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Angle box joints with a jig?

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Forum topic by jusfine posted 09-18-2011 04:33 AM 6262 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jusfine

2405 posts in 2390 days


09-18-2011 04:33 AM

Topic tags/keywords: box joint angles cradle question

Working on a cradle for my new granddaughter, and wanted to join the corners with a box joint, but I tried a few things earlier today and have a roadblock in my head as to how to do it…help?

To make it simpler, instead of a hopper shaped cradle, I could just angle the sides and leave the head and foot of the cradle 90 degrees, if that helps explain it.

Thanks!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."


28 replies so far

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 2515 days


#1 posted 09-18-2011 07:19 AM

Randy,

Are you talking about joining the head and foot at an angle to the bottom with box joints? Could you cut the joints at 90* and a little deep, then miter the ends of the bottom, glue up and cut off what’s proud at the tablesaw or bandsaw? Seems it should work.

Congratulations on the granddaughter. Whatare you using, Peruvian walnut?

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

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mafe

11154 posts in 2553 days


#2 posted 09-18-2011 12:35 PM

http://sawdustmaking.com/Box%20Joint/boxjointjig.html
Sorry to be late.
Big smile,
Mads

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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Tootles

780 posts in 1966 days


#3 posted 09-18-2011 01:34 PM

If I undersatnd correctly, you are trying to do a joint in a corner with compound angles – neither the head / foot nor the sides are at right angles to the base. Is that correct? I suspect you will not get any commercial jig to do that. And my head is spinning a little at what you might have to do to make a jig to do this.

The strange thing is that, providing you cut all your pieces to size according to their outside dimensions, it shouldn’t be too difficult to mark up with a marking guage and a sliding bevel. Any chance you want to do them by hand?

Otherwise, would mortice & tenons work?

-- I may have lost my marbles, but I still have my love of woodworking

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jusfine

2405 posts in 2390 days


#4 posted 09-18-2011 05:41 PM

Thanks Steve, as a matter of fact, I am using Peruvian Walnut... it machines nicely so far.

Attached is a photo I borrowed from a LJ project with box joints for illustration only, perhaps this will give you an idea of what I am after… I know it is a very simple process, but there is something I am missing, I can’t get past the angles…my first trial didn’t work, and maybe I will end up with mortise and tenon joinery…

Thanks Mads, I have a couple home made jigs like the ones you link to.

Tootles, thanks for the advice, I am going back out to the shop again now to see if I can figure it out. Don’t really want to do it by hand, but I just know I am missing something in the setup…

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

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rance

4245 posts in 2624 days


#5 posted 09-18-2011 07:00 PM

On the table saw, to cut the side pieces, set the angle of the blade to slant of the headboard. Then set the miter gauge angle to the slant of the sides. Then use your standard box joint jig but with a modified pin to match your angles.

Do a small sample box to figure out whether the angle is left vs. right. You’ll easilly get it.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2154 days


#6 posted 09-19-2011 04:01 AM

There was an article in Wood magazine that showed how to do this in the last 3 years. Someone who is smarter than me can probably find it. I remember the article had a very simple fix [I think similar to what Rance described but with more specifics].

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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TopamaxSurvivor

17671 posts in 3140 days


#7 posted 09-19-2011 06:01 AM

Justfine, think about it in terms of how it will slide together. The angle of the headboard is the same angle the joint has to be made to level it so it can slide onto the sides. The sides can be made level to slide onto teh head board even though it is angled also. I am sure yoiu can do it if yoiu take a couple pieces and experiment a little in teh manner I have described. Lots of times it is easier to get it yourself than to try to understand the instructions written by others with confusing details.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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mafe

11154 posts in 2553 days


#8 posted 09-19-2011 11:54 AM

As I see it all you need is a primitive jig that can hold it in the right angle and then you can angle it sideways on the miter.
But I look forward to see if you come up with a solution.
Mads

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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mafe

11154 posts in 2553 days


#9 posted 09-19-2011 11:57 AM

http://www.routerworkshop.com/angleboxjt.html

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 2579 days


#10 posted 09-19-2011 12:58 PM

try to look at this maybee it can help you

http://lumberjocks.com/woodklutz/blog/25120

Dennis

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jusfine

2405 posts in 2390 days


#11 posted 09-19-2011 04:59 PM

Thanks everyone, I have played with a few scraps to see how to make it work, and yet with the large pieces (20” x 40”) and using the hopper style shown in the photo above (angled both ways), it is going to be difficult on the tablesaw or router table. It’s like splay and spread on a sawhorse.

Will have to look at alternative joinery, mortise and tenon will be easier for me, and if that doesn’t work, there is always the 15 ga Porter Cable… hopefully not. :)

Will take and post photos of the process as it progresses (not nearly fast enough for my wife).

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

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TopamaxSurvivor

17671 posts in 3140 days


#12 posted 09-19-2011 10:05 PM

It is not as hard as you are thinking. Once you have one of the board’s joints cut at the proper angle, say the end, the sides will be easy as it is just a normal cut on a box joint jig. The side is a trapezoid rather than a square. Only the end boards will have to be jointed on an angle.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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jusfine

2405 posts in 2390 days


#13 posted 09-19-2011 11:44 PM

The ends are trapezoids too, right? Nothing is a right angle to the bottom of the cradle. I know it can be done, maybe just not by me. :(

I have tried a few scraps and they just end up smaller scraps…

Really leaning towards mortise and tenon now.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

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TopamaxSurvivor

17671 posts in 3140 days


#14 posted 09-19-2011 11:47 PM

Yes thay are. Nothing wrong with mortise and tenon.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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TopamaxSurvivor

17671 posts in 3140 days


#15 posted 09-19-2011 11:51 PM

Leave one side of the tenon open or off and you will have a unique box joint ;-))

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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