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Forum topic by , posted 09-21-2011 06:22 AM 1938 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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,

2387 posts in 3014 days


09-21-2011 06:22 AM

Well, tonight I closed a sale on a nice new home custom.cabinet job, rather large job. We build our own cabinet doors at this time with our shaper. The customer asked me to bid out his 8’ tall interior all pine wood doors. He told me that when you go taller then 6’ on the doors the price triples. So he asked me to build them. I know I can pick up cutters for these doors for a few hundred dollars, that can be covered in the bid.

Any advice is great. Thanks

-- .


6 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#1 posted 09-21-2011 06:39 AM

when making tall doors you can have trouble with warping and twisting. I would finger joint small pieces together for the stiles and rails and then do a 1/4” veneer over them . This makes for a very stable strong door with out wood movement problems

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View doordude's profile

doordude

1085 posts in 2450 days


#2 posted 09-21-2011 06:55 AM

i second;a1jim, or you can order from your local “door shop” and just put a mark up on it. those shaper bits are going to be more than a couple hundred dollars; and material for your trial and error period.

View thedude50's profile

thedude50

3596 posts in 1945 days


#3 posted 09-21-2011 09:10 AM

i used a1jim s advice when i made the 9 foot doors for my house it worked very well they are 5 years old now and very straight door dude could be right too if you get a good bid from a door shop this will help you make your bid and will also maybe give a door guy the job with your markup on hid work make sure you tell the door shop your reselling these and not to jack you around if they want the work because your willing and able to do the job your self in these lean times they should bend over to make you happy

-- Please check out my new stores http://woodratnest.com and http://woodshopstore.com

View ,'s profile

,

2387 posts in 3014 days


#4 posted 09-21-2011 12:32 PM

Thanks for the adv, i will look more ito that. Finger jointing say pine and then veneer both sides with 1/4”. The finished door will be knotty pine.

Would it be fine to use mdf as the core and veneer 1/4” knottt pine on both sides.

-- .

View JohnAndrew's profile

JohnAndrew

5 posts in 1906 days


#5 posted 09-21-2011 09:21 PM

Cope and stick bits with dowel joinery would be an okay alternative to full mortise-and-tenons.

Taunton publishes a book on doors.

View Loren's profile

Loren

8314 posts in 3115 days


#6 posted 09-21-2011 10:06 PM

There’s a reason the price triples. Big doors are a PITA.

You really have to watch your straight edges and get the twist out. Talk
to the installation carpenter and ask him about the tolerances he
feels are workable for 8’ tall doors. Some guys are more skilled than
others.

MDF for exterior door cores? not sure about that. Make sure you don’t get
in trouble there. MDF can be used in exterior applications, but maybe
not the Home Depot stuff. There are some different grades. I’d try
to use a wood core I think.

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