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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klassenl

194 posts in 2899 days


#11 posted 01-11-2019 12:24 AM

I was advised by a bandsaw supplier to run the new saw with the included blade for some time before you pit a riser kit on it. Once you know that the saw runs well then put the riser kit on.

-- When questioned about using glue on a garbage bin I responded, "Wood working is about good technique and lots of glue........I have the glue part down."

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GrantA

958 posts in 1648 days


#12 posted 01-11-2019 12:56 AM



Because the machine isn t built to properly tension a 3/4 blade. I believe there is also an issue with blade thickness. On a14 band saw the blade thickness should not exceed .025”. Once you exceed that the blade fatigues much faster from having to bend around the small wheels on 14 saw. You have to be aware of the both the width and thickness of your band-saw blades.

- AlaskaGuy


Good info, like I mentioned Timberwolf has the only one I found where you can have your cake and eat it too- 3/4 @ 0.025 check it out here, I love it

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Woodmaster1

1090 posts in 2827 days


#13 posted 01-11-2019 01:34 AM

I have the porter cable bandsaw and because I got a carbide tip 3/4” blade for $5 I used once to see how it works. The saw ran fine and cut great. I would recommend the 1/2” resaw blade the 3/4” blade was just too wide for any adjustment on the wheel. I use the porter cable bandsaw with a 1/8” blade and a carter stabilizer and it’s great for cutting a tight radius. I have a 14”Rikon with a carbide tip 3/4” resaw blade that I keep setup for resawing.

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Derrick

92 posts in 1379 days


#14 posted 01-11-2019 03:22 AM

This is some amazing info! I’m excited to finish setting things up. I’ve seen the Alex Snodgrass video on YouTube. I’ll use that as a reference, and then just run the blade that came with it for a while. When it’s time to upgrade, I have plenty of good suggestions right here.

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ArtMann

1220 posts in 1056 days


#15 posted 01-11-2019 03:37 AM

You haven’t mentioned what you are planning to do with your saw but keep this in mind. A wide resaw blade (even 1/2 inch) is completely inappropriate for curve cutting as the minimum radius will be huge. On the other hand, a narrow blade with lots of teeth will take forever to resaw a soft pine 2 X 4. The ideal width, tooth count and blade geometry is highly dependent on what you are cutting.

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