bandsaw problem

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Forum topic by tacodan posted 09-19-2011 06:16 PM 1422 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 3678 days

09-19-2011 06:16 PM

Topic tags/keywords: band saw problem question

I recently got an AMT 14” ~22 y.o. bandsaw. After many hours spent adjusting it, it seemed to run well, however I get this “serrated” effect. It is also strange that it is at a slight angle. It stumped the guys at my local Woodcraft store. Any thoughts? I am using a new 3/8 ” hook tooth. It does the same thing with any blade I put on. Thanks for any words of wisdom… Tacodan

-- tacodan,

9 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5128 posts in 4163 days

#1 posted 09-19-2011 07:12 PM

Hmmmmmm? Are the wheels coplaner?
By the way, my old AMT scroll saw is still workin’ well.


View tom427cid's profile


294 posts in 2674 days

#2 posted 09-19-2011 07:23 PM

I occasionally have had this problem-sometimes I have attributed it to a new blade because eventually it does diminish as the blade is used. However as I think about it I think that what is happening is the blade is “walking” back and forth because perhaps the back bearing is not close enough and the side guides might have a bit to much clearance.
I generally set the side guides to run as close to the teeth as possible and also minimal clearance to the back bearing. Another thing that I do(probably wrong) is to run increased blade tension. If the blade is 1/4” I will tension it closer to 3/8”. I think that doing this helps prevent blade drift when I am doing straight cuts.
Hope this helps.

-- "certified sawdust maker"

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 3398 days

#3 posted 09-19-2011 07:33 PM

Do you have a burr on the back side of the blade?

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View taoist's profile


124 posts in 2694 days

#4 posted 09-21-2011 05:20 AM

I just put new Carter guides on an old (pre1993) Grizzly bandsaw I bought. The Carter installation guide said to let the guides just kiss the blade and then back them off the thickness of a piece of paper. I just pushed the guides in and then adjusted them until nothing moved when I pulled the paper out. A old time feeler gage would probably work even better. Put 2-3 thousandths next to the blade and push the guide in till it touches the feeler gage blade, tighten the guide and pull out the feeler gage. Also, the blade should not be riding on the thrust bearing but just in front of it. Same distance as the guides away.
There should be no flutter or walking of the blade. I agree, it looks like the blade is not tensioned enough.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 3053 days

#5 posted 09-21-2011 05:37 AM

If there’s still an issue after these fine suggestions are exhausted, I’m wondering if there is a wheel out of round or a tire not well seated, and that oscillation is causing the flutter. It would be pretty easy to check this with the blade off.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View rance's profile


4266 posts in 3363 days

#6 posted 09-21-2011 05:58 AM

As long as we are speculating, I’m guessing that the effect is from a harmonic of the blade. I’d guess that a combination of loose blade guides(rollers and blocks), AND not enough tension is causing this.

I too have experienced this but havn’t tried to correct it since I share the use of a bandsaw by many others in the shop. Now there’s a lame excuse for ya. Mine also varies with different species(ie. densities) of wood.
I’ll be interested to see if someone comes up with the cause.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View a1Jim's profile


117337 posts in 3780 days

#7 posted 09-21-2011 05:59 AM

It might be that you need a more aggressive blade like 3 teeth per inch.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Michael1's profile


403 posts in 2863 days

#8 posted 09-21-2011 05:23 PM

My BS was doing this same thing only with a 1/4 inch blade. Other blades weather they were 3/8 or 1/8 didn’t have this problem. I first thought it was the blade manufacturer and tride a different source but had the same problem. To fix it I finally put allot more tension on the blade. To the point When I turned the saw on for the first time, I stood back a bit expecting it to break. That seemed to take care of it. Also I agree with others to check the guide blocks and back bearing. You want them so close that they are basically touching the blade but not causing a drag on the blade.

-- Michael Mills, North Carolina,

View Chainjack's profile


35 posts in 2137 days

#9 posted 04-13-2013 06:41 PM

I was having this problem myself and have figured out what causes the serrated looking cut. If your thrust bearing is too far back the side bearings will hit the teeth and bounce back and forth harmonically. I set all bearings as close as I could to the blade without touching it and the side bearings a little farther back. I am also not running the blade in the center of the wheel but a little farher back. This centers the valley of the teeth. Cuts smoothly now.

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