New 10" RAS - well almost new

NIce find. I started out with a RAS and sold it, then recently bought another. Mines an ‘80’s model. Don’t know how I did with out it. Check out this site http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ some of the Craftsman saws were on the list for a recall. If yours is on it, they’ll send you a new blade guard and table top, free.

-- Tim-- http://www.tmuli.com

Thanks, it not on the list

-- David in Damascus, MD

That saw is considered one of the best (by many) that Sears offered (Radial 100, isn’t it?) I had a slightly later model that wasn’t as well regarded, and it couldn’t be tuned…but a lot of folks have been able to get your model to be very accurate. Tune it carefully (follow the manual) and it should serve you very well. I think it is on the recall list (I had one, and sent the motor in…but it was completely shot), but not for a replacement table/guard. For the older ones, Emerson simply pays $100 for the return of the motor. Regardless, congrats…I’m sure you will find it’s an extremely useful tool. BTW, be sure to get a blade with a negative hook angle (Frued LU91 or similar). Makes those cuts so much nicer…just don’t try to rip cut with it.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

Fred, thank you for the info. Yes, it is a Series 100. I was going to use one of my table saw blades. Once I get this cleaned up, the adjustments are seriously involved, I will get the blade.

-- David in Damascus, MD

Fred – Got the blade, very smooth, clean, and no pull

Thanks again

-- David in Damascus, MD

David – I have that identical saw (no one wanted it after dad died). A new switch, cleaning, and a fresh table top and it runs great. It looks like yours has the same metal cabinet as mine. I use mine primarily for breaking down long stock and leave it set at 90 degrees. I can’t get it to cut very accurate angles and it takes a lot of fiddling around to get the blade resquared so I just use it for straight cuts as it cuts wider stock than my miter saw. This next is very controversial: I push my saw rather than pulling it as most folks do. I didn’t know any better when I first got it running. I like pushing it and feel safer after trying both ways. Now duck cause the feces are fixin to hit the fan with subsequent comments!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

Congrats thats a nice RAS!

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

If you want to use this saw for anything other than rough crosscuts, I highly recommend you find and use a copy of Jon Eakes’, Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw. It contains the best method I’ve found to keep my Craftsman RAS (113.23100) in precision order—all the time. It’s been out of print for some years, but you can download it for $14.95 at http://joneakes.com/products. I would also note that the manual for any Craftsman RAS is horrible and even provides some incorrect information…I found it to be incredibly frustrating as you can’t set the saw up/adjusted properly using their instructions.

-- Jeff, "The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me."

It took me a whole evening but the end result is that at 90 and 45 degrees in both directions, it cuts true. The manual was helpful in that the arm was locked because someone tried taking it apart and didn’t put it back together correctly. The component breakdowns were very helpful.

I will look into the book.

-- David in Damascus, MD

I push too gf… It is safer. :)

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

Rance – Where were you a few months ago when I got crucified for posting my ‘backward’ approach to using the RAS? I was pretty much the ‘Lone Ranger’ when it came to pushing (but I never considered changing!!!). Good for us huh?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

Just as a note, I am buying a manual mitre saw to augment the RAS. I have no desire to have my fingers and toes too close to this spinning blade.

The tip on the negative pitched blade is very nice and reduced the tendency to grap by at least 50%.

-- David in Damascus, MD

I generally don’t care what folk think about me. :P I’ll back you up with “The safe way to use a RAS”. You may get tearout on the top, but pushing is infinitely safer.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

I’m not wanting to start a rant but doesn’t pushing risk making the work want to lift off the table throwing everything backward in an instant?? I’ve owned a RAS for many years. I’m doin it the way they designed it (pull)

I used to rip with my RAS (that is scary stupid) before I got a table saw. Now I just use it to cross cut dados make tenons and cross cut work that is too long for the TS. Very specific uses and I never change it from 90.

A useful tool

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

You are right, that is the risk of pushing. The key is to hold the board down so it don’t do that. I’m not trying to be smart-alek, really. I prefer the push rather than the risk of pulling because with pulling, you risk the blade wanting to climb. If/when it does climb, it is coming right at you like a Lion…. with BIG TEETH. Pushing is not for everyone though.

It seems that the mfrs. got the Sliding miter saw and the RAS push vs pull backwards. I don’t mind pulling the sliding miter because you can raise the blade while pulling if it tries to climb. The RAS will just dig in because it has no place to go. Hope this explains my position. Knowing your tools is key here. Me too on not trying to start anything.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--