Mortise and Tenon Joints

I’m not sure if I fully understand the question. If the question is whether mortise and tenon joints require additional mechanical fasteners or dowels the answer would be no. They “act as some kind of dowel” hemselves. One part penetrates the other, held together with glue.

-- Alex ----- Bavaria in Germany

Cut the mortise first

Offset dowel’s and screws especially the Russian Kindoffsky Brindle kind are always good.
I use three Kindoffsky on every joint.

McCleod Engineering has some adjustable offset dowel pins

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

Lee Valley carries several sizes and colors of kindoffskys.
They may be copies of the Russian ones, but theirs is made in Canada.
They usually have a blow out sale on them around 4/1 every year.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

But since this isn’t April Fools Day, I’d have to agree with Alex from Bavaria.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

No need for mechanical fastners or dowels. The joint, if it is a goof fit, and glued properly is plenty strong.

I prefer to cut tenons on the table saw. I will use a tenon jig sometimes, just a dado blade other times. I like the repeatability of the TS. Plus I am not much of a hand tool user. As stated above, it is probably best to start with the mortise. I use a benchtop mortiser for the mortises. A drill press, with a fence and some chisels can also produce accurate results. But takes longer in my opinion. Test pieces are always recommended for best results.

Gene, the sale is at the end of this month here in Alberta…

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

Andy,

As long as you cut the mortise in the right place to the right size (cut the mortise first) you can cut the tenon, sneak up on it, and make it fit just fine no matter what method you use. There are almost as many ways to cut m&t joints as there are woodworkers. I prefer to cut mortises with a drill press mortise attachment, others with big bucks use dedicated mortisers, while others prefer routers. No one way is superior to the others, not even chisel and mallet for masochists. I cut tenons on the bandsaw usually, sometimes on the ts. Depends on the situation.

As for your question about reinforcing a m&t joint (called “drawboring”—go to www.popularwoodworking.com and look for artiles on it in their techniques. Schwartz is pretty thorough in his explaination). Usually, if the fit is good and the piece is not going to be stressed (think solid wood outside door) you should be good to go.

Go to www.woodgears.ca for a lot of information on m&t joints. Mathias Wandell has a lot of stuff worth looking at.

Randy, if you would,please, pick up a gross of kindofskys for me next time you’re in LV. Just post them to me as we both know how inexpensive that will be.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

Thanks for all of the in put, I really just wanted to know if you needed to renforce the joint if it is done properly. I have not done much m&t joints so was not sure if I needed to add extra fastners, and I guess it comes down to how stressed will the joint be in the finished piece. Again thanks for all of the input.

-- Nothing is hard once you know how to do it.

”Which is better, cutting tenons by hand or using a tenoning jig on the ts?”

I’d say which ever works better for you.
My efforts at cutting Tenons on my table saws have always ended in tears and bitter recriminations.

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.